Started a valve adjustment

[gPink]

That's awesome.
I would show you what I just did on WOrd . I was excited to come back and upload it but it is not anywhere near as cool as that one.

I have know idea who should get the credit for the template. I copied it off this forum or COG.

[B.D.F.]

I doubt you got close to hitting a piston with a valve (or more than one) as you only drove them in (Easy Boys!) about 0.009" too deep given the worst case scenario. This assumes the cams were timed properly when you turned the engine of course but that is always a requirement anyway.

Let us know how it runs after it is buttoned up.

Brian

I had it all written down correctly but ordered 2.50 shims instead of 2.250. I never noticed when I put them in. My concern is that they were so large a piston could have contacted a valve. The downside of not using Big K shims is they are not marked as 30, 33 28 and such.
Wayne

[jonathan]

Try this...

That is from an excel spreadsheet that does all of the calculations.

[maxtog]

I had it all written down correctly but ordered 2.50 shims instead of 2.250. I never noticed when I put them in. My concern is that they were so large a piston could have contacted a valve.

They would have to be super-duper-OMG-way-off to actually make contact    Not sure a shim is even available that would be large enough to enable contact.

[just gone]

That is from an excel spreadsheet that does all of the calculations.

You would know  ----->  http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=3506.msg41100#msg41100

[kzz1king]

Well I finally got a chance to get back to the bike. Valve adjust done. Now on to the TB synch. Wish I would have ead up ealier. I see where installing the hoses would have been easier with valve cover off. Not doing that again right now. Need to get a mirror, hoses and a right hand driver. Tempted to leave it. Bike ran smooth before and still seems to thoughI havnt had it on the road yet. Lots of snow still.
Wayne

[maxtog]

Well I finally got a chance to get back to the bike. Valve adjust done. Now on to the TB synch. Wish I would have ead up ealier. I see where installing the hoses would have been easier with valve cover off. Not doing that again right now. Need to get a mirror, hoses and a right hand driver. Tempted to leave it. Bike ran smooth before and still seems to thoughI havnt had it on the road yet. Lots of snow still.

I am not sure how many people actually get the throttle bodies sync'ed, but I don't recall a single posting where anyone actually had to adjust anything after having tested them.  Of course, my memory is not all that great....

[Riverszzr]

I have had to adjust every C14 I have worked on to get the synchronization spot on.......Some a little, some very much, but every one of them- definitely worth doing

[maxtog]

I have had to adjust every C14 I have worked on to get the synchronization spot on.......Some a little, some very much, but every one of them- definitely worth doing

Thanks for the info!  So it sounds like it is worth the time.  I had it on my "to-do" list with the "someday" valve check and was going to research it further when it came time.  Now I don't have to

[kzz1king]

It looks very difficult. I keep looking at it and say no way,! What are the benefits.?
Wayne

quote author=Riverszzr link=topic=22047.msg274962#msg274962 date=1486946205]
I have had to adjust every C14 I have worked on to get the synchronization spot on.......Some a little, some very much, but every one of them- definitely worth doing
[/quote]

[maxtog]

It looks very difficult. I keep looking at it and say no way,! What are the benefits.?

With 4 sets of butterflies/throttle bodies, they must be kept the same/equal.  Otherwise, some cylinders will get more or less air than the others.  This means it is possible that you can have more power coming from some cylinders than others.  An engine that is not in sync will be more out of balance and produce additional vibration.  If it is very out of sync, it will rob you of total power.  I suppose it could also create additional wear in some way, but I am not sure about that.

[Rhino]

With 4 sets of butterflies/throttle bodies, they must be kept the same/equal.  Otherwise, some cylinders will get more or less air than the others.  This means it is possible that you can have more power coming from some cylinders than others.  An engine that is not in sync will be more out of balance and produce additional vibration.  If it is very out of sync, it will rob you of total power.  I suppose it could also create additional wear in some way, but I am not sure about that.

Sync is important at idle and low power settings but I don't think it makes much difference at WOT unless one plate is WAY off.

[maxtog]

With 4 sets of butterflies/throttle bodies, they must be kept the same/equal.  Otherwise, some cylinders will get more or less air than the others.  This means it is possible that you can have more power coming from some cylinders than others.  An engine that is not in sync will be more out of balance and produce additional vibration.  If it is very out of sync, it will rob you of total power.  I suppose it could also create additional wear in some way, but I am not sure about that.

I meant to add the following this morning, but was running late and didn't-

If they are not in sync, it should also mess up the AFR (Air to Fuel Ratio) for all the cylinders.  Why?  Because the computer doesn't actually know how much air is going in each cylinder- this isn't a car with a single throttle body and a mass air flow sensor.  It is only looking at a single position sensor and I think a manifold pressure sensor (which is not super fast) then just looking up what it should to in a map.  If one butterfly were letting in more air than the others, that calculation will be off and will affect all the cylinders for X amount of time.

And running without the ideal AFR can lead to power loss, poor fuel economy, higher emissions, running hotter than normal, and additional deposits in the cylinders and valves (depending on if it is too rich or too lean).

[maxtog]

Sync is important at idle and low power settings but I don't think it makes much difference at WOT unless one plate is WAY off.

Yeah, it probably won't matter much at higher throttle because we are talking about such a tiny difference compared to the total airflow at that point.  So the imbalance at idle and very low throttle will be most apparent.

[bigtremb]

I just started my valve check this afternoon and haven't found the answer to this question: what have you done with that rubber blanket??? I was 5min into the opening process and that thing was  getting on my nerve big time

[kzz1king]

[I tucked it back and used a bungee to hold in place. I pulled the radiator too which really opened things up.

quote author=bigtremb link=topic=22047.msg275323#msg275323 date=1487983992]
I just started my valve check this afternoon and haven't found the answer to this question: what have you done with that rubber blanket??? I was 5min into the opening process and that thing was  getting on my nerve big time
[/quote]

[bigtremb]

so I have taken out  both cams and measured all the shims and I was wondering if you guys use the middle values ( 0.215 for exhaust and 0.145 for intake) or since we seem to all go to adjust them on the looser side you have used 0.24 for exhaust and 0.170 for intake in the formula to get the new calculated shim size??