Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => Accessories and modifications - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: klb1122 on January 22, 2020, 07:49:06 PM
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After years of dealing with an oil leak, it's time to finally replace the oil pan on my 2008. The new version oil pan should be here in a couple weeks along with the parts I'll be replacing with the swap. I've searched around, but didn't find the answer to this: is any gasket sealant necessary on the new gasket? The service manual doesn't mention it, but I wanted to find out from those that have replaced their oil pan before.
Also, if you encountered any issues or things to watch out for while performing the job, please let me know. I've got it stripped down, exhaust fully off and ready to go, just need the new parts..
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No sealant, just a few blobs of grease to hold it in place on the sump. I used Suzuki 1250 exh header. gaskets as they are much better quality and the same size.
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No sealant, just a few blobs of grease to hold it in place on the sump. I used Suzuki 1250 exh header. gaskets as they are much better quality and the same size.
Thank you! 8)
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No sealant, just a few blobs of grease to hold it in place on the sump. I used Suzuki 1250 exh header. gaskets as they are much better quality and the same size.
You mentioned the exhaust header gaskets, so I went back out into the garage and took a look. I didn't even know they existed because my bike doesn't appear to have any. There were none on the headers and I checked the exhaust ports and no sign of them there either. This is the first time my headers have been removed also. Weird.
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You mentioned the exhaust header gaskets, so I went back out into the garage and took a look. I didn't even know they existed because my bike doesn't appear to have any. There were none on the headers and I checked the exhaust ports and no sign of them there either. This is the first time my headers have been removed also. Weird.
I believe he was saying that instead of using "blobs of grease" on the sump, he used a single, old header gasket from SOME OTHER BIKE as an alternative. It wasn't about C14 headers. Of course, perhaps I misread it...
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I believe he was saying that instead of using "blobs of grease" on the sump, he used a single, old header gasket from SOME OTHER BIKE as an alternative. It wasn't about C14 headers. Of course, perhaps I misread it...
Uh-oh, one of us misread, that's for sure. ;D
Hopefully @Freddy can clear this up.
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A few blobs of grease to hold oil pan/sump gasket in place while lifting pan into place.
The Kaw header gaskets are a a thin copper covered ring which are poor quality IMO, but they are probably covered in soot and still in the exh ports and will need to be 'hooked' out. Suzuki 1200/1250 exh rings are the same size and much more robust and seal better. Chech ebay for them.
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Uh-oh, one of us misread, that's for sure. ;D Hopefully @Freddy can clear this up.
I guess it was me! Thankfully, too, since it didn't make much sense to me :)
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A few blobs of grease to hold oil pan/sump gasket in place while lifting pan into place.
The Kaw header gaskets are a a thin copper covered ring which are poor quality IMO, but they are probably covered in soot and still in the exh ports and will need to be 'hooked' out. Suzuki 1200/1250 exh rings are the same size and much more robust and seal better. Chech ebay for them.
Perfect! Thanks again!
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I guess it was me! Thankfully, too, since it didn't make much sense to me :)
;D ;D ;D
You had me laughing!
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A fellow rider down here has just discovered that his annoying oil leak is from the oil pressure switch - check that out.
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A fellow rider down here has just discovered that his annoying oil leak is from the oil pressure switch - check that out.
Mine has been leaking for years. Sad to say, I only ride it once or twice a year if I'm lucky. A couple years back, I tore into it and determined I had a leak from the Exhaust Cam Position Sensor. I thought all was good after that, but the leak continued. Finally made time to dig into it this week. The oil pan was a mess. Cleaned it all up and let it sit for a day. It's leaking out of this little ding, that was located directly above where the headers run under the oil pan. Once it's fixed, I'll miss the smoke show after the bike warmed up. :-[
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JB Weld should fix that.
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JB Weld should fix that.
LOL, I was thinking the same thing :)
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LOL, I was thinking the same thing :)
Ditto. I read that and thought “JB weld that Schmidt!”
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Ditto. I read that and thought “JB weld that Schmidt!”
Quite possibly/probably will work, but then having a less exposed drain plug wouldn't be gained (assuming that the replacement is the updated one.)
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Quite possibly/probably will work, but then having a less exposed drain plug wouldn't be gained (assuming that the replacement is the updated one.)
Ding ding ding! Half of the reason I'm doing it is to have the newer design pan with the plug not exposed.
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That would be an excellent reason.
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That would be an excellent reason.
Agreed.
I will add that a few weeks ago I did something stupid... I went directly over a large speed bump, something I almost never do. With my C14 lowered, this was not a good idea. It whacked the oil pan or something under there. Thankfully there was no damage this time, but it quickly reminded me that there are things under there that are vulnerable. Had it been a gen 1, I might have been stranded...
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Well, parts came in and I finally had a chance to start working on the swap last night. Everything went fine, as far as I know, but I didn't realize I would also need the "PIPE,OIL FILTER Part# 32033-1535". I tried to get the one out of the old oil pan, and I'm not sure how it's possible. I tried a few different things, and ended up messing up the threads a bit, so I quit and just ordered a new one. Luckily it's in stock, so it shouldn't take too long to get here. Once I get that in I can fill it with oil to make sure there are no leaks, then put the rest back together.
Anyone have a similar experience with that part? I'm a little worried about being able to tighten the new piece when I get it without messing up the threads.
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I'm a little worried about being able to tighten the new piece when I get it without messing up the threads.
Perhaps get a couple of 3/4-16 20mm-1.5 jam nuts (they are thinner than regular nuts) from Fastenal and tighten them against each other to install the threaded pipe?
I'm pretty sure that the filter uses 3/4-16 threads but I could be wrong, 20mm-1.5 threads. I'd try jam nuts on the old one and see if 1) they fit the threads, 2)
see if you can loosen the old one and use it on the new oil pan?
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shove a piece of threaded rod, thru the section, add nut/washer/nut on each end, tightening well, then use that to unthread the pipe from the case.. probably $5 in hardware at Lowe's.. to make the removal tool. Depending on install vs removal, you may have to swap ends with wrench, on which direction you are turning it with the wrench, i.e. inside, or exterior.. but I think you can get the drift of it from that. good luck, you can do it.
For removal, you will wrench from the inside, that will unscrew the pipe, for install, you wrench from the outside, and that will tighten it back in...
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Perhaps get a couple of 3/4-16 20mm-1.5 jam nuts (they are thinner than regular nuts) from Fastenal and tighten them against each other to install the threaded pipe?
I'm pretty sure that the filter uses 3/4-16 threads but I could be wrong, 20mm-1.5 threads. I'd try jam nuts on the old one and see if 1) they fit the threads, 2)
see if you can loosen the old one and use it on the new oil pan?
Thanks, I'll look into that.
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oh, and the same part is used on both pans, so if you don't damage it, you got it for the cost of making the tool I noted above.
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oh, and the same part is used on both pans, so if you don't damage it, you got it for the cost of making the tool I noted above.
I've already damaged the one on my old pan, trying to remove it like a barbarian. :-[
I read you post above about a removal/installation tool, but it's not making sense to me. I think I see what you're saying, but in my mind it only works if you're able to run the threaded rod through the pipe and access both ends. That's not the case with the oil pan though, you can only get to the part on the outside of the pan, the other side of the pipe is not accessible from the inside of the oil pan.
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sorry, my bad, I assumed the hole was threaded "thru', and could be accessed, also from inside.... I didn't know it was threaded to an "internal shoulder/stop" which it sounds like you describe.
again, sorry. I was going by photos, manual, and microfiche diagrams. best of luck. To remove it tho, you might use an extractor bit that fits inside the tube, kinda like an "easy out" tool.
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sorry, my bad, I assumed the hole was threaded "thru', and could be accessed, also from inside.... I didn't know it was threaded to an "internal shoulder/stop" which it sounds like you describe.
again, sorry. I was going by photos, manual, and microfiche diagrams. best of luck. To remove it tho, you might use an extractor bit that fits inside the tube, kinda like an "easy out" tool.
Not a problem! I didn't know if I was missing something from your description. Thanks for your help.
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I've already damaged the one on my old pan, trying to remove it like a barbarian. :-[
One might be tempted to use the ....sorry...it's hard to say it............the red thread locker that comes in the blue tube (what's up wit dat? anyway?) on the new one
during the install...however, I suggest ordering two of the threaded pipes (just because I love spending other people's money :) ) and using blue thread locker (that comes in the red tube :doh: ) on one during the install.
Keeping the spare handy for the time where you are changing oil the night before a trip and the one you installed comes out firmly stuck in the old oil filter.
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I completely overthought the threaded tube that holds the oil filter on. The new one arrived and it threaded in easily until it came to a stop. I tightened it with my hand as much as I could, then put the new oil filter on. Put the exhaust back on and it fired right up. Leaving the plastics off for another day to make sure of no oil leaks anywhere then I'll button her back up. I should have done this years ago.
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Project completed. Dressed her back up today. 8)