Lowering Links

[mturner]

Hi,
I am new to this forum, and new to the Connie.  I just purchased a 2015 Connie in metallic black, never ridden, right off the showroom floor.  Up until now, I have only owned Suzuki's.  My last Suzuki being a Hayabusa.  I'm now in my mid 50's, so I decided it was time for more of a sport touring bike, and this isn't too far from a Hayabusa or ZX14R with saddlebags.  At this point, all my riding was just getting it home, so it is now at 120 miles.

The first thing I noticed was how much harder it is to flat foot than the Hayabusa.  I'm 5'11, but my inseam must be a little short.  My heals were about 1" off the ground.  I looked at the lowering links offered, but I saw no information on the length change of the links.  I did however see one set of links with 3 optional settings of 0", 2", and 4" drop.  I zoomed up on the picture, and determined the hole spacing to be around .535", since the holes are around .480" in diameter.   If .535" is around 2" drop, I figured I needed about .400" to see 1 1/2" of drop.  I drew some new links up in Autocad, and put some 7075-T6 in the CNC, and made some new links to try.  The pictures below are before I painted them black to prevent corrosion.  Turns out that I can now flat foot the bike with no problem.

Here is what I learned about the removal  of the links.   I put the bike on the center stand.  I used a socket to remove the nuts, then pulled the left side link off.  Next you will need to remove the bottom bolt.  I found it to be the hardest because it hits the bottom of the exhaust.  By sliding the top bolt out a little, the link can tilt slightly.  This allows you to pull the bottom bolt out until it hits the bottom of the exhaust pipe, pull down on it and then push it back in a little, which will push the bushing out the other side, just enough to allow the bottom bolt to tilt a little more and clear the exhaust pipe.  The top bolt is actually not too bad.  Just use a board under the rear tire to pry the rear tire up enough so that you can slide the top bolt out over the top of the exhaust pipe.  I never needed to remove the exhaust.  Getting the bolts out took less than 3 minutes.

Putting the new links in was way easier.  The extra length made it easy to get the bottom bolt in without even getting into the exhaust pipe.   I started with the top bolt, and then you just pry the tire up until the bolt went in above the exhaust pipe.  Then adjust the bottom hole alignment by also raising or lowering the rear tire, and the bolt will just slide in.  Then I just torqued the nuts to 44 ft. lbs., took it off the center stand, and done.

Michael

[maxtog]

Welcome!

A little more than 1" is probably the maximum safe lowering of the suspension or you could have major problems with clearance later.  You have been warned!  1.5" might barely be OK, but it is pushing it (depends on preload and your weight). Remember to lower the front the same amount.

http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=260.0

[mturner]

Even though the calculated amount was 1.5", I believe the actual drop was around 1" at the seat, and maybe only 1.25" at the rear tire.  I will be cautious until I see where it really stands.

Thanks, Michael

[Classvino]

... until I see where it really stands.

(best segue ever...)

You may need to modify your stands - it'll be much more difficult to get up on the centrestand when lowered, and it may sit a little too vertical on the sidestand. I have links that drop the back end about 1.25 - 1.5 inches, and I haven't mod'd my stands yet, so I have to be extra careful where I park - if the road is crowned, sometimes the extra height of the pavement on the left side of the bike makes the bike very unstable - almost completely vertical - afraid even the wind from vehicles passing on the street might blow it over...  I hardly ever park on the side of a street anymore.

Jamie

[mturner]

So far the bike has only been parked on a concrete floor since the modification.  The bike still leans fairly well, but I can see how the side of the road could be a big problem.  When I was a teenager, I got pulled over for speeding on my GS550-L.  I parked the bike on the shoulder, and while I was standing with the officer, the bike fell over to the right.  Since problems can occur in stock condition, obviously I need to monitor things more closely for a while.

When I first got home with my new Connie, I went to park it on the dirt drive in front of my house.  As I leaned the bike against the stand, it just kept pushing a hole.  I walked the bike back a step and found a firm spot.  My bike actually leaned a little more on the side stand than I'm used to.  Now it may be fine, time will tell.  I may modify it slightly, but a kickstand plate is also handy on softer ground.

As far as the center stand is concerned, I rarely use it.  I did put it on the center stand with ease before the link change, but have not tried since.  I know I can do it by pulling onto a 2x6 before lifting it, or with help from my brother.  Thanks to everyone for feedback on things to look out for.

Michael

[556ALPHA]

Very nice!   I sent you a PM. 

[connie_rider]

Michael, I really salute your reverse engineering to determine the height of the new links. Well done..
Really wish I had a CNC!    I'm glad you got it to the height you wanted.
The next step should be to also lower the front and set the spring sag..

After I lowered my bike I shortened my side and center stands.
Shortening the center stand makes it far easier to get the bike on the stand, and the stand is a must for tire changes...
Can send you the info if you want.

You can install a foot on the side stand to prevent it from pushing into the ground.
With your machine you can easily make a foot, or they can be bought in several places.
NOTE: The Connie is a heavy beast and you still need to always find good firm ground...

Congrats on your new toy. Come ride with us.

Ride safe, Ted

[mturner]

Ted,

Can you explain what you mean by a foot on the side of the stand?  I was thinking about making a plate that would go under it.  I saw where one guy had a kickstand plate that was tied to a string.  He stored it in the glove box on the left.

I is true that I can no longer put the bike on the center stand without a 2x6 under the rear tire, or help from another person.   This really doesn't bother me since I will only put it on the center stand for tire changes or similar needs.

Where are you from?

Michael

[connie_rider]

I'm from Houston.

The side stand foot I'm suggesting attaches to the bottom of the side stand with a couple of screws.
Here is one from Hong Kong..  http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gray-Side-Stand-Foot-Plate-Kickstand-Pad-For-KAWASAKI-GTR1400-08-11-ZX-14R-11-12-/302053711637?hash=item4653cddf15:g:0soAAOSw0UdXwBuF&vxp=mtr
I think several in the club have this one.

The one that I have is; steel, 2 5/8 Dia. 5/16 thick, pocket is 3/16 deep, 2 screws holding it on.
Thinking, you could make one out of SS with your CNC that would look good and never rust.

If you decide to do the center stand, I have photo's of where to cut and weld {to do it yourself}.
 (I bought a used one on Ebay and modded it...)

The Club National starts on Monday in Missouri. (June 12 - 16)
If your anywhere near Lake of the Ozarks, come ride with us!!

Ride safe, Ted

[mturner]

Ted,

I used to live in Burnet, TX.  I have ben to Houston a few times.  Right now, I could really go for some Pappasitos Cantina fajitas.  Even some of their stuffed bacon wrapped shrimp.  We have customers in your area that use our crankshaft balancers.  www.crankbalancer.com.  I live up in the mountains.  Cloudcroft,NM

Michael

[connie_rider]

I've been to both.
Used to ride dirt bikes in Cloudcroft.
  {There was 1,573,272 rocks in the first mile, and then it got rougher!}
Would love to talk to you about balancing a non-counterbalanced crankshaft.
  (Model T Ford)

Ride safe, Ted

[KawaRobby]

Lowered my Connie 1" and did nothing to the front, ridden moderately on the Snake without issue, ride two up without issue but of course I don't jump many curbs either. Still put her on the center stand but need to grab rear canyon cages with both hands and rock her for momentum. Installed a shortened aluminium side stand to keep lean angle. Must warm that others are right about her being heavy on the stand, warm weather, asphalt, and an unaided side stand equal a tip over after a while!

[mturner]

At this point, I have not lowered the front either.  I like the way it handles just fine.  I have not had to modify the side stand, but would have to modify it if I ever choose to lower the front.  I have seen no clearance issues when riding with my wife, but when she rode with me, there was no luggage.

I would be happy to discuss the balancing of the model T crank.

Michael

[connie_rider]

If you opt to lower the front, I can send instructions to shorten the center stand.

On the T crank, I had it (and everything else in the engine) balanced several years ago.
As you build crank balancing equipment, I'd like to talk with you about how it is done, and you thoughts on a non counter balanced crank.

By the way, we were not after power.
The balancing work was done to make it smoother, and last longer.
Sorta a project to see if we could do it.
Finished the engine, and never put it in the car.
The original is doing fine, and only 104 years old..

Ride safe, Ted