Can a bike hydrolock and be ok?

[PlaynInPeoria]

I left mine on prime and it left gas on the floor. I thought it was coolant or oil as it mixed with some oil and honestly, I don't frequent this forum enough to be aware of the hydrolock issue. For some reason, I still hang on my Bandit forum despite the fact that I sold it 2 years ago.  And now I am paying the price, ouch.

Anyway, I cranked it last night after I cleaned up the mess and took out the air filter in an attempt to see where the fluid was coming from.  It made a LOUD noise like a sledgehammer hitting and anvil and stopped dead.

So I am gonna pull the plugs (and take it off prime!) and do the rod/rubber hose thingy test this weekend. 

So I have some questions:

1) What percentage of bikes are actually ok after a hydrolock happens?

2) When I yank the plugs and crank the engine and gas pours out, this seems like a bad time to have a spark? What is the preferred method of preventing a nice blaze?  I have stick coils and I suppose I could just disconnect one wire from them.  But I bow to the collective wisdom on here.  This seems like something that needs to be right the first time.

3) If my engine has an issue, I have a friend who is a mechanic and is trustworthy and we can work out a deal.  Should I have him split the cases and replace the rod(s) or just get another engine? 

4) Where do I get said engine?  Any tips on this process?  As of now, I have no experience in buying used C10 engines.

And yes, I have a PM out to SiSF to get the overflow tube mod done. Wish me luck.  Luckily I have other bikes to entertain myself with, but it doesn't mean I am happy about this.  And my Civic needs a timing belt, better get on that right now before I have 2 catastrophic failures near simulataneously, don't think my wallet (or heart) could stand that.

I appreciate all the assistance you guys can provide.

[T Cro ®]

1) Many can survive without any damage at all; just as many have continued to be run with a tiny bend in the rod without the owner even knowing.

2) Just unplug the red wire going to your stick coil harness and their will be no spark...

[Cholla]

Unfortunately even after Steve does his fine work on the carbs you will still have the crappy needles and seats (the seats are not replaceable) and the problem will crop up again. This time the gas will be all over the garage floor.
No offense implied toward Steve.
Flame suit on! (Especially with all this gas all over the place)

[PlaynInPeoria]

Did I mention I left it on prime?  But even on prime, the floats etc should have kept the gas out of the cylinder.

I don't care about gas on the floor. If his kit will keep me from hydrolocking, I will be a happy guy.

[SteveJ.]

The percentage really doesn't matter, but you can hope. Doesn't sound good, though.

With a little luck, it will be number 2 or 3 cylinder. The case does not have to be split to do these. That is usually the determining factor on buying used or repairing for most folks.

Good Luck.

[Cholla]

PiP, that's exactly my point. The needles SHOULD keep it from flooding but they don't. Steve's overflow tubes keep your bike from hydrolocking, which is good but it doesn't solve the problem.

[Steve in Sunny Fla]

I've done a about a couple hundred sets of carbs now, and I don't agree with cholla's assessment of the needle seat. Now the needles, there is an issue there. The stock needles have very soft springs in them,and as they age they're overcome by the float pressure and start letting the fuel levels gradually slip upwards. Additionally, they have issues with ethanol attacking the bodies and deforming the tips. I use aftermarket needles with stainless steel bodies and much stiffer springs. Not saying they'll last forever, but they certainly control fuel levels better and more consistently. Steve

[Mettler1]

PiP, that's exactly my point. The needles SHOULD keep it from flooding but they don't. Steve's overflow tubes keep your bike from hydrolocking, which is good but it doesn't solve the problem.

  Hey, I'm always open to a better mouse trap. Let me know when you make one!!

[PlaynInPeoria]

PiP, that's exactly my point. The needles SHOULD keep it from flooding but they don't. Steve's overflow tubes keep your bike from hydrolocking, which is good but it doesn't solve the problem.

Let me be clear:

Gas on the floor = small problem

Blowing an engine = BIG PROBLEM.

I hope to hell this thing is ok. 

[JDM]

I've done a about a couple hundred sets of carbs now, and I don't agree with cholla's assessment of the needle seat. Now the needles, there is an issue there. The stock needles have very soft springs in them,and as they age they're overcome by the float pressure and start letting the fuel levels gradually slip upwards. Additionally, they have issues with ethanol attacking the bodies and deforming the tips. I use aftermarket needles with stainless steel bodies and much stiffer springs. Not saying they'll last forever, but they certainly control fuel levels better and more consistently. Steve

Steve, have you ever figured out what the cracking pressure is to unseat needles and cause failure in the float system.

[Outback_Jon]

Steve, have you ever figured out what the cracking pressure is to unseat needles and cause failure in the float system.

Would probably be different pressure depending on if the bike was on the sidestand or the centerstand, due to how the gas in the carbs pushes against the floats.  (Less pressure when on the sidestand) 

[Steve in Sunny Fla]

...and also the spring pressure applied by the needles, which varies from needle to needle - Steve

[PlaynInPeoria]

Update: I did the "rod check" as recommended by TCro and it seemed ok. I pulled the plugs and got the gas out, then changed the oil.  I spun it with the starter with the plugs out, no bad noises.  Then I put the plugs in without the stick coils powered, still sounded ok.  So I fired it up and it seems to run ok.  I am in the process of hopefully getting SiSF's carb mod to prevent this in the future. I may have gotten lucky, but I ain't going to the well again on that one!

Thanks to all that replied.

[SteveJ.]

Congrats.

[Cholla]

Bent rod-small problem.
Gas on floor fumes reach water heater/whatever, blown house. HUGE problem. I used K&L needles after polishing the seats (a jeweler polished them) and they refused to seal. New Kaw needles and they sealed perfectly. Too bad they cost 4x the price of the K&L units.

[Steve in Sunny Fla]

if this was a couple years ago or more, the issue wasn't the needles per se, it was the wire hangers on the needles. they were way to big, and twisted around on the float tang, which would cause the needle to hang up and not seat. HTH, Steve

[SmokinRZ]

Bent rod-small problem.
Gas on floor fumes reach water heater/whatever, blown house. HUGE problem. I used K&L needles after polishing the seats (a jeweler polished them) and they refused to seal. New Kaw needles and they sealed perfectly. Too bad they cost 4x the price of the K&L units.

I bought needles advertised as OEM a few years ago from Sudco for about $50.  They look just like the originals to me so I have no reason to doubt they were not OEM, but some here had there doubts.  Sudco specializes in motorcycle carbs and has been around for many decades.       

[SteveJ.]

Bent rod-small problem.
Gas on floor fumes reach water heater/whatever, blown house. HUGE problem....

Not to get TOO bogged down in this, what happens to the gas that is leaking once the cylinder fills up? Hint. It flows into the air filter housing, where it will leak onto the floor.

[Smart a$$]Maybe the answer is to leave the fuel tank outside if it is a concern?[/smart a$$]

My solution is overflow tubes, parked in a garage with an electric water heater and the air handler(furnace for you northern folk ). But I do not sleep out there with it. I figure if it blows up in the garage, it should propel me from the master bedroom out the patio door and into the swimming pool.  Situation under control. 

Then we can build a new house with a decent size garage. Hmmm...

[Elfmaze]

Also check your oil and crank case!  i had a nighthawk that had sticking floats.  i left it on run one day and the gas flowing into my cylinders seeped past my rings and filled the crankcase.  engine blew from having the oil thinned out and case way too full.

[Daytona_Mike]

Not to get TOO bogged down in this, what happens to the gas that is leaking once the cylinder fills up? Hint. It flows into the air filter housing, where it will leak onto the floor.

OMG Steve you are so right. Good thing Cholla pointed this out to us.
Everyone who has a C10 becare full because be our homes are going to possibly all blow up. I have a smoke detector and home insurance and a window next to the bed so I should be OK.
At least  i will sleep well at night just knowing I will have a C10 engine tomorrow because I have overflow tubes.
I have insurace for everything except that.