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Author Topic: Junction Box Issues  (Read 6228 times)

Offline medicevans

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Junction Box Issues
« on: May 24, 2011, 09:23:50 PM »
Figure I have a junction box issue. I was riding tonight and the headlight went off. Pulled in the clutch and hit the starter button, headlight comes back on. Repeat about 6 or 7 times. On my way back to the barn I got stopped by a train. When I killed the bike to wait, the starter kept buzzing without any input from me.  Got the side cover off and wacked the j box before i burnt the starter motor.  Pulling the wire to the starter solenoid made the headlight go out but didnt stop the starter motor.  Soooooo........I definitely have a j box issue. What are the relays I need to rebuild the stupid thing?  And how do I get it open?
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Offline Rick Hall

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Re: Junction Box Issues
« Reply #1 on: May 24, 2011, 10:08:41 PM »
Aromat: JS1E-12V and NTE: R46-5D3-12 should git ya started. Mouser.com, digikey.com, newark.com are popular online suppliers

Drill out the  heat set rivet heads on the back of the J-box, I think there's five. Just the heads, don't drill into the J-box itself! Remove all fuses, remove the back cover, remove the one phillips head screw, slip the board out. Check for cracked solder joints, and traces, reflow if needed.

Assembly is the reverse, except no real need to weld the back cover back on. The rubber strap will be sufficient.

[edit] George Young has some nice write-ups on his website. Check the Wiki/FAQ section, and http://web.ncf.ca/ag136/jBoxDiagnosis.htm to get ya started.
[end edit]

Rick
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Rick Hall     1994 ZG 1000 "Sam"      xCOG #1914 (CO)
  GfNi H.P.   DOD #2040   1kQSPT 14.16   IBA #3274
    The Kawasaki Concours page at: www.zggtr.org

Offline medicevans

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Re: Junction Box Issues
« Reply #2 on: May 25, 2011, 02:41:50 PM »
Rick, the only relays I can find for the JS1E-12V are MEC brand.  Will this work or do I have to have Aromaut.  And do I only need one relay a piece? 
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Offline Rick Hall

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Re: Junction Box Issues
« Reply #3 on: May 25, 2011, 02:57:31 PM »
Either of the part numbers should work, so will any cross references to them. (I think Aromat was bought out/sold?) I'll see if I can find some cross references tonight

There are three relays in the J-box, all the same.

Rick
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Rick Hall     1994 ZG 1000 "Sam"      xCOG #1914 (CO)
  GfNi H.P.   DOD #2040   1kQSPT 14.16   IBA #3274
    The Kawasaki Concours page at: www.zggtr.org

Offline Rick Hall

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Re: Junction Box Issues
« Reply #4 on: May 25, 2011, 03:42:39 PM »
All of these SHOULD be drop in replacements.

Song Chuan: 812H-1C-S-12VDC (Mouser.com)
Tyco: T7NS5D1-12 (Digikey.com)
Potter & Brumfield: PB380-ND (Digikey.com)
Panasonic: JS1-12V (Digikey.com)

Rick
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Rick Hall     1994 ZG 1000 "Sam"      xCOG #1914 (CO)
  GfNi H.P.   DOD #2040   1kQSPT 14.16   IBA #3274
    The Kawasaki Concours page at: www.zggtr.org

Offline GeeBeav

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Re: Junction Box Issues
« Reply #5 on: May 25, 2011, 08:01:02 PM »
You may not even need the relays. Reflowing all the solder joints will often fix it.
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Offline medicevans

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Re: Junction Box Issues
« Reply #6 on: May 25, 2011, 08:12:43 PM »
Quote from: GeeBeav on May 25, 2011, 08:01:02 PM
You may not even need the relays. Reflowing all the solder joints will often fix it.

You may be right, but $15 is cheap insurance. While I'm in there I might as well fix it right.

Rick, if I read it right, the first two part numbers you specified are two numbers referring to the same relay, correct?  All I need is three relays of the same part number?  Just want to make sure I get it correct the first time.
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Offline Rick Hall

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Re: Junction Box Issues
« Reply #7 on: May 25, 2011, 08:27:09 PM »
All the P/N's are equivalents for the same relay from different mfg's.

You need three.
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Rick Hall     1994 ZG 1000 "Sam"      xCOG #1914 (CO)
  GfNi H.P.   DOD #2040   1kQSPT 14.16   IBA #3274
    The Kawasaki Concours page at: www.zggtr.org
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