Author Topic: battery booster question  (Read 1441 times)

Offline mellow yellow

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battery booster question
« on: August 10, 2018, 07:55:17 AM »
Hello all, I was approached by a co-worker who needed help helping a customer who needed a battery booster to jump his 250cc motorcycle. I told the guy that he shouldn't have any issues using any of the boosters and that there's a main fuse that pops if the system gets overloaded. I've used an old stand alone charger on my Connie and I've also jumped my bike with my f150, as long as I had the truck off. after I got home, I got to thinking, is there any caution/differences boosting a smaller vs. a larger bike? Thanks

Offline maxtog

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Re: battery booster question
« Reply #1 on: August 10, 2018, 09:23:37 AM »
For jumping?  Not really
For charging?  Yes

Smaller bike batteries have much less capacity, so it is important not to overcharge them.   This can happen easily on a "dumb" charger designed for car/truck batteries when set on a high amperage.  When charging lead acid batteries with "dumb" chargers, you have to estimate how much charge they have, know the AH (amp hour) capacity of the battery, and make sure you don't try to push more charge into them than they are designed to hold.  Once charged, trying to push extra current into them will cause resistance to go up and up and create more and more heat.  This heat can seriously and permanently damage the battery and can also cause a fire or explosion.  It is also better to charge smaller batteries at a lower rate, like 1/10th the AH rate (which would be 1.2 or 1.4 amps) so the battery has time to actually deal with the incoming current.  Also, charging a frozen battery is very dangerous.

The stock Concours battery is (or was) a YUASA YTX14-BS which is 12 AH (amp hours) or Furukawa FTZ14-BS which is 14 AH.  So charging at a high level 2A, assuming it is COMPLETELY dead, the maximum time on a charger would be 6 hours (6h x 2A = 12AH).  But batteries are rarely completely dead (and if left that way for a while it is sure to ruin the battery) so 4 hours would be a safer maximum at 2A in this example (or even better, 8 hours at 1A).  Let's assume it was weak and yet half charged and you threw it on a big 12A charger (not recommended AT ALL), in just 30 minutes it could be fully charged (or ruined) so you can see just how quickly one could get into trouble.

Smart chargers which greatly simplify the process and increase safety need not be expensive.  Here is an example:  https://www.amazon.com/BMK-Maintainer-Detachable-Alligator-Waterproof/dp/B06XK7PM9F  Or https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07374QD33

Yeesh, all this talk and I don't even own a smart charger.  Although I have a trickle charger for the Concours (Battery Tender Jr.) I don't have a regular smart charger for car (which often sits a week or longer without moving and then only short trips that don't charge the battery) or lawn mower.  I have put that second link in my cart on Amazon (the Suaoki 4Amp) :)
« Last Edit: August 11, 2018, 11:42:30 AM by maxtog »
Shoodaben (was Guhl) Mountain Runner ECU flash, Canyon Cages front/rear, Helibars risers, Phil's wedges, Grip Puppies, Sargent World seat-low & heated & pod, Muzzy lowering links, Soupy's stand, Nautilus air horn, Admore lightbar, Ronnie's highway pegs, front running lights, all LED, helmet locks, RAM Xgrip, Sena SMH10, Throttle Tamer, MRA X-Creen, BearingUp Shifter, PR4-GT, Scorpion EXO-T1200,etc

Offline mellow yellow

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Re: battery booster question
« Reply #2 on: August 10, 2018, 07:31:09 PM »
Thanks, I don't think the customer took my advice. saw him a little while later in another part of the store sans charger. I forgot to mention that I also informed him to check his owners manual on what it says about boosting his battery. Thanks again.

Offline just gone

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Re: battery booster question
« Reply #3 on: August 10, 2018, 10:06:18 PM »
The stock Concours battery is (or was) a YUASA YTX14-BS which is 12 AH (amp hours). 

Huh?  ???  C14?

I could have swore it was a 14AH battery called a Furukawa FTZ14-BS

Offline maxtog

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Re: battery booster question
« Reply #4 on: August 10, 2018, 10:21:01 PM »
Huh?  ???  C14?

I could have swore it was a 14AH battery called a Furukawa FTZ14-BS

That is why I added that "(or was)" part in there.  I only know what was in mine, stock/new (according to my service notes) and yet it is not uncommon for vehicle companies to change which batteries they use.  I thought the YUASA YTX14-BS was a 14AH battery (hence the "14") but it is 12AH.  Now I wonder if maybe my notes on WHICH battery are wrong, because although the factory manuals don't say WHICH battery is brand or model is stock, both the 2008 and 2011 manuals state only that it is a 12V 14AH battery.

https://www.yuasabatteries.com/battery/ytx14-bs/
« Last Edit: August 11, 2018, 11:46:59 AM by maxtog »
Shoodaben (was Guhl) Mountain Runner ECU flash, Canyon Cages front/rear, Helibars risers, Phil's wedges, Grip Puppies, Sargent World seat-low & heated & pod, Muzzy lowering links, Soupy's stand, Nautilus air horn, Admore lightbar, Ronnie's highway pegs, front running lights, all LED, helmet locks, RAM Xgrip, Sena SMH10, Throttle Tamer, MRA X-Creen, BearingUp Shifter, PR4-GT, Scorpion EXO-T1200,etc

Offline just gone

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Re: battery booster question
« Reply #5 on: August 11, 2018, 10:02:52 AM »
My copy of the shop manual says "FTZ14-BS" pages 16-20; 16-28.

 

Offline maxtog

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Re: battery booster question
« Reply #6 on: August 11, 2018, 11:41:10 AM »
My copy of the shop manual says "FTZ14-BS" pages 16-20; 16-28.

Well I'll be derned; yep, there it is, right on the page you said.  So what exactly is an "FTZ14-BS"?  I searched and searched and nothing matches it well, except some Japanese stuff that is not readable.   Example: https://www.webike.net/sd/1594747/

It appears to be a "Furukawa" brand and is even listed on our own site here: http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=1650.0

So the mystery continues.  My log just says:

04-18-2014 9400 mi
Replaced the original main battery with another of the same model, Yuasa  YTX14-BS off Amazon $69 with free shipping. I tested the "off/standby" current drain on the bike- it was 80mA for the first several seconds, then when the computer goes into full sleep, it was pulling 2.5mA.  Bike starts much better now.


I don't have any other information.  I can say that the YTX14-BS has been going strong/fine, although I always use a Battery Tender Jr. on it, full time, when not riding.
Shoodaben (was Guhl) Mountain Runner ECU flash, Canyon Cages front/rear, Helibars risers, Phil's wedges, Grip Puppies, Sargent World seat-low & heated & pod, Muzzy lowering links, Soupy's stand, Nautilus air horn, Admore lightbar, Ronnie's highway pegs, front running lights, all LED, helmet locks, RAM Xgrip, Sena SMH10, Throttle Tamer, MRA X-Creen, BearingUp Shifter, PR4-GT, Scorpion EXO-T1200,etc

Offline just gone

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Re: battery booster question
« Reply #7 on: August 11, 2018, 01:55:25 PM »
When I went to replace my battery, I came across a lot of 12AH stuff that said it was for the C14. I was determined to get a 14AH battery (because I'm stubborn)
so I finally found one at Batteries Plus+ but it was just a scosh to tall. Rather than modify the battery holder I returned it. Just for grins I checked the dealer prices and
they had two prices. A 12 ah for $96 and the Furakawa OEM 14ah for $117. I chose the Furakawa. The one I returned to Battery Plus was $125.
Lesson learned: Don't let the internet buzz about "stealerships" stop you from checking their prices first.  :-[