spark plug oil

[deuce72]

Here in MN if you get a chance to fire up your ride you do it. My 98 Has not run since early November. When I fired it up I expected it not to sound the greatest. After almost 5 minutes I turned it off and figured I did some good. After getting ready to do some inspection, I noticed some oil around the plugs wells. I pulled #1 plug wire and there was some oil inside. Also the same on #4. I did not look in #2 or #3. I also noticed my carb boots popped of #1 and #2. It was probably around the upper 30's for temp.

Should I be concerned?? Sticky rings?? Any honest feed back welcomed.

Deuce

[DC Concours]

First you never do any good when you just fire up your bike for a few mins. Leave it alone till you are actually going to take it out for a good ride. Don't fire it up just for the hell of it. Does more harm than good.

Your plug well seals are most likely leaking. They are cheap to replace. Usually done at the time of valve adjustments.

[T Cro ®]

Here in MN if you get a chance to fire up your ride you do it....

Sorry but living in MN does not give excuse  for a wives tale that truly does more harm than good; in all likelihood the engine never got warm enough to burn out any moisture that condensed in the oil and your battery likely has less stored energy than it had previusly....

Moving on to oil in the wells do you know when was the last time the plug well seals were changed? They are likely hard as rocks... Buy a new set of plug well seals and a valve cover gasket and while your at it check/adjust your valves...

Carb boots popped off? Was the bike spitting and sputtering out of the carbs while it was running?

[Ron Dawg]

Murph's Kits has the plug well gaskets and they're relatively cheap.  I used to change mine every other valve adjustment. I think the clearance to remove the valve cover is so tight that I was scratching one occasionally and causing a leak. I suspect that was relative to them getting hard over time like Tony says. It's like everything else, change them and the valve cover gaskets before you need to and you won't know if you needed to. Don't change them and you'll wish you had. 

[T Cro ®]

... It's like everything else, change it before you need to and you won't know if you needed to. Don't change them and you'll wish you had. 

I like that.... We are doing this very thing right now on board ship; I'm changing out quite a few parts that I would normally not change until failure. But the new owners want to improve our up time so who am I to argue....

[RFH87_Connie]

I also noticed my carb boots popped of #1 and #2.

Check to see if the boots are still pliable when they are at or near room temperature.  If they are hard as plastic and not rubbery anymore, they have probably shrunk a little.  A heat gun or blow dryer may help get them back on with a lot of pulling, tugging, cussing, and bleeding.  Get the bottom started first where you can't see it.  Some of us have created special screw drivers or stout wire bent to a hook on the end to assist in this task.  Don't tear the rubber.

If not, you are looking at getting new ones which will slip on easily.

[deuce72]

Thanks Everyone for the feed back. I'm going to take the middle ground here and wait until warmer temps. The hair dryer does work well for that, thank you!

Are there any step by step archives or sites for the type of maintenance that you refer to?? My previous ride's (Honda GL500I) forum had a lot of info and pics even for basic of maintenance. Seems hard to find here on COG. I'm clearly a novice here, but with Honda I was able to do some engine tear down, replaced a stator, put back together and ride, which for me is a feat. My friends thought I was wasting my time. Anyway, I would love to do valve adjustments, cover etc.

I am trying to locate a Oil leak from previous riding season. Dripping on exhaust. Forum refers to a clutch push rod seal but I don't know where to start looking. Anyway;

 Thank!!! Guys!! Always a great help!!

duece

[VirginiaJim]

I was going to file this under muffler bearings based on the title....   I had a 1981 GL500 SilverWing many moons ago.

[Rhino]

I was going to file this under muffler bearings based on the title....   I had a 1981 GL500 SilverWing many moons ago.

I had a similar reaction. I was thinking it was going to be a blinker fluid thread.

[T Cro ®]

Here is an old PFD about adjusting the valve...

As to the clutch push rod seal. Take a look at the left side of the motor and look for the small cover with 3 bolts as well as your clutch hose attached to it. Remove the 3 bolts and ease the master cylinder away and remove the push rod from the engine. Remove and replace the small oil seal that you will see when you remove the push rod. 2 things don't pull in your clutch lever and don't knock the seal into the engine... Other than that it is an easy 15 minute job start to finish.

Not a good picture but just forward of the COG sticker is the clutch master cylinder...

[deuce72]

Thanks T Cro for the explanation. I can eliminate at least this seal when I finish.

Sorry for the "subject" guys, I will make sure to not do that again. 

deuce

[VirginiaJim]

Oh no.  Please keep on.  It gives us something to talk about.

[datsaxman@hotmail.com]

Right.  I put the battery on the charger/tender and change the spark plug oil every winter.

Muffler bearings have been updated to the latest part number from Kawasaki.  . 
Nicer seals than the originals, so they last a lot longer now.

Better? 

datsaxman

[VirginiaJim]

Excellent!

[Rhino]

Right.  I put the battery on the charger/tender and change the spark plug oil every winter.

Muffler bearings have been updated to the latest part number from Kawasaki.  . 
Nicer seals than the originals, so they last a lot longer now.

Better? 

datsaxman

But what type of spark plug oil do you use? 

[VirginiaJim]

Kawasaki branded only..

[datsaxman@hotmail.com]

Rhino,

NEVER use spark plug oil from an inferior maker.  Insist on the Gen-yoo-wine article!!