MC Enterprises Concours Canyon Cage Discussion

[maxtog]

I heard some folks were having some issues of some kind with MCE, has that cleared up?

We have never had any reported problems with MCE (not that I saw or remember, anyway).  Quite the opposite.  Ryan actually used this forum to help design the Canyon Cages (which was fun), then offered a discounted group-buy, communicates well, and has always stood behind the products.  I have been impressed.

[Rhino]

We have never had any reported problems with MCE (not that I saw or remember, anyway).  Quite the opposite.  Ryan actually used this forum to help design the Canyon Cages (which was fun), then offered a discounted group-buy, communicates well, and has always stood behind the products.  I have been impressed.

+1 My experience with 2 different purchases from MCE have been fantastic. And the quality of their products is 1st class all the way.

[VirginiaJim]

I haven't had any issues with mine..

[AlbertaDoug]

I haven't had any issues with mine..

 
Are they covered in dust or do you blow it off every couple weeks! .?

[VirginiaJim]

Well, I actually looked at the box yesterday.  But I do have the rear set installed.

[maxtog]

I haven't had any issues with mine..

Yep, yours are still in a box!

I had no issues with the company or Ryan.  But I have developed some rust on parts of the chromed bars and bolts (mine are not the black powdercoat like most of those sold), which is surprising (since I keep them generally clean, undamaged, waxed, and the bike in a Cycle Shell when not ridden).  Of course it has been 3.25 years now, but I would typically not expect rust this soon.

[Ron Dawg]

Thanks guys. Wrong vendor. Ryan sounds like a stand up guy.

[PolterGeist]

I just installed the MC cages on the front and rear of my 2014.. Only issue that I see is that on the right hand side rear, the end cap of the cage contacts the bolt head on the exhaust... Is this normal or did I bugger something up?

[Rhino]

I just installed the MC cages on the front and rear of my 2014.. Only issue that I see is that on the right hand side rear, the end cap of the cage contacts the bolt head on the exhaust... Is this normal or did I bugger something up?

Looks like non OEM exhaust. On my 2010 it doesn't do this.

I stand corrected. I just went out and looked. Same thing on my 2010. I just barely touches.

[BWDenver]

I installed the cages on my 2012 C-14 and had significant issues.  Glad I did, but it was a hassle. 

When I screwed the forward bolt in it got tight then froze.  Could not get it out.  For the like of of me I could not figure out what the issue was.  The dealer picked it up and found the issue.  The replacement bolts for the fwd mount were chrome plated, and just a touch larger than the OEM hole. 

The dealer used a wire wheel to take the plating off and the other bolt went in fine.  For the bolt that froze they had to tap the hole for a bigger bolt.  Very poor engineering.  I spent a number of years as an Aircraft Maintenance Officer in the Army, I have never seen such a dumb idea as plating the bolt and making it too big.

I had heard a lot of great reviews on this product and was profoundly disappointed with some of the parts supplied, and about $150 lighter in the wallet to fix an issue that should not have happened in the first place had they not plated the bolts.

Bryan

[Deziner]

I've been using chrome plated bolts, nuts and every type of hardware on everything from p.o.s cars to $100k motorcycles, never had an issue. I've been making custom parts and having them chrome plated for over 20 years. Never an issue.

 Stainless steel, more problems than I can count. I have no clue as to why the general public fails to use Anti-Sieze. Had bunches of folks say "Anti-Sieze isn't necessary" or "You shouldn't have to use that stuff". Whatever. Old timey mechanics use the $h!t out of it because it works and because of all the work we had to do that could have been avoided by one cents worth of the stuff.

YMMV

[kzz1king]

As an owner and wrencher of some classic mc's I agree. Steel bolts and aluminum cases can be a nightmare. I never sieze on almost all fasteners. A tube lasts a long time and is cheap insurance.

I've been using chrome plated bolts, nuts and every type of hardware on everything from p.o.s cars to $100k motorcycles, never had an issue. I've been making custom parts and having them chrome plated for over 20 years. Never an issue.

 Stainless steel, more problems than I can count. I have no clue as to why the general public fails to use Anti-Sieze. Had bunches of folks say "Anti-Sieze isn't necessary" or "You shouldn't have to use that stuff". Whatever. Old timey mechanics use the $h!t out of it because it works and because of all the work we had to do that could have been avoided by one cents worth of the stuff.

YMMV

[turbojoe78]

I installed the cages on my 2012 C-14 and had significant issues.  Glad I did, but it was a hassle. 

When I screwed the forward bolt in it got tight then froze.  Could not get it out.  For the like of of me I could not figure out what the issue was.  The dealer picked it up and found the issue.  The replacement bolts for the fwd mount were chrome plated, and just a touch larger than the OEM hole. 

The dealer used a wire wheel to take the plating off and the other bolt went in fine.  For the bolt that froze they had to tap the hole for a bigger bolt.  Very poor engineering.  I spent a number of years as an Aircraft Maintenance Officer in the Army, I have never seen such a dumb idea as plating the bolt and making it too big.

I had heard a lot of great reviews on this product and was profoundly disappointed with some of the parts supplied, and about $150 lighter in the wallet to fix an issue that should not have happened in the first place had they not plated the bolts.

Bryan

Because of reading this thread when it was running, I took extra care in fitting the supplied hardware when installing my Canyon cages two weeks ago.

I installed the side bag guards first and the left side went on without a problem.  On the right side I could not get the nut on the bolt that goes through the foot peg threaded enough to go through the nylon of the nut, it would go on only about 2 turns and then would seize up.  I thought I may have cross threaded it so I cut the first 4 threads off and tried again, only to get the same result.

I called MCE and explained what happened and they sent another nut and bolt out to replace the bad ones.

On the fronts, after removing the first front motor bolt I ran a tap through the hole to clean the old thread locker out and tried to run the new hardware through the hole.  It threaded in less than 1/2" and started to tighten up more than I felt comfortable with so I removed it and tested the OEM bolt.  The OEM bolt threaded right in smoothly with just my fingers so I ran the new bolt through a die to see how it fit.  I could not run the new hardware through the die with out putting it in a vice to hold it.  After running the bolt through the die 3 times I tried it in the motor mount and was able to get it all the way in using mild force with a ratchet.

When I got to the other side, I ran the new bolt through the die before even trying to install it.  When running it through the first time, quite a bit of the chrome coating was cut off by the die.

I would recommend that anyone trying to install MCE's Canyon cages or side bag guards check the supplied hardware before attempting to install the guards.

[ShadowJack]

Just bought a set for mine and will pay attention (and read again) when I mount them. Also bought the pegs and mounting hardware.

[smokin]

Fitted a set of front and rear MC Enterprises Canyon Cages last month to my GTR1400.No dramas fitting them. Ran a tap through the engine mount and a die nut over the new mounting bolts than made sure the new mounting bolts fitted easily prior to bolting the cage in position.
Also modified the faring/cowl finning to allow removal of the fairing/cowl without having to remove the canyon cage.
Outstanding product, looks awesome and more importantly extremely functional.

[MMMOTORCYCLE]

Just received my cages. The cages themselves look very well made...wish I could say the same for the hardware!

Both 10mmx60 bolts have what looks like rust about the 2nd thread down...will be getting new bolts in the am.


The rear engine bolt/shaft? Appears to be raw steel? Anyone else have concerns over time with rust/corossion?

Instructions are a little lacking. Some pics would help.

Instruction #12 ends with "..begin threading the special step nut and its 5/8" x 1/32" washer onto the protruding threads until" ...UNTIL WHAT??

Ryan, can we please get a confirmation on torque specs. I received an email from Teri stating 30-32 lb for the main bolts for both the canyon cages and rear guards. This contradicts what I have seen here and what you have previously posted.

Thanks
MichaelMichaelMotorcycle

EDIT-I heard beck from Ryan who confirmed to torque the 10mm engine bolts to 44 ft/lbs and 18-20 ft/lbs for the rear guards.

Also, whoever suggested warming the bike up first before trying to loosen the loctite on the engine bolts is a genius...

2 suggestions to make life easier. Tape up the opening to protect them and get one of those ratcheting box end 5/8" wrench.

[VirginiaJim]

I'm not sure that Ryan still monitors this thread on any regular basis.  If you have questions/concerns, you need to contact him directly.

[smokin]

One important action to do regarding the bolts supplied for the engine mount, run a die over them as I can tell you they wont screw in without binding up into the engine. Also make sure you clean out all the old original Loctite from the engine mount threaded holes before fitting the supplied bolts.
The nut which goes on the bolt which goes through the rear mount will not be flush with the end of the bolt when tensioned up , the bolt will be a few mm counter sunk when the nut is tightened completely.
I sprayed the rear bolt with Mercury engine corrosion protector spray, coats the metal and stops corrosion. 

[Eupher]

Just bought a set of front cages for my 2012 Connie. Read with interest the comments concerning the hardware. I'll be running a die over the bolts and/or strip off the plating with a wire wheel.

Will be doing the rears, but I first want to get the fronts on. I don't run with the panniers on 99% of the time anyway.

[Conrad]

Just bought a set of front cages for my 2012 Connie. Read with interest the comments concerning the hardware. I'll be running a die over the bolts and/or strip off the plating with a wire wheel.

Will be doing the rears, but I first want to get the fronts on. I don't run with the panniers on 99% of the time anyway.

The rears look really stupid without the bags on.