It all started out so well

[maxtog]

Yeah, but if the current is enough to blow a 30amp fuse immediately, what's it going to do to the bulb?

Doesn't work quite that way.  The light has its own resistance and will pull only the number of amps it needs to operate. The bulb will just light as long as there is power.  Now, if you tried to feed it more than 12V, it would get brighter and brighter and eventually blow... but the voltage is set by the battery, around 12V.

[VirginiaJim]

use two bulbs

I like the way you think!

[Tree]

Frustration about not having the time to tend to this has been my enemy.  Totally threw me off.  OK, some deep breaths and some time to think leads me to the next step(s).  Loads that are supplied by this circuit include the SLU, Starter Motor, Regulator / Rectifier, and fuse boxes 2 & 3.  Interconnecting Wiring (ICW) is always on the list.  The Starter Motor isn't fused here so I don't suspect it.

I'll take an Ohmmeter to this later tonight.

[B.D.F.]

Light it. Or I could have said 'turn it on' but that would have required an 'Easy Boys!' so I did not write it that way. Saves time..... 

How much current is 'available' in a circuit makes no difference because it is the voltage that 'drives' (literally) the current. For example, all around your house you have many different lamps and light bulbs that are all different wattages but they all have at least 15 amp circuit breakers. A 100 watt bulb 'draws' or uses less than 1 amp of current (voltage X current = wattage..... close enough for our purposes) and yet you can put it on a 15 amp, 20 amp or even 100 amp breaker and it will not allow any more current (amps) to flow than the voltage 'driving' that current, all of which is 115 volts at your house. Well, at least it was before you bought that ape hangar, no idea what it might be now..... 

The reason the fuse is opening (again, I could say blowing but.....) is because there is more than 30 amps of current flowing in that circuit, and through the fuse. Take out the fuse and replace it with an incandescent lamp and current will flow through that, which will then 'light up'. Makes it very easy to see when you find the problem; take fuses out of individual circuits and if one of them is the problem, the instant you remove the fuse, the light will go out (no more current flowing to light the bulb). It really is a great way to diagnose the problem in this case and I can say that 'cause it was not my idea. 

Brian

Yeah, but if the current is enough to blow a 30amp fuse immediately, what's it going to do to the bulb?

[Tree]

Light it. Or I could have said 'turn it on' but that would have required an 'Easy Boys!' so I did not write it that way. Saves time.....

The reason the fuse is opening (again, I could say blowing but.....) is because there is more than 30 amps of current flowing in that circuit, and through the fuse. Take out the fuse and replace it with an incandescent lamp and current will flow through that, which will then 'light up'. Makes it very easy to see when you find the problem; take fuses out of individual circuits and if one of them is the problem, the instant you remove the fuse, the light will go out (no more current flowing to light the bulb). It really is a great way to diagnose the problem in this case and I can say that 'cause it was not my idea. 

Brian

I've used lights before and they provide an excellent visual indicator.  What I use more often is an ohmmeter which sets off a noise maker.  I used it a lot when commissioning installations for Boiler Controls.  The Make-Break-Make-Break is better for me when I can hear it.  That being said, and, if I can, I prefer troubleshooting electrical stuff with energy applied which makes using a light so appealing.  So I will give that a try.  Sometimes the circuit has to be dead for safety reasons or there is a risk of damaging other components in the process - hence using the ohmmeter or Meggar.  Thanks Brian.

[B.D.F.]

You are right on track! Given that there are only four paths, you should be able to isolate the first leg very quickly.

Just a guess but I would suspect the voltage regulator right off, though that is of no consequence because it will be quick to check them all and find out which one is really the culprit.

As I said before, you are lucky this is a 'hard' short (Boys!) because intermittent electrical shorts and opens are often quite challenging to find.

Brian

Frustration about not having the time to tend to this has been my enemy.  Totally threw me off.  OK, some deep breaths and some time to think leads me to the next step(s).  Loads that are supplied by this circuit include the SLU, Starter Motor, Regulator / Rectifier, and fuse boxes 2 & 3.  Interconnecting Wiring (ICW) is always on the list.  The Starter Motor isn't fused here so I don't suspect it.

I'll take an Ohmmeter to this later tonight.

[B.D.F.]

Yes, an audio device will work as well but <may> get annoying listening to the buzzer depending on how long it takes you to find the problem. A light or OHM meter buzzer will remain on continuously until you find and open whatever is causing the short. That is why I think the light is the better, easier on you, way to go. But both will work equally well of course.

As for the thanks, not my idea- it was Tweeter55 who threw that one in. Thank him. And a fantastic idea it is too I think, so maybe send him some money, or at least an electronic kiss on the cheek. 

Brian

I've used lights before and they provide an excellent visual indicator.  What I use more often is an ohmmeter which sets off a noise maker.  I used it a lot when commissioning installations for Boiler Controls.  The Make-Break-Make-Break is better for me when I can hear it.  What I didn't even consider was "replacing the fuse" with the meter/light.  What a concept!  Thanks Brian.

[Tree]

Yes, an audio device will work as well but <may> get annoying listening to the buzzer depending on how long it takes you to find the problem. A light or OHM meter buzzer will remain on continuously until you find and open whatever is causing the short. That is why I think the light is the better, easier on you, way to go. But both will work equally well of course.

As for the thanks, not my idea- it was Tweeter55 who threw that one in. Thank him. And a fantastic idea it is too I think, so maybe send him some money, or at least an I hope electronic kiss on the cheek. 

Brian

I hope Tweeter55 doesn't mind that I didn't mention his suggestion.  No slight intended, just an oversight.

[B.D.F.]

I think  you did mention his suggestion and complimented it, just made a small mistake and put it in the proverbial 'wrong mailbox' by using my name instead of  his. It is tough to keep up with so many forum 'handles' and what names they go with, especially when the same people often use different forum names on different forums. I cannot speak for the person but I cannot imagine he would be cranky over that.

And you did a  nice thing in trying to smooth out any feathers that may have been ruffled. If all of us did that- trying to be pleasant, respectful and corny though it is 'act like gentlemen and gentlewomen', the world would be a better place. It sounds like a joke but a LOT of the really bad events we read about or see in the news start out as nothing more than bad manners.....

OK, now that all is well and serene on the ZGGTR forum, GET OUT THERE and FIND THE PROBLEM...... the rest of us are waiting!!!

 

Brian

I hope Tweeter55 doesn't mind that I didn't mention his suggestion.  No slight intended, just an oversight.

[tweeter55]

As for the thanks, not my idea- it was Tweeter55 who threw that one in. Thank him. And a fantastic idea it is too I think, so maybe send him some money, or at least an electronic kiss on the cheek. 

Brian

They don't call me 'sparky' for nothing. Glad to be of some assistance. I am waiting with baited breath to hear read what the problem is was.

[Tree]

I took a resistance reading on the White wire, the one in the connector on the starter relay.  It was a short to the chassis.  I disconnected the Regulator / Rectifier (RR), after removing the rear wheel to get a better grip on the damn thing.  Shitloads of road grit poured out of both connectors.  I re-read the resistance of the white wire and saw Megohms.  That was almost enough to say that the RR was the culprit but I wanted to do a couple more things.  I left the RR disconnected and restored the starter relay and battery.  The instrument cluster responded and the Speedo and Tach needles cycled when I connected the ground lead.  I liked that.  I took the battery out again and noted the 30A fuse was still good.  I liked that more.  I then re-connected the RR and applied power . . .  the 30A fuse blew.  I replaced the fuse and disconnected the RR and then re-applied power once more.  The instrument cluster responded and the fuse was good when I removed the battery to check it.

I did take resistance readings of the RR per the tech manual.  I didn't find anything overtly wrong with the readings but they weren't consistent.  The resistance ranges in the tech manual seemed arbitrary at best.

I will replace the RR and be back on 2 wheels soon.  I like that part the best.

I haven't started to look around the interweb for a new RR yet.  If anyone knows of a place that has them let me know.

[Hooligan]

Glad you managed to sort it out. Well done Bud!!

[Tree]

$270 at Bike Bandit.  Are there better deals out there?

[gPink]

google the part number...see if it comes up for any other apps

[556ALPHA]

$197 at Partzilla

[Tree]

New
PartShark - 270
Dealercostparts - 270
cyclepartsoutlet - 251
2wheelpros - 260

Used
ebay - 51-75-85

I'm leaning for getting a used one from somewhere.  It seems that I can replace it up to 5 times until I get one that will last another 40K miles.

[Tree]

$197 at Partzilla

That looks good too.  The part number search has shown a ton of variations.  Even with the "-0744" I am looking at regulators for lawn mowers.  WTF?

[gPink]

is it a kawasaki mower? 

try amazon... https://www.amazon.com/REGULATOR-RECTIFIER-21066-0008-21066-0714-21066-0744/dp/B017SZUIQA

[VirginiaJim]

I've heard of the RR having issues in the UK due to corrosion.  How did the bottom of it look?  Also, I did make a bet with myself that it might be the culprit.  Easy to say now, of course.

[gPink]

what did the winner get?