GTR 1000 Carburettor

[LT South Africa]

Just to report back. Not being able to afford other carbs now I removed, stripped and cleaned the carbs for the umpteenth time. On every re installation I had the exact symptoms.  Realizing there must be more to the sluggish and iratic response from the bike I decided to go the full monty.  Checked valve clearenace several times. Still the same symptoms. Removed spark plugs. And cleaned.  I noticed that the cap seal for cylinder 1 had a strange color on the outside which I can only describe as looking like rust. And the cap was wet/moist under the outer seal. I decided to run the motor and remove the spark plug HT cap to see if there was any difference in the motor. Starting to pull the HT cap off with my fingers all was going well. Then grabbing the lower end of the cap to remove it from the engine I got a wallop of a shock. I dropped the HT cap and it rested on the tappet cover. I noticed current jumping from both of the side's of the HT cap to the tappet cover. Realizing the HT cap was disintegrating in quality with a cut on each side causing the current to jump to earth and robbing the engine of much needed power and causing me to run on maybe just a little more than 3 cylinders. I wrapped the HT cap in insulation tape. To be safe I did all 3 other plugs HT caps as well. What a surprise.  The bike started and idled smoothly. I then took it for a drive and experienced the smoothest drive I have ever had. Seems this was the source of my problems from the word go. Even though I have the wrong carbs with K&N racing pods. I did a long drive this morning and calculated my fuel consumption at just over 18 km per litre.  I'm happy with this. Very happy actually. Thanx for all your in put guys.  It is very appreciated. 

[Nosmo]

There is an old mechanic's saying: "75% of all carb problems are in the ignition."

Also: "80% of all ignition problems are the carbs."

When it runs bad you have to check EVERYTHING.

Glad you found your problem.

[tweeter55]

I did a long drive this morning and calculated my fuel consumption at just over 18 km per litre.  I'm happy with this. Very happy actually. Thanx for all your in put guys.  It is very appreciated. 

[LT South Africa]

Managed to eventually source a set of CVK carbs here in RSA. Cleaned them up. New jets and float needle. Installed them and hit the starter switch. Experienced the sweetest engine sound this bike has ever had. Worlds apart from the VE carbs. The bikes quieter. Drives well and now feels like a true tourer. I can vouch for it. The original CVK carbs make this bike heaven to ride.

[connie_rider]

Great news!
Were you able to also get a stock air filter box?

Ride safe, Ted

[LT South Africa]

Thanx Ted. I will have to wait and order a airbox from your side of the world in a couple of months. I don't find one in RSA and ex Japan new is far too expensive

[connie_rider]

Maybe someone will read this that has a spare?
Anyone???

Ride safe, Ted

[LT South Africa]

Bike running well for a few days. Then very poor response on top end again. As if something was blocking the system. Did a strip down and started comparing jet sizes, jet needle size etc with what the manual says. Nothing matches. I'm thinking the Keihin agency has supplied me with the wrong parts or I just have the wrong carbs again. Please help me out here. The carbs say CVK at the top. 3/4 way down it says Keihin. Below that is printed V552 FH20. What does this represent? Is this the correct CVK carbs for the Concours 1000? Wish I could post a picture here of what I have

[connie_rider]

Looks similar, but not exact..
Mine are V251 QHL. But different years may vary.

Not sure if right carbs,,, BUT,,,.The fact that it ran well and then went back to what it was doing indicates it isn't the carbs.
May be as simple as it's starving for gas. Check to see the fuel hose isn't kinked..

Or,, spark plug wires and caps.
Remove, clean and tighten the caps..

Ride safe, Ted

[LT South Africa]

The only thing of note I can add is that I had brand new needles which I installed. The floats were at 20 and 21 mm with the new needles. Obviously the old needles springyness, for want of a better word, was non exsistant. So i adjusted the floats back down to 17mm with the new needles. When I opened the carbs again I noted that my floats were riding at 19mm again. So I adjusted them down again to 17mm. A possible mistake I made last time is I laid the carbs flat and adjusted the floats from the top. Then after reading posts here I realised my mistake and now adjusted the floats holding the carbs at an angle with the tang just touching the needle. I get revs upto 6000rpm easy. After that it's labouring. But in all fairness. I don't expect touch after 6000rpm.  Remember I don't have the original airbox and the CVK need that airbox vacume for the slides to work properly. However, now on pull off I am sludgy where before I had good revs. A little more twist of the throttle response gets better. I would just like to confirm that I do have the right carbs before ordering brand new kits which I think I need.

[RFH87_Connie]

Mine are V251 AJ08.  This is a US made 1987 Connie (A2 I guess it would be).  I think I might have a mostly complete set of carbs that I would probably never need and maybe an airbox.  I keep reading this but forget to look.

[Jim __]

The 17mm float level adjustment is a starting point for getting the fuel level correct in the bowls.  Look for the fuel level inspection procedure in the manual which will set the fuel level 0.5 mm (+/- 1mm) above the mating surfaces of the carb body and float bowl.  This  eliminates any variances caused by differences in the spring tension in the needle assembly.

[LT South Africa]

I have tried the fuel level way but I fail horribly at this. I live in a small cottage with no garage / carport or place to work. My sitting room doubles as a workshop most days. Lol.....

But I will try again.....

I have managed to restore much of the bike. Even a brand new paint job which I did myself. All on a very low budget. But it's the only transport I have. And she's a beautiful bike. I have never seen another one here in South Africa. Only 25 only ever came into South Africa .

One way or another. I will win this round. 😎

[RFH87_Connie]

The fuel height is the only way most of is ever set these up.  The minute variations of needle springs make it almost impossible to set if you do it the measurement way - at least for most people.  Here's my rig when ever it's needed.  Should be pretty simple to mimic.  Just DON'T do it in the house!  You could replace the tank with a small container.

[RFH87_Connie]

P.S. - just do one bowl at a time then move to the next one.

[LT South Africa]

I think I can construct something like that. Will give it a try. My carbs do look different to yours. But I think it's more to do with your emmision control laws. My basic carbs matches yours. Without those extra pipes...

[LT South Africa]

Before.....

[LT South Africa]

And after

[gPink]

Nice work LT 

[connie_rider]

Looks good.

Ride safe, Ted