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The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 / Re: New battery - no Kipass
« Last post by fartymarty on Today at 10:36:47 pm »
I think a lot of people are going to tell you to check the ground connections to the frame, you know, clean it sand it clean it again re-tighten the cable coming from the battery negative terminal to the frame. Me too, but also check the 30 amp master fuse if you haven't already. These are the only points of failure I can think of off hand that don't involve something fried.
No I have no idea why I have A 25 Amp fuse where a 30 amp fuse should be in the photo, I'm sure it's been changed but now I have to go check. Poop!

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Jamie, who's been paying all the medical bills? {His insurance, or yours}
As his insurance low balled you, it might be a good time to bring that, plus pain/suffering, and lost time from work into the negotiation's.
   That, "will" get their attention!

Ride safe, Ted
Since I have an attorney working on that end of the case, I've gotta keep it separate from the loss of the scoot, because I'm going to clean their clock on the medical end of the deal. As far as the negotiations on the bike are concerned, it's a waiting game for now. If they don't fork up a satisfactory amount by the time I'm wrapping up the injury case, I'll let the attorney deal with that also.
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The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 / New battery - no Kipass
« Last post by Sixgun17 on Today at 09:12:35 pm »
I think I've read everything I could find using the Search function, but I didn't see anything that quite matched my problem.  I apologize if I missed it.

I have a 2011 C14 and just now have had to replace the factory battery - no complaints about that! 

I had the battery out for a few days while the new battery was shipped.  New battery shows 13.29v just sitting there with nothing attached.  After installing, I've got no Kipass - or anything else.  I've never had trouble with Kipass before.  My battery connections are solid.  I tried the gray connector trick - nothing.  I looked at all the fuses, but every one I pulled at looked good.

Is it possible I got a lead touching something it shouldn't have when I was reinstalling and fried something?  Any suggestions are welcome.  The big girl has never given me any trouble before, but she's sure being obnoxious right now.
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Here's what the title says
I appreciate all the help guys I read all the threads about the cop versions I could find
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best to do some research on the departments "outfitter", meaning what company originally outfitted that bike, for all the additions and electrical loading placed on it during service.
there wer a couple specific outfitters, that installed stuff, willy nilly, and ran a ton of extra wire, and the end results were the downfall that caused many departments to "blacklist" the C14 as a service machine. It was a fine machine, the issue were the add ons, and manner they were installed, and rendered enough of them into a "dangerously non functioning" machine, by the manner they were modified.
It's really a shame some departments made poor decisions, and chose outfitters that made extremely poor decisions, which caused a big black eye on the C14, with regard to a police bike.
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Buy it if you want it. If it rides out ok you can't get hurt at that price.
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Open Forum / Re: A thread about nothing at all....
« Last post by B.D.F. on Today at 06:23:18 pm »
The 'cylinder' wars between Chevrolet and Chrysler go back almost to the beginning of production automobiles in the US.

By the 1920's, both of those companies, as well as most auto companies in total, were making four- cylinder cars (luxury and limited production vehicles excepted). Ford's Model T, made from 1909 until 1927, was by far the most produced car in the world, and would remain so until the 1980's when the Volkswagen Beetle finally surpassed it in production numbers. Still, by the end of the run, the T was badly dated and sales were dwindling, so Henry Ford decided to bring out the next model, a particular favorite of his and actually called "Henry's Lady", the Model A. This new and very popular model was introduced in 1928 and was expected to have a long run, as the Model T did but everything changed when Chevrolet came out with the in-line six and the advertising slogan 'a six for the price of a four', and that was the first year that Chevrolet ever out- sold Ford (1929). As the story goes, an enraged Henry Fork remarked 'If it is cylinders they want, it is cylinders they will get!' and immediately began work on what we know today as the Ford Flathead V-8 that would go on to power Ford autos for decades. Of course Chevrolet responded much, much later, in 1955, with their own V-8, the 265 cu. in. 'small block', which was again a modern engine with overhead valves. In fact, most people will say that this was Chevrolet's first V-8 but that is not the case.....

Chevrolet actually introduced a V-8 in 1917 to compete with the other, higher- end manufacturers of the day. In fact, this engine, in the 'Model D', was actually very advanced and unlike the 1933 Ford V-8, it had overhead valves, a direct drive rotary distributor and several other futuristic facets. By all accounts, it was a very good design, very robust and reliable and was basically well ahead of its time. Unfortunately, it was also expensive and the bottom line was that people simply would not pay Cadillac, Pierce- Arrow, Packard, et al. prices for the pedestrian moniker 'Chevrolet'. So the original Chevrolet quietly died a quick death after only two years. Today they are rare and extremely sought- after collector cars.

So the "brand new for Chevrolet" V-8 of 1955 was actually almost 40 years later than Chevrolet's real 'first' V-8.

Brian
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If I buy it tomorrow I'll be paying $4,650 for it and it comes with a new clutch kit from Kawasaki police crash bars new tires front and rear a whole bunch of other new goodies it already has a Corbin seat on it and bar risers and a different windshield looks like from the pictures
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"Bottom line; Because of all I said; Unless this bike is an "extremely" good deal, I would opt to buy a stock Connie."

^^^^^^What Ted said.

Unless you have service/maintenance records, you are probably going to start off doing a valve lash check/adjustment.
There is also a good chance the wiring harness has been molested adding cop stuff which you may or may not have to remove.

Let us know which way you go.
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Your moving too fast.Before you buy!!  Check the COG Forum, Craigs List, etc to compare prices.

I know the police versions have some differences than the regular Connie's.
I am not sure what those are.
If they have differences, it may be good or it might be bad as parts could be harder to find.

But, the most difficult thing in answering your question is; we don't know the price you would have to pay for this bike?


Currently the motorcycle market is down. It is VERY easy to find a good price Connie.
  Also (because of the market) it is EZ to find a good price on a Connie that has lots of Farkles already added.
     ie; Seat/windshield/improved power programming, etc etc..
          I'm almost certain that a stock bike {with a Flash} would offer more torque/power than the police bikes.
             {Because the Police are adding these Flashes to their bikes to improve their power}..

Bottom line; Because of all I said; Unless this bike is an "extremely" good deal, I would opt to buy a stock Connie.

Ride safe, Ted




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