Battery Trickle Charger -Accessory Socket

[Surf Concours]

Is it safe to connect a battery trickle charger into the fairing accessory socket?

Thanks
V/R
Kevin

[Poseidon]

I’m interested in hearing what everyone has to say on this as well. Most trickle chargers range between .75 amp and 2 amp. The socket should be capable of handling at least 5 amp. My personal opinion is it will be fine. I pick one of those chargers up also and plan on using it if I ever go an extended time without riding. Hasn’t happened yet, so I haven’t tried it.

[lather]

Probably safe but it won't charge your battery. The accesory circuit is off when the ignition is off.

[Poseidon]

Probably safe but it won't charge your battery. The accesory circuit is off when the ignition is off.

Good point. May have to do some wiring to make it a constant power source vs keyed.

[maxtog]

It is not an ideal point for a battery tender, mostly because it is ignition-driven.

"Battery Tender" comes with a pigtail that is easy to connect to the circuits behind the battery doors, and the cable can come out in a little rubber area and hang there, not in the way.  I don't have the best photo, since it chops off where it comes out, but you can see most of it in this photo.

[lather]

This works for me:

[maxtog]

This works for me:

  That is exactly the spot I was showing in my post (your first photo).  Have been using it for several years without any issue.  Doesn't get in the way, no drilling, no damage.

[lather]

The second picture is a BMW tight powerlet socket that I use to power my radar detector. The OEM 12v receptacle does not fit well with mother cig type plugs and the radar detector would loose connection at avery bump or hard acceleration.

[maxtog]

I have a Powerlet connector on my risers (it came with that option) which I used for the GPS.  It is an amazingly robust, solid, and vibration-proof connector.  Although it is still a bit large.  Now it is unused....

Now that my Zumo died AGAIN several months ago, I finally just switched to using a "X" mount, my phone, and usb power to the dash.  I wasn't going to drop $700 on something that would last only a few years then likely die again and yet have only a fraction of the power/flexibility of my $170 phone (Moto G5 Plus from Costco- what a steal!)

[Surf Concours]

Let's say the Ignition was turned On, and you connected the battery charger until the headlight turned On, then the battery would be fully charged safely?

[just gone]

Let's say the Ignition was turned On, and you connected the battery charger until the headlight turned On, then the battery would be fully charged safely?

So you want to leave the ignition on until the battery is charged from a trickle charger through the accessory socket?

 No I wouldn't do that. Depending on the charger it might not keep up with the demand of the circuitry running with just the ignition on, and once the glove box latch starts buzzing (~5minutes GenII) to remind you that the ignition is still on the power drain will go up more. In an emergency with a larger charger and if the current is below 5 amps (accessory fuse is only 5 amps/GenII) it might work in theory, but the glove box latch servo might be worn out before the battery is charged (I've never left mine on long enough to find out if it times out, or if it just keeps buzzing).

If your bike is that desperate for charging, it would be better to just remove the battery and put it on a charger. Then put it back in the bike when charged.

[maxtog]

and once the glove box latch starts buzzing (~5minutes GenII) to remind you that the ignition is still on the power drain will go up more.

Interesting.  I have never heard of this feature.  I even just searched the manual and can't find anything about it.

[just gone]

In the 2010 Owners manual:

Do not leave the motorcycle without
starting the engine when the ignition
switch is turned to “ON”. The solenoid
valve of the electric lock repeats
“ON/OFF” to prevent the battery from
running down.

I think it's been timed at 5 minutes, before it starts. It isn't real loud, but it gets your attention in the garage when you are working on something on the bike if there aren't other noises happening.

Still even if you disconnected the glove box solenoid, I don't think you should try and charge the battery the way Surf C' was referring to....but I guess it might work. 

[B.D.F.]

If the battery was dead or close to it, you could not turn on the ignition in the first place. So that will not work if the battery really needs charging.

And as others have said, the glovebox solenoid will clatter and use a lot of current turning ON and OFF continuously, plus all of the running lights, including the front incandescent types, run any time the ignition is on so the battery charger would have to provide enough current for all of those things and then an additional amount to actually charge the battery.

That said, you might be able to do it that way but I would think the glove box solenoid would burn up and cost more to replace than putting a whip on the battery that would charge even a dead battery anyway. Just my opinion but it seems like  one of those things that will take some effort to [not do] the correct way.

Brian

Let's say the Ignition was turned On, and you connected the battery charger until the headlight turned On, then the battery would be fully charged safely?

[maxtog]

In the 2010 Owners manual:

Cool, yep, there it is.  I even skimmed that page and missed it (plus was using wrong search terms).

I think it's been timed at 5 minutes, before it starts. It isn't real loud, but it gets your attention in the garage when you are working on something on the bike if there aren't other noises happening.

Well, the purpose of it cycling is to de-energize the locking (return to locked) to save power.  It shouldn't be a buzzing and is not an alert of any type.  It should just be a click every now and then, yes?   I have had my ignition on for 5+ min while near it and never heard it at all (but my electronic lock is intact and does work properly).

Seems kinda funny, actually.... as if the small solenoid would use that much power (compared to everything else) that it has to be a priority to turn it off.  Still, not a bad idea.

Still even if you disconnected the glove box solenoid, I don't think you should try and charge the battery the way Surf C' was referring to....but I guess it might work. 

I would never do that.

[just gone]

Well, the purpose of it cycling is to de-energize the locking (return to locked) to save power.  It shouldn't be a buzzing and is not an alert of any type.

If that were the case they would simply turn it off instead of cycling it on and off rapidly. The rapid on and off function is not actually a buzzer, but it gets your attention so I think they meant it to be an alert.

[maxtog]

If that were the case they would simply turn it off instead of cycling it on and off rapidly. The rapid on and off function is not actually a buzzer, but it gets your attention so I think they meant it to be an alert.

I see your point.  Or perhaps I hear it...