Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: Awaz on May 29, 2012, 01:30:19 PM
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I see a small streak of oil path down my left fork. No dripping yet, but that side is moist with oil. What is the urgency factor to get this fixed? I have not called the dealer yet. And would love to have a recommendation for a good dealer around central illinois or St Louis area.
The one in Sprigfield, IL is closest, but not sure how good they are.
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I would spend $5 and clean it with a SealMate before taking it to the dealer.
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Seal Mate the Tool that Fixes Leaking Fork Seals (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wlzfoVroSY#ws)
Interesting. Never knew something like that existed. Thanks, Clyde.
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that is awesome. its worth a try for sure if you have a leak cuz theres nothing to lose!
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I don't have a leak but I've got about 48k on the fluid and seals. Think it's probably time to change them out.
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I've fixed leaks on 3 bikes w/ the SealMate. As noted, if the fork oil is old or the leak has been going on a while, a fork oil change is still a good idea. Seals can last a long time if they are not actually damaged.
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It is a must to keep bugs off your forks, I am beyond anal retentive about that. The guards do help allot, but bugs and road grime can cause leaks for sure "but can be fixed" as you have seen. ;)
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That's really slick. Great info.
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I'm at 53,000 on my '10, if I see my seals appear to be leaking I'm changing to a fresh battery in my KiPass (http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/avatars/badteeth.gif)
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If you have OLD film roll, it also works great. What ever you use no sharp points. The seals are not hard to do. If you take your time and clean them well you may not have to. Also if you do the job yourself be sure to set up a clean area and take care not damage or scratch the tubes.
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Well, looks like it happened to me. I started noticing what I thought was a spot on the left side ground near the front weel a few weeks ago. I had been mostly riding at night, so I didn't see much with a flashlight. The spot was oily, but mixed with other stuff and impossible to identify. So I cleaned it well and waited. Noticed it again last night, so today I went in for a good look. BOTH forks are leaking (32,600 miles, never touched). I took photos first, then I cleaned them lightly with paper towels and reassessed (and took another photo). At the front bottom of both tubes, it was not smooth. So I removed the reflectors and the bolts that held the fender for better access. I was unable to remove the stupid brake line retainer clips so I couldn't get the fender all the way off. I then moved to bug/tar remover spray on the towels and worked on it. Then I moved to a sharp piece of soft wood to try and scrape. And I soaked the wood in bug cleaner and scraped and scraped and worked on it until I finally gave up (then removed the bug cleaner and cleaned up everywhere the oil had leaked).
There are still some rough areas that feel like perhaps scratches or pits in the metal, only at the bottom inch or so of the front of each tube). Not willing to try anything more drastic at this point. Put fender back. Then started the bike and ran forward and stopped hard, several times. Each time, the top few inches of the tubes were coated in a very thin layer of clean fork oil. This is probably my fault for not realizing how important it must be to keep the tubes clean, ESPECIALLY in the barely accessible areas at the front near the bottom.
I am not sure how much oil I have lost.
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I am not sure how much oil I have lost.
Yep, rode twice tonight and stopped at 30 miles each and they are still weeping. Ordering the Seal Mate. But checked the factory manual and I don't see any way to check level or add oil/fluid without totally removing the fork tubes. :(
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Just had mine redone. Going to start installing them back this afternoon.
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Are they still in the Dodge?
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Nope. Leaning against the work bench at the moment and not on the shelf.
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I had a leaky left fork too. I replaced the seals twice before I realized something else was wrong. Upon closer inspection, I saw I had a super small vertical scratch in the tube that was allowing fluid bypass. I used some fine emory cloth and got her back to normal. There have been no leaks since!
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I had a leaky left fork too. I replaced the seals twice before I realized something else was wrong. Upon closer inspection, I saw I had a super small vertical scratch in the tube that was allowing fluid bypass. I used some fine emory cloth and got her back to normal. There have been no leaks since!
That is one of my concerns about that rough area I discovered that would not clean. I hadn't researched polishing the area yet- my initial thought would be I could do more damage than just leaving it alone. My "Sealmate" should arrive tomorrow and I will attempt to clean the seals as soon as possible, if I can figure out how to remove the damn "brake hose clamps" on the fender. The factory manual is utterly unhelpful, it just says "remove" them with no indication as to how. I pulled and pulled and twisted and rocked and pulled and gave up, convinced I would break them. A mechanic, I am not.
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That is one of my concerns about that rough area I discovered that would not clean. I hadn't researched polishing the area yet- my initial thought would be I could do more damage than just leaving it alone. My "Sealmate" should arrive tomorrow and I will attempt to clean the seals as soon as possible, if I can figure out how to remove the damn "brake hose clamps" on the fender. The factory manual is utterly unhelpful, it just says "remove" them with no indication as to how. I pulled and pulled and twisted and rocked and pulled and gave up, convinced I would break them. A mechanic, I am not.
IIRC....got behind it (tire side) with a needle nose. Have to squeeze it together to slip it thru hole. Also why I cut them off afterwards and use black zip ties to hold hose now. Or....after you commit to taking the things off your bike, just cut them where they hold the hose so they no longer are holding the hose. Then you are able to get fender off and you can deal with a suitable replacement.
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I cut mine off (easy boys) and left them off. Hoses don't flop around. If you're anal and have to have them you can always buy a bag of spares.
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I broke off my hose retaining clips as well. I just got mad at them and yanked 'em off. IIRC the "best" way to remove them is to (remove the wheel?), then place a socket (5mm???) over the nubs that stick through while pulling from the outside. The "better" way (my way :) ) is to just break them off and then drill another hole about 1/4 inch lower than the clip hole and run a cable tie through both holes and cinch it down and trim. Now you'll have a vertical band that you can easily slip a new cable tie through and around the hose (not cinched down tight) when ever you need to remove the fender. gPink's way might just be good enough, but I have two sets of wires going down each side that need to be secured as well so I like having an attach point there.
Yeah, my right seal is leaking too now at 75+k. Are seals considered wear items like brake pads?...or are they covered under warranty?
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Yeah, my right seal is leaking too now at 75+k. Are seals considered wear items like brake pads?...or are they covered under warranty?
I've always considered them a wear item. Although I know someone in Miami that had them replaced under warranty around the 100K mark.
So it's anybody's guess.
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Thanks for the replies. I am glad I am not the ONLY one who has had issues trying to remove those damn clips! I am the type of person who would really want to not damage them/remove them and replace them with just ties. The Sealmate is in my hand now (wow it is thin/flimsy), I am not sure I can use it with the fender in the way, but I think I will try and post back....
As for the seals, I am going to guess they might consider that a wear item, but like others have said, who knows? I figure it is certainly worth trying a $7 tool and 30 minutes to see if I can fix it myself.
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Thanks for the replies. I am glad I am not the ONLY one who has had issues trying to remove those damn clips! I am the type of person who would really want to not damage them/remove them and replace them with just ties. The Sealmate is in my hand now (wow it is thin/flimsy), I am not sure I can use it with the fender in the way, but I think I will try and post back....
That didn't take long. I was able to do the procedure with just removing the fender bolts and leaving it attached to the brake lines. I could then push it enough out of the way. The tool is really flimsy and thin (maybe 1/3 tthe thickness of a credit card) and easily damaged. Cleaned forks again, moved dust covers down using a small flat screwdriver. Cleaned above where they were, used the tool twice on each seal. First attempt nearly ruined the tool- it is too fragile to try and push up the hooked end so tried again with the larger body of the tool and then rocked it to feed the hook into the seal. Spun it around twice and pulled out and cleaned then repeated then did other side.
It is fun to watch people actually compress the forks using their body on the videos (usually small bikes). That ain't happening with my 150lbs and the Concours, so I had to bolt the fenders back on and ride it, slamming on the brakes repeatedly to compress the suspension. After several I stopped and checked and there was still fluid. Cleaned that off and did it again another 15 times or so and it doesn't seem to be leaking any more! Used tool to clean dust covers, cleaned forks, then pushed the seals back and finished up.
I won't know if this really worked until a real ride this weekend, but so far, it seems like it might be the real deal.
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I broke off my hose retaining clips as well. I just got mad at them and yanked 'em off. IIRC the "best" way to remove them is to (remove the wheel?), then place a socket (5mm???) over the nubs that stick through while pulling from the outside. The "better" way (my way :) ) is to just break them off and then drill another hole about 1/4 inch lower than the clip hole and run a cable tie through both holes and cinch it down and trim. Now you'll have a vertical band that you can easily slip a new cable tie through and around the hose (not cinched down tight) when ever you need to remove the fender. gPink's way might just be good enough, but I have two sets of wires going down each side that need to be secured as well so I like having an attach point there.
Yeah, my right seal is leaking too now at 75+k. Are seals considered wear items like brake pads?...or are they covered under warranty?
Being new to the Concours, I have no experience with this issue. Just looking at the clips on mine, it looks like a zip tie push pin anchor would work if someone doesn't want to drill holes in their fender. the ones pictured below would allow you to clip and replace the zip tie without removing the anchor
(https://www.waytekwire.com/images/items/21371FL.gif)
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Being new to the Concours, I have no experience with this issue. Just looking at the clips on mine, it looks like a zip tie push pin anchor would work if someone doesn't want to drill holes in their fender. the ones pictured below would allow you to clip and replace the zip tie without removing the anchor
Those are neat
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I won't know if this really worked until a real ride this weekend, but so far, it seems like it might be the real deal.
It is the real deal!! $7 plastic strip, 30 min of fiddling, and all fixed! I would say that is a total success. Highly recommend.
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Maybe you run out of oil? ;D
Wayne
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:)
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:rotflmao: exactly..
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Hardy, har, har...
I really don't know how much oil was lost. I can't tell any difference with the handling. I am guessing I lost maybe 2 to 4cc.
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You've got a 2011 and it's now 2018. You probably need to get the fluid changed and new seals.
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Ug. Left fork leaking on 01-12-2020. Followed same procedure as 01-20-2018 with the cleaning, then the plastic tool. Tested and it seemed OK. Then 02-16-2020, leaking again. Cleaned it again. And today it is leaking AGAIN. Ug. Going out now to clean it yet again.
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Ug. Left fork leaking on 01-12-2020. Followed same procedure as 01-20-2018 with the cleaning, then the plastic tool. Tested and it seemed OK. Then 02-16-2020, leaking again. Cleaned it again. And today it is leaking AGAIN. Ug. Going out now to clean it yet again.
Might be time to polish the tubes and replace the seals. Good luck!
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well, if there are no visible nicks.. polishing anything is not really gonna do anything but waste time.. just mentioning that... cleaning seals, using solvents and "seal friendly pokey scrapers" may help.. but I'm still on my OEM's from '07 issue, never dicked with them ever.. , always reconsider every time I think "I SHOULD" replace fork oil.. hell. I guess I'm just lucky
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well, if there are no visible nicks.. polishing anything is not really gonna do anything but waste time.. just mentioning that... cleaning seals, using solvents and "seal friendly pokey scrapers" may help.. but I'm still on my OEM's from '07 issue, never dicked with them ever.. , always reconsider every time I think "I SHOULD" replace fork oil.. hell. I guess I'm just lucky
Agreed. My experience from traveling to Alaska last year on the dirty, muddy, sloshy roads did my tubes in. They were scratched up and needed attention. My right seal had been seeping before the trip and I used the sealmate to remove dirt. They seemed to work for a while, but ultimately they gave out during the trip. I suspect that if you’re constantly having to use the sealmate to clean your seals, and they begin leaking again and again, the seals are done and/or the tubes need a good polish.
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The forks are very smooth, with the exception of a little rough spot on both of them, in the front at the very bottom. That area that is impossible to see, and really difficult to get to. I tried using bug/tar remover, brake cleaner, and several other chemicals and nothing removes it. So perhaps it is damage in the metal? My friend has one of those "cameras on a snake", maybe I can borrow it so I can see it. I have never taken the fender all the way off, just move it around for access, which is not enough to see. I think the right brake hose clamp is an issue the one time I thought about removing it completely.
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The SealMates are pretty good but if you want a really trick tool for cleaning dirt out of your oil seals you should try the Seal Doctor from Risk Racing. I've fixed fork seal leaks on three bikes with these now...love em. I think they are easier to use than the SealMate and do a better job.
https://riskracing.com/pages/seal-doctor
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I would think that cleaning out the seals, if they are leaking from debris, should be done as soon as possible in case the debris damages the seal permanently.
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The SealMates are pretty good but if you want a really trick tool for cleaning dirt out of your oil seals you should try the Seal Doctor from Risk Racing. I've fixed fork seal leaks on three bikes with these now...love em. I think they are easier to use than the SealMate and do a better job.
https://riskracing.com/pages/seal-doctor
That does look like a much better design that is easier to use.
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I would think that cleaning out the seals, if they are leaking from debris, should be done as soon as possible in case the debris damages the seal permanently.
Agreed. It seems it is important to inspect and clean the fork tubes regularly, too. Something I suspect most of us don't do. I learned my lesson, and I hope my seals aren't permanently damaged. I wish it were easier- it is very difficult to get to the inside and front of the tube, especially the lower sections. I have been working on my technique now.
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That does look like a much better design that is easier to use.
$25.....?????????
30 seconds with a pair of sharp scissors, and a discarded 2 liter pop bottle, and I can make a dozen... and have a drink while doing so... :rotflmao: :chugbeer: :chugbeer:
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$25.....?????????
30 seconds with a pair of sharp scissors, and a discarded 2 liter pop bottle, and I can make a dozen... and have a drink while doing so... :rotflmao: :chugbeer: :chugbeer:
$15 on eBay or $9 if you want to wait for China shipping. Much easier to use as getting around the fender is a pain, but doable. Seal Mates are $6-8 on eBay. But you certainly can make your own with a 2 liter bottle, pretty easily. I wouldn’t spend $25 but would consider $15.
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how many miles? The selamate did wonders until the 110k mark when I replaced the oil and seals.
-David
Dunwoody, GA
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how many miles?
If you are asking me, first incident was 32K miles. Last was 44K miles.
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You need to ride it more, Max!
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You need to ride it more, Max!
Depending on weather (no rain) I ride year-round, about twice a week.
My 200937 G just hit 30K; so the bike gets a lot more miles :)
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If you are asking me, first incident was 32K miles. Last was 44K miles.
Discovered the left fork was leaking again, badly right at flipping 49,000 miles. I didn’t catch it until 60 miles away on a trip. When I stopped it actually dripped on the pavement and had slung some onto the fairing and was on the outside of the calipers. Mopped it up and limped home the smoothest way possible. At home I discovered a drip pool in the bike tent, so I was leaking the previous trip, and I think it was on the way home last night when I hit a bad pot hole.
I was able to use the Sealmate several times and stop the leaking. The fluid is clear, a lot like baby oil, and I think I lost multiple tablespoons. I still don't know at what point the level is low enough to cause a problem or what I am supposed to notice, handling-wise.
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Discovered the left fork was leaking again, badly right at flipping 49,000 miles. I didn’t catch it until 60 miles away on a trip. When I stopped it actually dripped on the pavement and had slung some onto the fairing and was on the outside of the calipers. Mopped it up and limped home the smoothest way possible. At home I discovered a drip pool in the bike tent, so I was leaking the previous trip, and I think it was on the way home last night when I hit a bad pot hole.
I was able to use the Sealmate several times and stop the leaking. The fluid is clear, a lot like baby oil, and I think I lost multiple tablespoons. I still don't know at what point the level is low enough to cause a problem or what I am supposed to notice, handling-wise.
If my feeble memory serves me right they only hold 5 oz each, so multiple tablespoons means you're gonna be low. I'd say it's time to pull them off, check the forks for nicks & replace the seals. At 49,000 miles you're past due for a fluid change anyway.
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If my feeble memory serves me right they only hold 5 oz each, so multiple tablespoons means you're gonna be low. I'd say it's time to pull them off, check the forks for nicks & replace the seals. At 49,000 miles you're past due for a fluid change anyway.
Yeah. I guess I will add it to my soon-than-years-from-now list. :(
It might be a while before I can get to it, especially since it is getting cold fast. I hope I am not in any immediate danger.
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If my feeble memory serves me right they only hold 5 oz each, so multiple tablespoons means you're gonna be low.
I thought 5 oz capacity was shockingly low (pun intended). It is 15 oz each, so I am guessing even losing an entire ounce isn't going to be too horrible. I rode it today for the first time since I stopped that last big leak and cleaned it well and I didn't notice any difference in handling. Was only 60 miles, though. Tomorrow I will be riding 150 miles or so, which will be a better test. I am leaving the Sealmate on the bike from now on, though.
Although they are more prone to leaking now than before, the last leak is kinda my own fault, since I forgot to check and clean the forks regularly (had I done that in the past, it probably would never have gotten to this point).
I'd say it's time to pull them off, check the forks for nicks & replace the seals.
I finally looked up the procedure. There are all several special tools needed to actually replace the seal. So I think this is something I will have to get a bike shop to do. Dern.
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I thought 5 oz capacity was shockingly low (pun intended). It is 15 oz each, so I am guessing even losing an entire ounce isn't going to be too horrible.
You are correct & I stand corrected. In my defense though, I did use the words IF & feeble memory! ;D
If they leak to bad fluid could get on your brake pads & ruin them also, not to mention possible braking issues.
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I finally looked up the procedure. There are all several special tools needed to actually replace the seal. So I think this is something I will have to get a bike shop to do. Dern.
Had another 3 incidents of leaking (left, then right, then right), then using Seal Mate. Seems to fix it only a random amount of time before one or the other seal will leak again, no matter how carefully I keep the tube clean.
I finally got around to calling my local non-dealer about it. $300 parts and labor for replacing the seals, which seems reasonable. However, he was asking me about the slight damage I can feel with my fingernail on the lower, front side of each tube. They can’t know if the tubes really need replacing until they are removed. If they do need replacement, the tubes are $536 EACH!!!!!! So it could cost me over $1436!! I had no idea it could be that insanely expensive. Plus, they are running 3 weeks behind and getting worse.
Has anyone actually had to replace the tubes before due to a few nicks? Could a few nicks really result in such an extreme expense??? I have a feeling I will wait until Fall, if I can, have only the seals replaced and take my chances that the few nicks will not damage new seals.
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During my Alaska Trip, a couple summers back, when my troublesome tube left a puddle on and ground and spray on the fairing, the local shop in Anchorage (AK Cycles) replaced the seals for around $300, if memory serves. The shop owner told me that there were some nicks on that tube that he was able to polish out, but warned that if they were to start leaking again, they would need to be replaced. Did your mechanic talk about trying to polish them? It sounds like you’ve been diligent about keeping them clean, so I imagine the scratches can’t be too bad.
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During my Alaska Trip, a couple summers back, when my troublesome tube left a puddle on and ground and spray on the fairing, the local shop in Anchorage (AK Cycles) replaced the seals for around $300, if memory serves. The shop owner told me that there were some nicks on that tube that he was able to polish out, but warned that if they were to start leaking again, they would need to be replaced. Did your mechanic talk about trying to polish them?
He didn't really talk about that, no. But it will (eventually) be part of the conversation. Were your nicks near the bottom, in the front?
It sounds like you’ve been diligent about keeping them clean, so I imagine the scratches can’t be too bad.
I have been, but only since they started leaking. I never really knew I had to keep them clean before that (other than just normal occasional bike washing). My other bikes did not have upside-down forks and were exposed and easy to clean with bike washing. On the C14, the front portions are very difficult to access and can't be seen. Out of sight, out of mind...
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He didn't really talk about that, no. But it will (eventually) be part of the conversation. Were your nicks near the bottom, in the front?
Mine were toward the top of the exposed tube, in the area where the tube travels along the seal(s). Dirt had gotten past the dust seal and scratched the seal(s) enough to cause them to leak. Basically, they were vertical scratches. A large nick, as if from a rock, could require replacement if the nick is deep enough and high enough to travel across and damage the seals.
Side note: He did give me a name of an supplier to replace the tubes at a lower cost than the $536 you mentioned. I can look for it, if you’d like. He said they were excellent quality tubes.
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I have filled small pits on my old Zee with JB weld. Clean well with acetone.
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I have filled small pits on my old Zee with JB weld. Clean well with acetone.
Interesting idea. Seems amazing it would hold.
From what I can tell, my very small areas of damage look like a few rocks hit it or something and there were some raised areas (which I hit with a tiny file to try and flatten, without too much success). Next time I have the fender out of the way, I will attempt to take photos with my mega-super camera. Last attempt with cell phone was futile.
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If time allows, get the tubes hard chromed by a specialist when they're apart. It's a common procedure.
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Max, just get them done. Replace the seals and change the oil. You don't need this worry in your life.
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I agree, get them done. Do you know anyone with the tools to do the forks? If not, are you reasonably good with tools? It's not a hard job to do, extra hands help. I had never touched USD style forks, and did two C14's in an afternoon with the other riders assistance.
Where are you located?
I hate paying for someone to do something when I can invest less money in the tools and own them.
https://traxxion.com/product/fork-service-tool-kit/
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I agree, get them done. Do you know anyone with the tools to do the forks?
Nope
If not, are you reasonably good with tools? It's not a hard job to do, extra hands help. I had never touched USD style forks, and did two C14's in an afternoon with the other riders assistance.
I used to be pretty good, not so much anymore. My best friend is a master mechanic who used to help (more like I helped him) but he moved fairly far away when he got married and now has heath issues.
Where are you located?
Hampton Roads
I hate paying for someone to do something when I can invest less money in the tools and own them. https://traxxion.com/product/fork-service-tool-kit/
Wow, that seems far less expensive than I would have guessed. I thought it required "special tool X" and "special tool Y" and special bike jack/stand, and spring compressors, and, and... Anyway, the $300 is not an issue. But $1450+ and 3+ weeks is.
I much prefer the non-upside-down forks I had on my ZRX. Never a moment problem with them. Easy to see and clean, gravity kept the fluid where it belongs, and sensitive parts much further away from the road debris. Hard to imagine there is such a huge advantage of upside-down forks that can offset the problems it causes.
Oh, and I got home Sat from a ride from that friends house and checked. Now the left tube is leaking a little again. Grrrrrrr!!!!!!!!
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I've had to replace my lower tubes. They weren't leaking, but the chrome finish was worn off in the slide area & they had some roughness to them. That was around the 140K mark.
I bought a set of used forks for $100.00 & just used the lower tubes. All has been good for another 100K.
Of course I wasn't paying attention & bought later model forks. So I had to drill out were the ABS sensor mounts to get the air gap right, but not a big deal.
I've never had a fork seal leak till I rode my V-Strom to Alaska!
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USD forks flex less, have less unsprung weight, and less weight overall and are superior to older systems in just about every way.
Yes, they are harder to self service, but then that applies to all of the C14.
My left fork started to weep at about 50k miles. I used one of the plastic fork seal cleaners and it's been fine ever since so I suspect it was a piece of crud trapped in the seal. Currently at 75k and still going strong. I am planning to get a major service done at a local specialists and will get the forks rebuilt with new seals at the same time.
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My forks started leaking at about 40K. I tried the seal mate a few times and then bit the bullet and replaced the seals. Getting the forks off was the toughest part for me. The left one (standing in front of the bike) came right off. The right fork upper bolt became a major PITA and had to be drilled. I finally got it out with an easy out and replaced those four bolts with cap head bolts. Once the forks are off the job went quickly for me.
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I found this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GFUZbA6WKiA which greatly helped understanding the process, although he glossed over the removal from the bike. Makes a lot more sense now, compared to just trying to decipher the service manual. Also puts that main part in the Traxxion kit into context.
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It is easy to mess up the heads on the fork pinch bolts, a 6-pt socket is highly recommended.
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I have had a leaking seal problem for a couple years on my 1986 Honda V65 Magna, I've used the sealmate & never could get it to compleatly stop. I just bought the Seal Doctor & it fixed the leak on the 1st try. The sealmate is to flexible & I never could get it to clean all the way around without bending & twisting the end. The seal doctor snaps right around the fork & with a couple twist around the fork the leak was fixed !. The other side of the tool cleans the dust seal also.
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I've used the sealmate & never could get it to compleatly stop. I just bought the Seal Doctor & it fixed the leak on the 1st try. The sealmate is to flexible & I never could get it to clean all the way around without bending & twisting the end. The seal doctor snaps right around the fork & with a couple twist around the fork the leak was fixed !. The other side of the tool cleans the dust seal also.
I took a look at this again and put it in my cart on Amazon to buy. The Sealmate works, but it is difficult to use and requires removal or moving the fender in order for fingers to get around and support/move the tool. And, yes, I have bent/deformed the tip several times by accident. It looks like the Doctor can be used much more easily and without fender removal, which would be a huge plus. Thanks
Yes, I know this is not likely to magically fix my worn seals, but it looks like a nice tool to have, regardless.
https://riskracing.com/pages/seal-doctor
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0068G164E
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I did my forks twice in my lifetime of owning my 08. The first time I did it myself (I have all the traxxion stuff). The second time I just removed the forks and took them to the local Kwackers dealer. Much simpler the second time. A tip for those doing it yourself or taking them to a dealer....break the top bolt loose while the forks are still in the bike. It's so much easier that way. Even the tech at Kwackers asked me if the bolts had been broke loose...of course I said yes.
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I hate paying for someone to do something when I can invest less money in the tools and own them.
https://traxxion.com/product/fork-service-tool-kit/
Just a follow-up, the Traxxion kit doesn't mention a fork driver, so that is something missing from the equation, which seems surprising.
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I took a look at this again and put it in my cart on Amazon to buy. [...]
https://riskracing.com/pages/seal-doctor
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0068G164E
Hmm, it seems the C14's tubes are 43mm diameter. So, surprisingly, it would actually use the small version, not the large?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006ZTTY6Q?th=1
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Hmm, it seems the C14's tubes are 43mm diameter. So, surprisingly, it would actually use the small version, not the large?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006ZTTY6Q?th=1
Correct, I got lucky & my Honda V65 Magna's forks are 41mm & the Concours is 43mm so the small 35-45mm seal doctor works for both !
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Yay! It works quite well! Unlike the Sealmate, which is flimsy and super thin and requires taking off the fender, I was able to use the SealDoctor without removing the fender. It is tight, but doable. My left was still leaking, despite using the Sealmate a week ago. So I decided to try the SealDoctor with just ONE turn. That is all it took- 100 mile ride and no leak. Then a 60 mile ride and no leak. Of course, leaking will return, but I can more easily deal with it now :)
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I have used the Seal-mate a few times on my right front fork, but I took a 5-day trip and it started leaking the first day, to where the fork oil got all over my lower fairing.
I need to consider removing and replacing on my own or taking it to the dealer. And if I go with the dealer, do I take the bike to them or bring the fork tubes in?
I have never removed fork tubes on any bike in the past and this is the only bike I have had more than 30k miles (currently at ~45k).
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Of course, leaking will return, but I can more easily deal with it now :)
And it did return, a few hundred miles later (between 200 and 300 miles, not sure), same side (left). Used Seal Doctor again (which was easy, like before) and it has been OK again for at least another few hundred miles so far.
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And it did return, a few hundred miles later (between 200 and 300 miles, not sure), same side (left). Used Seal Doctor again (which was easy, like before) and it has been OK again for at least another few hundred miles so far.
With all the times you have fussed with it, you would think you would have taken care of it by now by replacing and polishing the tubes as needed.
I am going to call the local shop tomorrow when they are open and see what they charge on the bike vs off. I should probably get it all checked out as well, since it has been 25k miles since it has had a full go-through.
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With all the times you have fussed with it, you would think you would have taken care of it by now by replacing and polishing the tubes as needed.
One might think so. :) But it turns out to be expensive and the shop had over a months backlog. So, I wanted to see if I can put it off longer. Having watched videos and such, I determined it is not something I can do myself. Has yours leaked more than just twice?
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Mine was leaking, I got the Seal-Mate and fixed it and then it didn't leak as much as it just put a light coating on the tube, but then Covid hit and I wasn't commuting in (the majority of my riding) and I kinda forgot about it.
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Just called and talked to the local dealer.
$500 if I bring the bike to them, $330 if I bring just the forks.
But I looked back on my service records and saw that I have not had the bike serviced in a long time (I have done the oil, clutch and brake fluid and I have a K&N air filter) and for a major service and the forks it would be $1600 but they are booked out for a month.
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The last time I did it on my C14, I took the forks off myself and took them to the dealer. If you do that, loosen the top bolt before you take them out. The dealer tech will thank you.
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I just had new seals fitted to my 08. The chrome is mostly worn away at 75k miles which is pretty poor.
He polished them smooth and for now they are sealing.
I am thinking about replacing them with ZX14 forks as more options for upgrades as well as having separate compression and rebound damping adjustments.
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Brought the Concours in yesterday and left it at the dealer. I hope it doesn't take 3 weeks like they said it might.
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Got a call from the dealer today, they found that the front brake pads were soaked by the fork oil and the rear pads were at 20% remaining (original pads and I am at 45k miles). So, for another $100 they are going to get new pads on.
The bike should be done tomorrow or Friday.
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[That's a great deal. Front pads alone are close to a 100.
quote author=SVonhof link=topic=8987.msg312460#msg312460 date=1626312025]
Got a call from the dealer today, they found that the front brake pads were soaked by the fork oil and the rear pads were at 20% remaining (original pads and I am at 45k miles). So, for another $100 they are going to get new pads on.
The bike should be done tomorrow or Friday.
[/quote]
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That's a great deal. Front pads alone are close to a 100.
Got a call from the dealer today, they found that the front brake pads were soaked by the fork oil and the rear pads were at 20% remaining (original pads and I am at 45k miles). So, for another $100 they are going to get new pads on.
The bike should be done tomorrow or Friday.
Likely because the forks are off, which means they have easy access anyway.
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They are easy either way. At any rate it's a great price and a good time to do it.
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Got the bike back today. Most expensive wash the bike has had. ;-)
All good on the ride home though.