Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => Accessories and modifications - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: maxtog on May 13, 2011, 04:49:01 PM
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The thread for "lowering" the C-14- be it seat, bike, or both....
OK, I can't stand that I put all that work into collecting and posting my lowering info and it was all lost after the forum crash. So, I have pulled back info from the Google Cache and three key messages (out of 9 pages worth) from the previous forum thread and a current status right at the end. Lots of people posted their valuable info and questions and answers that are obviously not posted here right now. Hopefully that info will stick around in the Cache for someone wanting to see what others did, their concerns, their criticism (and my replies to such).
It is my hope that the information will be useful to other people facing the same bike-height/seat-height challenges.
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[ 3/20/2011 MESSAGE RE-POSTED FROM GOOGLE CACHE]
Hi! I have been lurking for months, reading hundreds of valuable postings here as I decide if I am ready to purchase a 2011 Concours 14. I must say, you are a great group of people and appreciate the info and experiences you all share. I am an experienced, 40's rider, who is on his second bike, which is a 2000 ZRX-11. My ZRX is at the end of its life with quite a bit of carb issues that can't seem to be repaired (long story omitted). I like powerful, quiet, smooth, upright-seating, modern, 4 cyl bikes (which throws out "cruisers") so the Concours is at the top of my list.
That aside, this is finally my first posting. I am starting a new "lowering" thread because similar ones are mostly old. Please forgive me if that is not the best practice. Plus, forgive the length of this posting, but I am trying to be thorough :)
The only major thing holding me back from joining you as a Concours owner is my body. I am not a big person, at 5'7", 155lbs. Even though I am [barely] average male height for my age bracket, I have dis-proportionally short legs. When I sit, I am the height of someone 5'11. But when I stand, that quickly disappears. Unfortunately, bikes of the non-cruiser type are not terribly compatible with short legs.
The body measurement that matters with bike height is "true/actual/anatomical" inseam. This is not the same as a clothing pants inseam, which is notoriously inaccurate. You can determine a true inseam with the "clipboard in the crotch" method (here is an example: http://www.precisiontandems.com/inseam.htm (http://www.precisiontandems.com/inseam.htm) (you can do it alone, although it is tricky)) and mine is 30". My typical clothing inseam is 26.5".
I sat on a Concours (several times) at the dealer. Wearing tennis shoes, I can just barely touch my tippie toes on both feet to the floor. Wearing my riding boots, I can touch toes more solidly (but not ball of foot at all). The Concours is a much larger bike than the ZRX, so the amount of foot ground contact is very important for control (while stopped, after a foot slip, trying to back up, leverage for recovering a tip, etc).
There appears to be only three ways to address the issue- lowering the suspension, lowering the seat, and/or wearing "platform" boots. My boots are already 1/2" at the ball and 1.75" at mid heel. I would be willing to try and add SOME to that, but a guy wearing platform shoes is a bit... well... embarrassing.
Seat lowering is a no-brainer- it doesn't affect the bike in any negative way. So I am looking at the low-height Sargent seat. But that will only lower the riding position by 1.5" (if you believe the materials). Obviously not low enough for my size.
So I am left with also lowering the actual bike. I am looking at the Muzzy lowering links for the back (supposedly a 1.5" rear lowering) and dropping the fork tubes in the front (by using the Helibars risers for clearance). I know this is controversial, but I don't see that I would have much choice.
Unfortunately, that is, at most, around only 3". Not sure that will be enough. I lowered my old ZRX in a similar way (collapsed rear spring coils by de-tempering/heat, lowered front tubes, and cut the seat down) but it was never quite enough and the Concours is even taller stock height (1" taller!), bigger, and heavier.
So, if you have some similar issues, any questions you can answer would be extremely helpful in assisting me with my decisions (and hopefully other people monitoring the thread now and in the future):
1) Are you leg-length challenged? What is your true/anatomical inseam (see above to compute it)?
2) How did you address your height issues? What are your reasons?
3) Did you use the Muzzy lowering links? What is the exact drop of the rear? Did you use some other links or method?
4) How much have you ever lowered the front? In what way? How far did you ultimately lower? How did it affect your handling with various drops?
5) If you lowered, how did you address the kickstand? Did you do anything with the center stand?
6) Have you had any "bottoming out" problems if you lowered? Have you had any problems with road disturbances (speed bumps, dips, etc)?
7) What suspension settings are you using (dial settings)? Why? What did you learn?
8 ) Have you ever had a low or no-speed drop of the bike that could have been prevented if it was lower?
9) Have you fixed your issues? Are you happy? Are you safe? Any other advice?
I look forward to some good discussion :) Thanks
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[REPOSTED FROM GOOGLE CACHE]
Well, I took the plunge and bought a silver 2011. It is sitting in my driveway as of today and calling to me "please ride me". Will be a while, though...
I plan on trying all three ways to deal with the height. I have my boots at the repair place being taken apart and raised 5/8" to 3/4", a low Sargent seat on order, the Helibars on order, and Muzzy rear links on order (I considered Soupy's- pricing is better and adjustability would have been nice, but I didn't want to lose the center stand) The Soupy's kickstand arrived today already (pretty fancy chunk of aluminum). Will post more info when I ever get the stuff- hopefully detail specs, review of installation, and results! Wish me luck.
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[REPOSTED FROM GOOGLE CACHE]
OK, the lowering is completed and I have some data to share:
We measured the seat height in stages. It is not easy- one person has to hold the bike level (with a level), the other person has to use yet another long level at the lowest seat spot and measure to the ground. Regardless of any marketing material/etc, the 2011 Concours has a stock seat height of 32 3/8".
We then installed the Sargent low World Sport seat. It is nice, but it is really a pain to get on the bike.... and I thought the STOCK seat was difficult. Yeesh. It lowered the height to 31 1/2". This is not what Sargent claims- they claim it is 1.375" lower, it is actually 0.875" lower, a variance of 1/2".... disappointing.
We then installed the Muzzy links. Placed it on center stand- it is tricky to remove the bolts since one will hit the exhaust. You have to slide the sleeve to the other side and push the bolt out at an angle. We performed separate measurements from the axle to the body and the drop was exactly 1" (which was disappointing, since some people were claiming 1 1/2" or more). Why Muzzy doesn't TELL customers the drop measurement, I can't imagine. At least you CAN still use the center stand, although it is much harder to activate than stock. Remeasured seat height at 30 3/4".
Then installed the Helibars risers- it was a snap, no mods needed at all (looks great, functions well). We could then raise the fork tubes. Now THAT was a pain- trying to access the front/lower fork clamp bolts is quite difficult and we ended up removing the horn bracket and plastic thing above it. Some math and we determined that to match the rear drop of 1", we would have to raise the tubes 1 1/8", which we then did. That should theoretically keep the handling about the same as stock. Remeasured seat height at 30 5/8".
So all that work and expense and the lowering was only 1.9". This is not what I expected. Perhaps it will settle some, not sure. I used the same procedure to measure my ZRX, and it was lowered to 29 5/8", and it was still a bit too tall. I *still* can't even test drive this new Concours because my only riding boots are still at the shoe repair place being modified. In tennis shoes, I am on my toes; but at least I was able to stand the bike up and even back it up on a smooth garage floor (before I had to strain to touch toes and could not even stand up the bike).
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I had since gotten back the raised boots ($100 mod, before/after picture attached)- not raised quite as much as I had hoped. Plus the heel ended up the same height (which I suppose is OK, since I needed toe/ball height more). Since getting the boots, I have put 500 miles on the bike (wish it could be more, but job is a nightmare lately, and weather almost as bad). The above mods plus the boots make it possible to manage the bike, although it is still not "comfortable"... I dread placing my foot on loose gravel or something slick, I just don't have the leverage I would need to prevent a fall (although it hasn't happened yet). And backing up the bike is another challenge, I am trying to be especially careful where/how I park.
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Thanks for doing that.... :goodpost:
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So, reading the specifics about the Muzzy brackets AND the front fork adjustments- Can I safely assume that returning the bike to it's original height is 'doable'? (as in not having to take it to the shop)... Sounds like 4 bolts underneath, and 4 hard-to-get-to screws up front?
Thanks for the feedback.
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So, reading the specifics about the Muzzy brackets AND the front fork adjustments- Can I safely assume that returning the bike to it's original height is 'doable'? (as in not having to take it to the shop)... Sounds like 4 bolts underneath, and 4 hard-to-get-to screws up front?
Thanks for the feedback.
Sure, it's as simple as "undoing" the steps he listed (move tubes back down, put stock dogs back on).
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Sure, it's as simple as "undoing" the steps he listed (move tubes back down, put stock dogs back on).
Yep. But undoing the modification to my boots..... well... that would be a challenge at this point :)
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Reviving an old thread.
Can you elaborate on the center stand? How hard is it to use with the bike lowered?
Thanks
SH
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Reviving an old thread.
Can you elaborate on the center stand? How hard is it to use with the bike lowered?
Thanks
SH
The only way to put it over the center stand is if you put the rear wheel over a 1" thick piece of wood, i did buy a side stand and a center stand at a very good price from EBAY to modified them and keep the stock ones in case i sell it or have to bring to the stealer for warranty purposes
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For those with short leg problems as me only lowering or replacing the seat is not enough it should be combined with lowering links, while i sent my seat to Spencer to have it modified i did seat on the bike without the seat and it was harder to reach the floor than it is with the seat on, that section of the tank under the seat is to wide and keep your legs apart
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The only way to put it over the center stand is if you put the rear wheel over a 1" thick piece of wood
I wouldn't say that is the ONLY way. Several people have posted they are still able to use the center stand as before, without a ramp, it is just more difficult. The wood trick is a good one, though. I haven't tried to use the center stand, nor will I (there is no need for it other than service) so I can't comment about personal experience before/after lowering.
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hey Maxtog. how did you figure the math for the front forks? was thinking about doing some lowering myself but won't have to go as far down as you did. I was thinking about use the soupy links for a 1/2" drop on the rear along with reworking the seat too. just trying to figure the fork drop.
questions,, any problems with the fender hitting the fairing since its been lowered?
and why can't the center stand be use with the soupy links?
can center stand be modded the work with the soupy link?
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hey Maxtog. how did you figure the math for the front forks?
Just basic geometry/trig. I knew the fork angles and such from the specs. Dropped a triangle and computed what the length of the tube would have to change to lower the bike exactly 1" to match the rear lowering. I had my conclusions checked out by a friend who is a master mechanic and was a race car suspension expert (and who also rides bikes). The tube raising is going to be a little more than the amount the rear drops.
questions,, any problems with the fender hitting the fairing since its been lowered?
No. But I wouldn't go any farther than what I did :)
and why can't the center stand be use with the soupy links?
If I remember correctly it is because their design is different- The adjustable Soupy's links take up more space and would collide with the stand, unlike the fixed, stock-like-design Muzzy links.
can center stand be modded the work with the soupy link?
Sorry, I can't answer that. I just don't know.
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I did use Muzzy's but I did not raise the tubes to match. Some good members here said it will definitely require a shorter side stand. Without touching the front, the stock side stand works. Since I do not have a manual yet, what do you do to lower or raise the tubes? If I get a used side stand, I might try that.
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thanks,,,
Just basic geometry/trig. I knew the fork angles and such from the specs. Dropped a triangle and computed what the length of the tube would have to change to lower the bike exactly 1" to match the rear lowering. I had my conclusions checked out by a friend who is a master mechanic and was a race car suspension expert (and who also rides bikes). The tube raising is going to be a little more than the amount the rear drops.
No. But I wouldn't go any farther than what I did :)
If I remember correctly it is because their design is different- The adjustable Soupy's links take up more space and would collide with the stand, unlike the fixed, stock-like-design Muzzy links.
Sorry, I can't answer that. I just don't know.
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I did use Muzzy's but I did not raise the tubes to match. Some good members here said it will definitely require a shorter side stand. Without touching the front, the stock side stand works.
If you lower the bike 1" properly (both front and back) the side kickstand will simply be too long. I had to replace mine (see my first postings).
Since I do not have a manual yet, what do you do to lower or raise the tubes?
Step 1- purchase and install handlebar risers. Without them, you cannot raise the tubes. Once you have done that, it is easy, you just loosen some bolts and carefully twist the tubes up, making ABSOLUTELY SURE you have them both at exactly the same height.
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If you lower the rear .......the bike will be very difficult to put on the centerstand. I removed my stand and cut both legs 3/4 inch and rewelded the base legs...works perfect and just as easy to put on the center stand as stock height.
Muzzy links let you use the stock center stand...soupys dont. You can send your center stand to Muzzy.....he will charge you 149.99 for a shorter stand and give you a core charge exchange for your stock unit....the price is $77.95 with the new core exchange from you to Muzzy.
Muzzy links are a fixed set height spacing. There are several for sale on E bay that have 3 holes on one end which gives you 3 different suspension heights to choose from......try to see what you like...anytime you lower your height, you must either get an adjustable sidestand....or cut your stock one and reweld accordingly......any welding shop can do it for you in 20 minutes for about 25.00.
Ninja
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Word(s) of caution. I bought the 08 slightly used. It had been lowered using the Muzzy brackets as well as having the forks pushed up about an inch or so....
If you do this....your oil drain plug will take a beating (driveways and speed bumps, etc). Your toes/foot pegs will be close to the ground in turns/curves.
I cover my bike at work, and while on the kickstand, she blew over onto the right side. Unless you shorten your kickstand, the bike will sit VERY upright on the kickstand. The cover acted like a parachute and pulled it right over. >:(
I've returned the bike to stock height- very happy with it.
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Word(s) of caution. I bought the 08 slightly used. It had been lowered using the Muzzy brackets as well as having the forks pushed up about an inch or so....
If you do this....your oil drain plug will take a beating (driveways and speed bumps, etc). Your toes/foot pegs will be close to the ground in turns/curves.
Hmm, I have been pretty diligent about reading the forums for many months now- yours is the first time I have seen anyone complain about the drain plug hitting due to reasonable lowering (1"). Is there a difference in the oil plug design location between the old C14 and new C14? (I seem to remember reading that). I have 1,000 miles now, and have not had a single issue on my lowered 2011.
I cover my bike at work, and while on the kickstand, she blew over onto the right side. Unless you shorten your kickstand, the bike will sit VERY upright on the kickstand. The cover acted like a parachute and pulled it right over. >:(
+1. You absolutely need to shorten the stand if you lower the bike an inch... period! It is not safe otherwise (as you, unfortunately, discovered)
I've returned the bike to stock height- very happy with it.
Some of us (with short legs) simply don't have that option. But I am glad it worked out for you at stock.
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Hmm, I have been pretty diligent about reading the forums for many months now- yours is the first time I have seen anyone complain about the drain plug hitting due to reasonable lowering (1"). Is there a difference in the oil plug design location between the old C14 and new C14? (I seem to remember reading that). I have 1,000 miles now, and have not had a single issue on my lowered 2011.
Yes, the '08's/'09's have the oil drain plug located on the bottom of the pan, with a half assed 'shield' in place to protect it. The later models have the plug on the front of the pan.
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Lowering the bike has all sorts of hidden unintended consequences....
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Lowering the bike has all sorts of hidden unintended consequences....
Agreed. Such as: lowering clearance, changing the handling, making the center stand difficult, forcing replacement of the kickstand, and reducing suspension travel.
But not lowering it has various ones too. Like: dropping the bike in a parking lot, not being able to back it out of a parking space, not being able to prevent a slow tight turn fallover, being very uncomfortable at every stop, tip overs at stops, having difficultly getting on, etc.
I would NOT recommend lowering unless lowering the seat and wearing taller boots is still not enough. And that was exactly my situation. No other bike in the C14 class/type is much lower, so the occasional comments about "the Concours is not for everyone" are also insulting and invalid (not claiming you did this, just a preemptive declaration) and I will have no bike before having a slow, loud, poor handling,low-tech "cruiser".
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^^^Yamaha V-Max.
I did notice that the BMW K16 is a lot lower than most - I can nearly flatfoot it, and I am on my tiptoes with the Concours (30" inseam).
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^^^Yamaha V-Max.
I did notice that the BMW K16 is a lot lower than most - I can nearly flatfoot it, and I am on my tiptoes with the Concours (30" inseam).
I looked at the V-Max. It was somewhat interesting, yet lower-tech. But *naked* = 4 months riding season MAX (that is the "Max" part of the "V-Max"). Not at all in the same class.
BMW K16 is great, but COMPLETELY unaffordable. And it is not lower, it is 31" high with the LOW seat, and weighs considerably more than the C14. The C14 with the Kawasaki (or aftermarket) low seat is 31".
And my inseam is < 27".... try THAT!
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I am short 5'7" now and have to get use to it. I can't Flat Foot the 1400 and won't ride one I can't FF. How do you get a 1400 Concours down to my level? I see that the standard seat height is 31.5"
How low can it go? I would need at least 2"
First, understand that your height has nothing to do with how your feet will or won't touch the ground. Anatomical inseam is what is important- leg length. You can be 5'7" and have long legs and a short torso and reach fine. Or, you can be like me and have a long torso and short legs- when I sit, you am the same as a typical 5"11" person, but when I stand, I am suddenly only 5'7".
I assume you have read this thread now, so you can see that there are only three things you can do: lower the seat, lower the bike, and raise your boots. Each one has pluses and minuses. And those are covered in this thread.
With the lowest seats and the safest/reasonable bike lowering links, you can gain about 1.9". It might be possible to gain a bit more, but not much. The rest you will have to make up for with taller boots. Please feel free to ask any additional questions!
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I like that.....responding to another post in a different thread. Makes things interesting.
I would be real concerned if it was an 08 or 09 due to the oil plug and guard. There's a reason they relocated it to the front of the pan. If it's a 10 on up then no worries there.
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I like that.....responding to another post in a different thread. Makes things interesting.
Yeah, I was being creative. You know how I hate duplicate threads. And I really, really hate that the board throws out warnings about posting to old threads- all that does is ENCOURAGE duplicate threads. I wonder if that can be turned off???
I would be real concerned if it was an 08 or 09 due to the oil plug and guard. There's a reason they relocated it to the front of the pan. If it's a 10 on up then no worries there.
Yeah, although that info is in the thread, if anyone reads it. As you know, I lowered my gen2 what I would consider the safe maximum- 1". Have been riding it that way for over a year now without a single issue. And I HAVE been over speed bumps and really rough roads too.
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Yeah, I was being creative. You know how I hate duplicate threads. And I really, really hate that the board throws out warnings about posting to old threads- all that does is ENCOURAGE duplicate threads. I wonder if that can be turned off???
Dunno, but I'll check.
Found it, but I need to check with Rick on changing it.
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I have a 34" inseam and never realized how much hell some guys go through just to ride this bike. I hope it worked out for you.
Maybe the stock windscreen it tall enough for you, it is useless for me.
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I have a 34" inseam and never realized how much hell some guys go through just to ride this bike.
Yep. It is a challenge. And a shame that the bike is not more accommodating, stock.
I hope it worked out for you.
Mostly. Sometimes I wonder if it is a mistake. But at least I can make due. I am stuck with her now :)
Maybe the stock windscreen it tall enough for you, it is useless for me.
Remember, standing height nor inseam measurements, alone, tell all that much about torso height. When I sit, I am typically as tall as someone almost 6 feet tall. I find that the stock screen is barely tall enough (and not quite wide enough) for winter (and yet for summer, it is not low enough). Some day I will probably get a bigger one for winter and a smaller one for summer and swap them out during the year. For now, I have been too lazy and there are too many choices- all of them being a guess. Of course, that is a topic for one of the many other existing windshield threads...
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I also have an FJR that is smaller and lower to the ground and this is why some people choose the FJR over the C14.
I personally like the C14 better but they are both very good bikes....
Btw; The ZX14 seat is lower than the C14 seat, I never measured it but I can tell it is, plus it's not as wide at the front so reaching the ground should be easier for those with shorter legs...
(http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/pp75/gabriel1951/DSCN1600_zps1df44a8a.jpg)
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I also have an FJR that is smaller and lower to the ground and this is why some people choose the FJR over the C14.
I personally like the C14 better but they are both very good bikes....
Btw; The ZX14 seat is lower than the C14 seat, I never measured it but I can tell it is, plus it's not as wide at the front so reaching the ground should be easier for those with shorter legs...
I am, ahem, MotoGP sized... .
When I was cross shopping, something about the FJR did not fit me right--and it didn't really feel any smaller or lower for some reason.
I too was strongly looking at buying a new ZX14, but I think once the novelty wore off, I would have been wishing for the features/comfort of the C14.
I will say one thing, after spending time on the C14 and then hoping onto my Z1000, it feels like a bicycle in comparison.
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So now that the weather's been nice for awhile I've been taking mama for more and more rides lately, FWIW this bike has always been a little too tall for me but it's not really an issue when solo and I manage through it. But with the added weight of mama on the back it sure does get harry some times when I get caught on sloped/cambered pavement at a stop sign/light or traffic etc, I've had a couple times in the past month where I literally could only get one foot down due to sloped pavement and pretty much hold up 1k lbs (me, mama, and Connie) with not much more than one big toe... :o
I came across this kit that allows you to lower/raise the bike without having to rip everything back apart, the lowering links are adjustable and so is the side stand... I'm intrigued about giving it a try. :-\
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181030186206?item=181030186206&viewitem=&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/181030186206?item=181030186206&viewitem=&vxp=mtr)
Anyone using this kit or have any feedback about the shop?
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I came across this kit that allows you to lower/raise the bike without having to rip everything back apart, the lowering links are adjustable and so is the side stand... I'm intrigued about giving it a try. :-\
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181030186206?item=181030186206&viewitem=&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/181030186206?item=181030186206&viewitem=&vxp=mtr)
Hmm, that is interesting. Please note that like all the ADJUSTABLE lowering links, it will require persistent removal of the center stand, and that is something I didn't want to do (which is why I went with a fixed one). I would also put out a rather firm warning that lowering more than an inch is probably entering a danger zone. So if you are looking for a way to just from 0 to 1ish inch, adjustable links might make sense... otherwise, it is advantageous to get get the fixed 1inch ones and keep the center stand.
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Hmm, that is interesting. Please note that like all the ADJUSTABLE lowering links, it will require persistent removal of the center stand, and that is something I didn't want to do (which is why I went with a fixed one).
Why would you need to remove the center stand? Looks like an open end wrench adjusts it while it's still on the bike right? ??? :-\
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Why would you need to remove the center stand? Looks like an open end wrench adjusts it while it's still on the bike right? ??? :-\
Because the stand interferes with the bolt heads (or something like that, if my memory from two years ago is accurate). You can still adjust the height without removing the adjustable links, but they can't exist with a center stand. Sorry.
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Because the stand interferes with the bolt heads (or something like that, if my memory from two years ago is accurate). You can still adjust the height without removing the adjustable links, but they can't exist with a center stand. Sorry.
With the one I posted the link to it looks like you adjust it in the middle of the link though right? Or am I missing something? :-\
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With the one I posted the link to it looks like you adjust it in the middle of the link though right? Or am I missing something? :-\
You are missing the part where he clearly states:
"NOTE: As with all other [adjustable] lowering links for the Concours, the center-stand will no longer function and should be removed during installation."
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You are missing the part where he clearly states:
"NOTE: As with all other [adjustable] lowering links for the Concours, the center-stand will no longer function and should be removed during installation."
Links that are constructed like the OEM's will not need to have the stand removed or impede it operation ..
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You are missing the part where he clearly states:
"NOTE: As with all other [adjustable] lowering links for the Concours, the center-stand will no longer function and should be removed during installation."
Hmmm.... I took that as unable to use center stand without shortening it or using a 2x4 under it... :-\
I'll give them a shout on Monday and get the skinny.
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Hmmm.... I took that as unable to use center stand without shortening it or using a 2x4 under it... :-\
I am about 95% sure it means it can't be present at all.
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Hmmm.... I took that as unable to use center stand without shortening it or using a 2x4 under it... :-\
I'll give them a shout on Monday and get the skinny.
Wouldn't using a 2x4 under it essentially make it longer and harder to put up? ???
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Wouldn't using a 2x4 under it essentially make it longer and harder to put up? ???
The 2x4 goes under the rear tire goofball... :nuts:
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D'oh!
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The results are in:
You gotta be tough to play here!
I admit it, I did laugh.
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...at least a sense of humor.
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Totally required here.
Conrad, hope you didn't get splinters. :yikes:
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Totally required here.
Conrad, hope you didn't get splinters. :yikes:
That's what Pinocchio said to his girlfriend...
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That's what Pinocchio said to his girlfriend...
Yeah, but what did she say to him...?
"Scoot on down and tell me some lies."
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Yeah, but what did she say to him...?
"Scoot on down and tell me some lies."
A little varnish is in order!
(http://readin2this.files.wordpress.com/2010/05/pinocchio-girl-31433.jpg)
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Yes, the '08's/'09's have the oil drain plug located on the bottom of the pan, with a half assed 'shield' in place to protect it. The later models have the plug on the front of the pan.
Does anyone know if the redesigned 10+ oil pan is a direct fit to put on an 08/09?? ??? :-\
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Does anyone know if the redesigned 10+ oil pan is a direct fit to put on an 08/09?? ??? :-\
Ron Ayers shows the same part number for the oil pan gasket for the '09 (http://www.ronayers.com/Oil-Pan-C245700.aspx)and the '10. (http://www.ronayers.com/Oil-Pan-C249002.aspx)
I'm thinking yes, but no, I don't know.
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Yeah, but what did she say to him...?
"Scoot on down and tell me some lies."
:rotflmao:
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Yeah, but what did she say to him...?
"Scoot on down and tell me some lies."
I missed the fine print. ::)
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Does anyone know if the redesigned 10+ oil pan is a direct fit to put on an 08/09?? ??? :-\
Ron Ayers shows the same part number for the oil pan gasket for the '09 (http://www.ronayers.com/Oil-Pan-C245700.aspx)and the '10. (http://www.ronayers.com/Oil-Pan-C249002.aspx)
I'm thinking yes, but no, I don't know.
Can somebody post a pic showing where the drain plug is re-located to on the 10+ model years??
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ZG, why not use the muzzy lowering links? Do not interfere with center stand - I use a piece of 1 X 6 and can easily put it on center stand. And they come in gold color to boot. They are not adjustable though - get about 1" or 1.5" lowering.
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Can somebody post a pic showing where the drain plug is re-located to on the 10+ model years??
I think that Fred has one over at his website.
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ZG, why not use the muzzy lowering links? Do not interfere with center stand - I use a piece of 1 X 6 and can easily put it on center stand. And they come in gold color to boot. They are not adjustable though - get about 1" or 1.5" lowering.
I think regardless of which lowering link is used it might be a good idea to at the same time swap oil pans (if they're a direct swap) since from what I've heard the drain plug on the 10+ was put in another spot that minimizes it catching on things. Looking underneath my 09 it looks like the drain plug and drain plug guard hangs down lower than the exhaust, having the bike be even lower with a link means that would be the first thing to scrape, and it broke off would obviously be a very bad thing... :-\
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I think that Fred has one over at his website.
Gotta link C? ???
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Gotta link C? ???
No, I would have pasted it in if I had one. I was just looking at a pic of the newer oil pans but I can't remember where in the heck it was at.
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No, I would have pasted it in if I had one. I was just looking at a pic of the newer oil pans but I can't remember where in the heck it was at.
http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/concours14 (http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/concours14)
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I don't know if this is the picture being referred to, but it's a pic of Murph's oil filter protector
on Fred's '10 C14, and it shows the drain bolt pretty clearly.
double click for full size:(http://m1.i.pbase.com/g3/41/9841/2/121171911.H7CIGbra.jpg) (http://m1.i.pbase.com/o4/41/9841/1/121171911.r6nl1M7p.OilFilterCover012a.JPG)
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I don't know if this is the picture being referred to, but it's a pic of Murph's oil filter protector
on Fred's '10 C14, and it shows the drain bolt pretty clearly.
double click for full size:(http://m1.i.pbase.com/g3/41/9841/2/121171911.H7CIGbra.jpg) (http://m1.i.pbase.com/o4/41/9841/1/121171911.r6nl1M7p.OilFilterCover012a.JPG)
That's the one I was thinking of!
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I don't know if this is the picture being referred to, but it's a pic of Murph's oil filter protector
on Fred's '10 C14, and it shows the drain bolt pretty clearly.
double click for full size:(http://m1.i.pbase.com/g3/41/9841/2/121171911.H7CIGbra.jpg) (http://m1.i.pbase.com/o4/41/9841/1/121171911.r6nl1M7p.OilFilterCover012a.JPG)
Perfect, that's exactly what I wanted to see, thanks FM! :chugbeer:
In looking at my 09 the drain plug hangs down even further than my exhaust, so I think if I do this I'll also try the oil pan swap as well to gain an inch more of clearance. :thumbs: :)
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ZG, why not use the muzzy lowering links? [...] get about 1" or 1.5" lowering.
In my case it was exactly 1". Not 1.25, not 1.5". Measured carefully several times.
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I think regardless of which lowering link is used it might be a good idea to at the same time swap oil pans (if they're a direct swap) since from what I've heard the drain plug on the 10+ was put in another spot that minimizes it catching on things. Looking underneath my 09 it looks like the drain plug and drain plug guard hangs down lower than the exhaust, having the bike be even lower with a link means that would be the first thing to scrape, and it broke off would obviously be a very bad thing... :-\
I tend to agree with your assessment. I have driven many thousands of miles, lowered 1" (back AND FRONT, of course) with the Muzzy links and have never hit anything yet (and I have driven some REALLY bad roads with lots of huge irregularities). But mine is a 2nd gen. If the pan is compatible and not overpriced, I think replacing it would be a good idea.
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If the pan is compatible and not overpriced, I think replacing it would be a good idea.
I'm only gonna do it if it's overpriced... ;)
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I'm only gonna do it if it's overpriced... ;)
49034: PAN-OIL 2705331 1 Usually ships within 1 to 2 business days $194.37 $146.66
BikeBandit.com
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I'm only gonna do it if it's overpriced... ;)
49034: PAN-OIL 2705331 1 Usually ships within 1 to 2 business days $194.37 $146.66
BikeBandit.com
Under $150? You better buy two J. ;)
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Under $150? You better buy two J. ;)
:rotflmao:
Ok, I just ordered up the 10+ pan, gasket, Muzzys link, and that adjustable side stand I posted the other day. It's worth a try I guess, first time I've ever done a link on any bike I've ever had, and I've had more than a dozen... :-\
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I've done it on almost every bike I have had. Links and risers from "Precision Engineering" will be here in two days.
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In looking at my 09 the drain plug hangs down even further than my exhaust, so I think if I do this I'll also try the oil pan swap as well to gain an inch more of clearance. :thumbs: :)
Ok, so to clarify on this I was wrong... :-[
When I was looking at my plug the bike was on the side stand, and from that angle it looked to me like the drain plug hung down lower than my exhaust...
(http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb336/jaywilcox/ZGdrainplugonsidestand_zps2982428f.jpg) (http://s1200.photobucket.com/user/jaywilcox/media/ZGdrainplugonsidestand_zps2982428f.jpg.html)
So I ordered up the 10+ pan and gasket, but took it in today for install and once upright we realized I was wrong and that it was just the odd angle I was looking at it when on the side stand... :-[
This pic is while the bike is straight up and you can clearly see that the exhaust hangs down lower than the drain plug, my bad... :-[
(http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb336/jaywilcox/ZGdrainplugsittingupright_zpsc6282ba9.jpg) (http://s1200.photobucket.com/user/jaywilcox/media/ZGdrainplugsittingupright_zpsc6282ba9.jpg.html)
Good thing is I didn't need the 10+ pan and gasket, so didn't have to pay for em, saved me a couple Benji's. :)
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Ok, I just ordered up the 10+ pan, gasket, Muzzys link, and that adjustable side stand I posted the other day. It's worth a try I guess, first time I've ever done a link on any bike I've ever had, and I've had more than a dozen... :-\
Installed today! :thumbs: :thumbs:
Wow I'm really shocked coming home what a difference just an inch made, coming to the first couple stops I literally was stubbing toes doing my normal what I'm use to feet down approach! After a couple more stops got that all in order and am very pleased! I used to be only on tip toes, now I'm solid on the balls of my feet, feels great and much more sturdy and comfy! :)
The adjustable side stand I posted the link to arrived and I was less than impressed in the quality of it, so I sent it back for refund.
I opted to go with the PE 1" lower side stand, quality product and well built IMO, looks great! :thumbs:
http://www.preeng.com/xcart/1-Shorter-Billet-Kickstand.html (http://www.preeng.com/xcart/1-Shorter-Billet-Kickstand.html)
(http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb336/jaywilcox/ewiuriewqew_zpsd24c076d.jpg) (http://s1200.photobucket.com/user/jaywilcox/media/ewiuriewqew_zpsd24c076d.jpg.html)
(http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb336/jaywilcox/wqiueiwque_zps43fbbeab.jpg) (http://s1200.photobucket.com/user/jaywilcox/media/wqiueiwque_zps43fbbeab.jpg.html)
(http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb336/jaywilcox/iwueiuwqe_zps91614d30.jpg) (http://s1200.photobucket.com/user/jaywilcox/media/iwueiuwqe_zps91614d30.jpg.html)
And for the links I went with the Muzzys, the gold goes nicely with the Ohlins gold. 8) :thumbs:
http://www.muzzys.com/concours14/concours14_links/index.html (http://www.muzzys.com/concours14/concours14_links/index.html)
(http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb336/jaywilcox/ieurieu_zpsde1f9585.jpg) (http://s1200.photobucket.com/user/jaywilcox/media/ieurieu_zpsde1f9585.jpg.html)
(http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb336/jaywilcox/piwqueiuwq_zpsc54cd954.jpg) (http://s1200.photobucket.com/user/jaywilcox/media/piwqueiuwq_zpsc54cd954.jpg.html)
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Looks good, PE makes some good stuff. I have their links and risers (both 1")
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Ok, so to clarify on this I was wrong... :-[
When I was looking at my plug the bike was on the side stand, and from that angle it looked to me like the drain plug hung down lower than my exhaust...
(http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb336/jaywilcox/ZGdrainplugonsidestand_zps2982428f.jpg) (http://s1200.photobucket.com/user/jaywilcox/media/ZGdrainplugonsidestand_zps2982428f.jpg.html)
So I ordered up the 10+ pan and gasket, but took it in today for install and once upright we realized I was wrong and that it was just the odd angle I was looking at it when on the side stand... :-[
Good thing is I didn't need the 10+ pan and gasket, so didn't have to pay for em, saved me a couple Benji's. :)
Well OK if you want to go cheap (ZG cheap?..that's a first.), just remember that when you're in a fast left sweeper and you see a sizable bump ahead in the turn. :stirpot: :yikes: :stirpot:
....as for your other decision, well done ZG, that side stand looks first rate and equal to the other quality installs on your bike. :thumbs:
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Whats going to happen to him in that bumpy left sweeper?
My crystal ball is cloudy.
(http://socialmediamarketingkelowna.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/Bright-Spark-smiley-confused-MM-yellow-150x150.jpg)
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When I was looking at my plug the bike was on the side stand, and from that angle it looked to me like the drain plug hung down lower than my exhaust...
This pic is while the bike is straight up and you can clearly see that the exhaust hangs down lower than the drain plug, my bad...
Maybe on your non-stock exhaust system. But on the stock exhaust, I believe the drain pain *is* the lowest point.
That is a nice looking kickstand... I think I like that much better than my Soupy's, especially since mine has *NOTHING* sticking out to use with your foot to get the thing down. I have to kind wrap my foot up and under to get it to pull out. I am used to it now, but it is tricky.
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Just lowered mine in the rear , front is next on the list..
I little trick I found is I used my stock links off my ZX14R .. They bolt right up and clear the center stand ... The ZX14R links are about and inch longer than the C14 .. Since most ZX14 guys lower there bikes they just toss out the factory links , you should be able to pick up a set cheaper than Muzzys or other brands .. Bike still has plenty of lean on the kick stand but that will change when I drop the front .. I will most likely get a used kick stand off EBay and cut and weld it back together ..I'm not sure but cutting it may make it hard to get your foot on the side stand to lower it , I will not know till I give it a try .. If it is a problem I'll just buy an after market side stand ..
I was on my tip toes before and now I'm flat footed with just a bit of bend in my knees .. I feel much safer on the bike ..It much easier to back the bike up and move it around .. That was the first reason I needed lower , the second is for the days I run it at the drag strip .. Lower is faster , better 60 foot times and helps with wheelies by having a lower CG ..
Now I need to find the cheapest ( safe way ) to drop the front end ..I'm sure not going to give Muzzy 118.00 plus shipping for some spacers ..I think I can make up some alum spacers much cheaper myself .. :)
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Why not just slide the fork tubes up in the trees? I never looked to see if the tubes are the same dimension all the way down but i don't remember seeing any rises of reduction in diameter?
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Why not just slide the fork tubes up in the trees? I never looked to see if the tubes are the same dimension all the way down but i don't remember seeing any rises of reduction in diameter?
Indeed. You simply slide the forks up. But you will have to add bar risers to do this, otherwise there is no room. Perhaps he wants to lower the front (which is the right thing to do if you lower the rear) and yet wants to keep the bars the same. In that case, I am not sure what one would do.
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I just lowered the rear 1" and did not change the front. I can't tell if it handles any different but I'm sure two-up changes it more than the amount I lowered it.
I put a ZX14 seat on it which lowered it a little also. I have a "33/34" inseam (depending on how fat or thin I am ::)), the fatter I get the shorter my legs are? :o
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I just dropped Connie at a "Zero speed" intersection (I should have known it would be a matter of time before this happened).
I read as much as I could regarding lowering the bike on this forum.
I already have the Sargent lower seat.
I have bar risers installed and plan on dropping front 1".
I'd like to drop the rear 1" also.
So, are these SAFE and ok to use?
https://www.ebay.com/i/232284697312?chn=ps&dispItem=1 (https://www.ebay.com/i/232284697312?chn=ps&dispItem=1)
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I have Muzzy links on mine. I dropped front and rear 1".
They may work fine, but I don't like the links with 3 holes.
One reason is you can't/shouldn't lower the bike more than 1".
I've seen a 1 step link at T-Rex Racing. Looks to be a better link to me.
If you can weld, both stands can be shortened an inch.
Side stand is EZ. Center takes a bit more work. I have photo's of where to cut/modify.
If interested, PM me a phone number and I could send them that way.
Ride safe, Ted
PS: I'll be out of town until Friday.
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Thank you for the reply. I looked at the T-REX but they don't state if the center stand has to go. Also, do you have a web link for the Muzzy's? I cant seem to come up with anything there.
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I just dropped Connie at a "Zero speed" intersection (I should have known it would be a matter of time before this happened).
Sometimes that can happen, even with longer legs- you can place your foot on slippery oil or loose gravel and wham. So don't feel bad. It is just more LIKELY to happen when you have shorter legs.
I read as much as I could regarding lowering the bike on this forum. I already have the Sargent lower seat. I don't mind loosing the center stand. I have bar risers installed and plan on dropping front 1". I'd like to drop the rear 1" also.
So, are these SAFE and ok to use? https://www.ebay.com/i/232284697312?chn=ps&dispItem=1 (https://www.ebay.com/i/232284697312?chn=ps&dispItem=1)
Yes, they are safe to use as long as you don't attempt lower more than around 1" (maybe a bit more, but certainly NOT 1.75"+, I can ONLY validate 1"). Anything more than that and you are running into unknown risks of bottoming out the suspension and slamming the rear fender into the bike's lower, etc. With that particular design, I cannot tell if you must lose the center stand. On most "variable" adjustable links, there is additional hardware that gets in the way and that is why the center stand must go. The one you linked to is a bit different, so I think it will NOT require center stand removal. Side stand should be fine.
I can't believe they would even offer a 4", there is no situation I can think of where that would work. There are three holes, and their "details" don't say what drop is offered by each hole.... which is very concerning. How are you supposed to know what options there are without any information? You could buy those and end up with one hole being 0", the next 2" and the next 4", leaving you with NO USABLE/SAFE OPTIONS but stock! I would Email him and ask, and also request they update their listings with that CRITICAL information. Finally, with three holes, closely side-by-side in aluminum, with no reinforcement, how strong is that unit going to be? There is a lot of force going through that thing. If it fails, you could go down, and fast.
My recommendation is the Muzzys links ( http://muzzys.com (http://muzzys.com) ), which I am not sure is made anymore, or something like that design (which T-Tex appears to be)
See also http://projektd.com/product_info.php?products_id=85 (http://projektd.com/product_info.php?products_id=85) (Which ALSO doesn't list drop amount!!!)
As I warn in my first postings, the proper location to measure actual drop is from the axle center of the rear wheel. If you measure the back of the frame, there will appear to be more drop, or forward of the axle, it will appear be less drop. So who even knows what claimed numbers mean until you put it on and measure it yourself (just make sure to do it on level ground and make sure to bounce in the bike a few times first).
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Looks like someone is trying to reconstitute Muzzy's.
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Thanks maxtog. I ended up ordering the T-REX links and side stand combo. These links do NOT have the multiple holes as I agree with you about the weakness of additional holes. They're claim is 1 1/2" drop so I'm gambling that will be 1" in reality and won't risk being too much. I'll report back with some before and after measurements after I install them as well as dropping front end too.
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Before you install the new links, put the bike on the center stand and measure center of axle to a point on the frame.
After you install, {again, with bike on center stand} repeat that measurement.
The difference is your actual drop.
After your done, lower the front the "same" amount, and readjust your spring sag. {it will change slightly}
Ride safe, Ted
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:goodpost:
+1
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I finished installing the T-REX drop links and shorter side stand. Both were nicely made.
I then loosened fork clamps and dropped the front (fork tubes sticking thru the mounts 1").
All went pretty smooth and I found it easy to access the lower fork bolts by removing the panel (4 plastic rivets) just above the horn.
Bottom line for me was to measure the total, overall drop I'll ever do to this bike. The stock seat height, using a 4' level, and the bike stood straight up was 32 and 1/16". After I installed the Sargent Low seat, links, and dropped the front, the new seat height measurement was right on 30". I took it for a ride and I could tell the handling is a little better...which is already awesome ('specially compared to my VMAX lol) I'm sure this will help me from accidentally dropping bike the way I did again.
Thanks maxtog for your original post regarding lowering the C14, as well other contributors of this forum.
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Don't forget to set your spring sag.
Ride safe, Ted
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oops! I overlooked that from your previous post connie-rider, thank you for the reminder. What is that and how is it done? I never touched the suspension adjustments.
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I then loosened fork clamps and dropped the front (fork tubes sticking thru the mounts 1").
Having the fork tubes rise 1" does not lower the front by 1". Remember, the forks are at an angle, so it will require more than 1" to lower 1"; basic geometry, ya know.
Bottom line for me was to measure the total, overall drop I'll ever do to this bike.
Some of us were hoping you would do proper measurements on the rear axle before/after so we would know exactly how much the T-REX links actually drop the rear (to help future purchasers).... Shame on you? You need to know that measurement, anyway, so you can properly lower the front by the same amount...
Thanks maxtog for your original post regarding lowering the C14
That is what we are here for, to share info and help each other! Well, at least I hope MOST of us are here for that :)
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oops! I overlooked that from your previous post connie-rider, thank you for the reminder. What is that and how is it done? I never touched the suspension adjustments.
If you never did it, the change is not important.
But, if you never set your suspension, it needs to be done.
I don't have the info handy. Will try to find it.
Or hopefully someone will post a shortcut to the discussion here.
Until then; Go to You Tube and research "Setting Suspension".
Ride safe, Ted
Here is a lot I found on this Forum.
Happy reading.
Help with suspension settings http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=4480.0 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=4480.0)
C14 suspension setup http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=2027.0 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=2027.0)
Setting up your suspension http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=7802.0 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=7802.0)
Suspension for the completely stupid http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=14869.0 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=14869.0)
Suspension advice http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=13297.0 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=13297.0)
Setting suspension http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=13139.0 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=13139.0)
I went to you Tube when I did mine and watched several video's. Pretty simple to do after that.
I am NOT saying I got it perfect. But it sure feels better.
Ride safe, Ted
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Thanks Ted, I watched a few good vids on YouTube and will do this soon.
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Great reads folks.
You all have convinced me to purchase T-Rex lowering links & adjustable kickstand, and Murphs' bar risers.
I watched a few YouTube videos, and the links and lowering the forks looks pretty straightforward.
Wish me luck! :)
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Great reads folks.
You all have convinced me to purchase T-Rex lowering links & adjustable kickstand, and Murphs' bar risers.
I watched a few YouTube videos, and the links and lowering the forks looks pretty straightforward.
Wish me luck! :)
Update...
I installed the T-Rex lowering linkage & adjustable kickstand, and Murphs' bar risers.
Overall, the job went smooth.
The T-Rex links lowered the rear about 1-1/8" or so. And I slid the fork tubes up 1-1/4".
I went from balls of my feet, to flat footed.
Next step is to set up the suspension.
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Quick questions for anyone that has lowered their C14. (Or not lowered for that matter.) Have you ever hit your lower fairing on anything since you lowered your bike? Like for instance, a speed bump.
No, but that is because I lowered safely, which is 1". Anything more than 1" is risky. 1.5" is what I believe might be the absolute maximum, but I have no evidence that is safe, so I will not recommend anything more than 1".
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Like Maxtog, I haven't hit the fairing, but part of the reason is, I added preload to the springs, and I am a bit more careful since lowering the bike.
Maxtog, which Links did you use to get the 1" drop?
I looked thru the 7 pages and didn't see it quickly so I decided (out of laziness) to just ask.
I have the Muzzy's and {as I recall} the actual measurement change (Axle to frame / on center stand) was 1 1/2" 1 1/8" change.
As I noted earlier, I set the suspension and recently decided it's just too stiff for normal riding.
So, I'm wanting to change to links to a set that give's me less drop. {I can then soften the suspension a bit}.
MAXPWR, after you change your suspension preload, remeasure the seat height {using your method}.
I think you'll find that the seat height will be higher.
Ride safe, Ted
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Like Maxtog, I haven't hit the fairing, but part of the reason is, I added preload to the springs, and I am a bit more careful since lowering the bike.
I think my preload is stock. I have hit some really hard/big/major things and never bottomed out on the front or rear.
Maxtog, which Links did you use to get the 1" drop?
Muzzy's
I have the Muzzy's and {as I recall} the actual measurement change (Axle to frame / on center stand) was 1 1/2" change.
That is not what I measured- on mine it ended up exactly 1" rear at the axle to frame. I expected 1.5" but it wasn't.
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Maxtog, I'm not sure we're on the same page when we're measuring.
In an earlier post you said;
As I warn in my first postings, the proper location to measure actual drop is from the axle center of the rear wheel. If you measure the back of the frame, there will appear to be more drop, or forward of the axle, it will appear be less drop. So who even knows what claimed numbers mean until you put it on and measure it yourself (just make sure to do it on level ground and make sure to bounce in the bike a few times first).
It sounds like your measuring from the axle to the frame, with weight on the rear tire?
If yes, that is not how I am doing it and does not give me the information I'm looking for.
To find the actual (geometric) change you get from changing the links, you have to measure from the axle to the frame {directly above the axle}, with the bike on the center stand, the rear tire off the ground, and the rear suspension fully extended..
PS: I am "not" saying your measurement is not good.
Yours actually tells you how much the seat height changed..
That is good as it is real world. But your methods includes spring sag.
Spring sag is different on every bike, so the spring sag has to be out of the measurement to get an actual number.
I'm looking for an actual number to use in a calculation.
Ride safe, Ted
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It sounds like your measuring from the axle to the frame, with weight on the rear tire?
Yes, the sitting height change of the bike, after bounced a few times to settle the suspension.
PS: I am "not" saying your measurement is not good. Yours actually tells you how much the seat height changed.. That is good as it is real world.
To me, the real-world was all I cared about (at the time).
But your methods includes spring sag. Spring sag is different on every bike, so the spring sag has to be out of the measurement to get an actual number.
But it was held constant because I didn't change anything else in the suspension before/after the measurements.... You are quite correct, however, that this will not really address "bottoming out" the suspension on just any Concours. I can't provide an exact number for that, unfortunately. I am not sure anyone really can because there are just too many variables. I do believe it is still useful as a "relative" number, though, because the suspension was "stock" at that point. So if the bike is put back to stock settings (and weight, if applicable), one should still get my results with the Muzzy links and the listed raising of the front fork tubes.
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All (Particularly Maxtog),, I went back and remeasured the amount my rear whell was lowered using the Muzzy Links.
Turns out that my memory was "wrong". It was not 1 1/2". It was 1 1/8"...
{Yea, I admit it. I made a mistake..}
I then used the corrected dimensions to calculate how much length change it takes to get different amount's of drop..
As I sed in an earlier poet, I'm trying to build my own Lowering Links. (Target is a 3/4" drop...)
I'm doing this as I'm dragging things in the twisties, but don't want the bike raised to full height.
and, I wanna see if I can do it.... <evil grin>
Watch out world, Ted's homemade Lowering Link is nearing completion..
Ride safe, Ted
PS: I was also able to determine that a ZX-14 Link will lower a C-14 2 1/2"...
I feel that is too much to lower a C-14, but {if you really need it low} it is a possibility..