Here is the sticky from "another place"
When I picked up my 2011 C14 last month, I wasn't sure how best to set up the suspension. I read as much as I could and used a nice write-up to write specific instructions for the C-14. I figured it may help out others in a similar situation. Feedback welcome!
Adjusting Suspension on a Kawasaki Concours 14
The steps provided below were summarized and adapted for the Kawasaki Concours 14 using the excellent instructions provided on the Go Star Racing (How I set up my Motorbike) website:
http://www.gostar-racing.com/information/motorcycle_suspension_set-up.htmI would highly recommend reading through those more-detailed instructions before simply using the distilled instructions I have provided below.
When setting up the suspension, you will adjust the rear preload, front preload, front damping, and finally the rear damping – in this order.
The Kawasaki Concours 14 does not allow for separate damping of compression and rebound. Therefore, a compromise must be made between the two, as explained in the following set-up instructions.
A. Setting the Rear and Front Pre-load
I. Adjusting the Rear Pre-Load
1. Put the bike on the center stand allowing the rear wheel to be suspended in air.
2. Find a point on the bike directly above the rear axle and measure the distance in millimeters from the axle to this point (The point selected is not important. It is only important to be consistent in measuring from both locations). This is the UNLOADED Distance =_____ mm
3. Put the bike back on level ground (off of center stand) and bounce up and down a few times. Re-measure from the two points used previously. This is the NORMAL Distance = _____mm.
4. Sit on the bike in full gear and bounce up and down a few times. Get in your normal riding position with feet on the pegs. Measure the distance between the two points used previously. This is the LOADED Distance = ____mm.
5. Calculations:
Static Sag = UNLOADED - NORMAL = ____mm. This is how much you can lift rear before topping out the suspension. GOAL = 5-10 mm
Rider Sag = UNLOADED – LOADED = ____mm. This is the amount of compression of suspension with bike wt and rider wt. GOAL = 30-40 mm (Ideal – 35mm)
6. Adjust the rear preload by turning the black knob on the left side of the motorcycle near the passenger peg. Turn clockwise to increase preload (reduce amount of Rider Sag) or counter clockwise to decrease preload (increase Rider Sag). Record total Rear Rider Sag = ____mm.
7. Re-check the Static Sag (although not adjustable) to see if it remains between 5-10mm. If greater than 10mm, you may need a stiffer rear spring. If less than 5mm, you may need softer springs for your weight.
8. If Static Sag is less than 5mm, you must compromise and re-adjust the pre-load to give 5mm – to prevent topping out.
9. To record the final pre-load setting, either rotate the pre-load adjustment knob fully in or fully out while counting the number of clicks to reach either extreme. Return the knob to the adjusted setting and record the number of clicks. Preload = ____clicks from max (fully clockwise) or ____ clicks from min (fully counter clockwise).
II. Adjusting the Front Pre-load
1. Method #1: Stationary Static/Rider Sag Method (not recommended)
A. A. Put the bike on the center stand allowing the front wheel to be suspended in air.
B. Find a point on the bike directly above the front axle, along the angle of the fork, and measure the distance in millimeters from the axle to this point (The point selected is not important. It is only important to be consistent in measuring from both locations). This is the UNLOADED Distance =_____ mm
C. Put the bike back on level ground (off of center stand) and bounce up and down a few times. Re-measure from the two points used previously. This is the NORMAL Distance = _____mm.
D. Sit on the bike in full gear and bounce up and down a few times. Get in your normal riding position with feet on the pegs. Measure the distance between the two points used previously. This is the LOADED Distance = ____mm.
E. Calculations:
Static Sag = UNLOADED - NORMAL = ____mm. This is how much you can lift front before topping out the suspension. GOAL = 25-30 mm
Rider Sag = UNLOADED – LOADED = ____mm. This is the amount of compression of suspension with bike wt and rider wt. GOAL = 35-48 mm
F. Adjust the front preload by turning the screws (with rings) on top of the forks. Turn clockwise to increase preload (reduce amount of Rider Sag) or counter clockwise to decrease preload (increase Rider Sag). Record total Front Rider Sag = ____mm.
G. Re-check the Static Sag (although not adjustable) to see if it remains between 25-30mm.
H. If Static Sag is less than 25mm, you must compromise and re-adjust the pre-load to give 25mm – to prevent topping out.
I. Record the final pre-load setting, by either recording the number of rings on the adjustment screw or the length of the screw protruding from the forks. Preload = ____rings or ____mm from _________ to _____________.
2. Method #2 (Recommended “Real World” Method)
A. Wrap cable ties around the smooth part of the forks (clip off excess). Do not make too tight to avoid damaging the rubber seals.
B. Slide ties up against rubber seals and take the bike out for a road test.
C. Ride in normal driving situations making sure to involve cornering, braking and other “typical” driving conditions for the driving you routinely do.
D. Stop and measure the distance of the tie from the bottom of the fork tube.
E. If the ties are less than 10mm from the bottom (bottomed out), increase the pre-load by turning the lined nuts on top of the forks clockwise. If the ties are more than 10mm, decrease the pre-load by turning the ringed nuts counter clockwise. Adjust in small (one line) increments, slide the ties back against the rubber seals, and re-test. Always set the forks at the same setting.
F. Record the final setting. Preload = ____rings or ____mm from _________ to _____________.
B. Setting the Front and Rear Damping
I. Damping – Compression and Rebound (Overview)
A. General Information
-Unlike pre-load, damping really comes down to personal preference – with some safety considerations as well. Overall, it depends on the bike, your riding style, the tires, the tire pressure, the tire shape, etc.
-On the Kawasaki Concours 14, damping is a compromise between compression and rebound, since they can not be adjusted separately.
-If you run out of damping during adjustment (max in or out), you may need to change fork oil for your style of riding.
- Among other things, the bike will handle differently under high and low speeds and wet and dry roads. Damping may need to be adjusted for different conditions.
B. Compression
-The goal is to compress the front in a slow and controlled fashion. The forward weight transfer helps slow the bike quicker.
-If too hard, the bike will skip or chatter over bumps. You can’t compress fast enough, which results in compromised ride and braking – especially in wet conditions.
-If too soft, the bike feels “vague” (poor feedback) and the suspension may bottom out.
-When set correctly, the front compresses in a controlled, predictable manner, which shortens the wheelbase and allows for faster, more predictable, cornering
C. Rebound
-Controls the rate at which the bike “sits-up” after compression. Proper adjustment is critical in corners and turns.
-If set too hard, the rider experiences a lack of feedback and the suspension can continue to “pump down” until the forks are bottomed-out, which is extremely dangerous
-If set too soft, the front-end will pop-up resulting in a loss of traction.
II. Adjusting the Front Damping
- If the front damping is not done correctly, the bike will either sit-up too quickly (too soft) and drift out (washes out) or turn in too quickly (too hard) and feel “wooden.”
1. Method #1 (Simplistic – not recommended)
A. With the bike held level, press on the steering yoke, without holding the brake, and then let go.
B. Observe the distance the yoke travels and the time it takes to return to the starting position.
C. If it takes longer than 1 second to return to the starting position, decrease the rebound (black knob on top of forks counter clockwise).
D. If it takes less than 1 second or goes beyond the starting position, increase the damping (black knob on top of forks clockwise).
E. To record the final front damping setting, either rotate the damping adjustment knob fully in or fully out while counting the number of clicks to reach either extreme. Return the knob to the adjusted setting and record the number of clicks. Front Damping = ____clicks from max (fully clockwise) or ____ clicks from min (fully counter clockwise).
2. Method #2 (“Real World” Method)
A. Take the bike out and find a good road for cornering (Sweeping back roads).
B. Since most accidents happen during cornering, we are going to set-up the suspension for cornering. Goal is to get the bike to enter and exit corners with minimal rocking or see-sawing.
C. When set-up correctly, the rider will be able to brake hard before a turn or at the apex of a turn, let go of brakes, and get back on the throttle without the bike see-sawing (Sit-up or Dive)
D. Ride through a series of turns making note of the bikes tendency to rock or see-saw. Adjust the damping one click at a time (some do this over days of riding) to see how the change affects the handling and comfort (feedback).
E. Once you find the handling and comfort that fits your riding style, record the final front damping setting, by either rotating the damping adjustment knob fully in or fully out while counting the number of clicks to reach either extreme. Front Damping = ____clicks from max (fully clockwise) or ____ clicks from min (fully counter clockwise).
III. Adjusting the Rear Damping
A. Background
a. Compression
- If the rear damping is not done correctly, the bike will be too bouncy (too hard) or will exhibit excessive squatting (too soft) on hard acceleration.
- Some squatting (compression) under acceleration is required to ensure good traction, but too much leads to poor exiting from corners.
- Too soft and the nose will come up and cause the front tire to drift wide on exiting.
- Too hard and the rear wheel will spin and slip (kicked-up)
b. Rebound
- When adjusted correctly, the rear wheel remains in good contact with the road for optimal traction.
- When too soft, the chassis will feel unsettled making the bike wallow and lurch mid-corner
- When too hard, the rear wheel will not sit-up quick enough resulting in the nose up and the bike drifting wide, with a vagueness and loss of traction.
B. Setting Rear Damping on a Concours 14
1. Stand the bike on level ground
2. Press hard on the foot peg nearest to you.
3. The bike should compress equally front and back
4. Adjust the small screw (straight blade) at the bottom of the rear shock (screw faces toward left side). Turn clockwise to increase.
5. Once the bike is set to compress equally, the suspension adjustments are complete.
C. Notes
- These instruction were written by a novice (non-professional) and simply represent my attempt at understanding and applying instructions for adjusting the suspension on a Kawasaki Concours motorcycle.
- An improperly adjusted suspension can result in an accident causing injury or death.
- Adjustments to the suspension should only be made by someone qualified to make such adjustments
- Anyone following the instructions provided in this document is doing so at their own risk.
