I got the info from here and went for it

http://cog-online.org/clubportal/ClubStatic.cfm?clubID=1328&pubmenuoptID=35748

and here

http://cog-online.org/clubportal/ClubStatic.cfm?clubID=1328&pubmenuoptID=35726
and I went with a 91 Ninja front fender just for visual reasons to close up the gap from the wheel and tire combo.

here goes a before and after shot of my 17 inch wheels. I de-greased  it and wet sanded the wheel with 600 grit and de-greased it again. And shot several light coats of Dupli-color Wheel paint silver followed by the several coats of there wheel gloss clear coat

Before


After


I installed the 91 Ninja front fender too, it bolts right up...kinda.  The mounting holes are just a tad off. You can either bolt up the front two bolts or the rear two bolts, with no issue. the other two bolt holes are just off by maybe a 1/16th of an inch. So a quick tap with the dremel is all you need to get the other two bolts in.

Here are the pictures of the Ninja fender. I painted it with a Dupli color rattle can, from Auto Zone. The Dark Blue Pearl (8P4) is real close to the 06 color.

The on the left is our Connies and the right a 91 Ninja


Now is was very surprised how good the Ninja front fender look with a OEM front wheel (18inch)and tire combo seen here. The gap is close but plenty of room.


and one more close up.


FYI the fender extender that some of us have will not work with the Ninja fender, without major surgery.
FYI II- That tire is a Ultra Storm 2 with 16,000+ miles in it.

Cheers
Ron

This is the clearance with my new rubber Shinko Raven 120/70-17 and the Ninja front fender. Pretty much a straight install with the correct part from the list mentioned at the beginning of this post. I cant believe how close the Dupli color is either 


Here is another shot so you can see the complete job.


OK now for the rear, not so much an issue just be prepared. With the mean streak rear wheel and the Bridgestone 020 170/60-17 tire I had no issue installng and removing this comb. But the Shinko Raven 170/60-17 was another story, it was wider and the only way I was able just to get in I had to remove the hub assembly (4bolts) to get room the get the tire up, and that even with a bobbed tail that I have. Not a big issue it only added 2 minutes to the install, just be prepared.  And one final note is the center stand , hits this combo too. I just took my dermel in grind off  less that 1/2 inch of the right inside radius to clear the tire


And here is the final product. I did a quick 50m mile ride just to see how it felt. I was very surprised that I felt the height change as soon as I got on the bike, more comfortable for me being a tad lower. As far as riding the bike "seemed" to steer quicker. I'm not sold yet on that tho... I had to take it easy with the new shoes. But I felt that the steering input was quicker, I went on a on ramp at about 45-50, and I leaned like I always do and she "seemed" to move right faster that  expected. I was heading to the white line quick... but I need to ride more to see after the tires get worked in.


Cheers
Ron

And another C10 moves into the 21 century with properly sized rims and tires...... 

I run the Shinko 005 Advance Radials in the same sizing as well as a ZRX front and and ZZR rear shock and overall I'm amazed at how well this old girl can handle for her age and size after all no matter if your bike is an 06 it was penned straight from 1986......

Ron, I got a good test ride for you coming up in late March to start the season. March 24th, is that the Sat? Make your reservations for Friday night and come on up, we will finally ride together (well, us and a few dozen more).

  I was able to get the MS rim in by placing the center stand on about 2" worth of plywood (first, place an equal or greater amount under the rear tire, unless of course you are an olympic weight lifter; otherwise there is NO way you will get enough leverage by simply placing the wood under the center stand first!).  This gave me more than ample wiggle room to get the MS wheel in w/o having to remove the final drive.  I know this is probably of little use to you now, but when it comes time for a new rear tire, might save you some time. 

  I was able to get the MS rim in by placing the center stand on about 2" worth of plywood (first, place an equal or greater amount under the rear tire, unless of course you are an olympic weight lifter; otherwise there is NO way you will get enough leverage by simply placing the wood under the center stand first!).  This gave me more than ample wiggle room to get the MS wheel in w/o having to remove the final drive.  I know this is probably of little use to you now, but when it comes time for a new rear tire, might save you some time.

As for me I've found that there is no way to get the 170/60-17 Shinko 005 Advance Radial in or out without dropping the rear end; this is with a bobbed rear fender. But what I do when I want the rear wheel higher up off the ground is to drop 2 small pieces of 2 by material on the floor next to the center stand base pads to which I lean into the bike to get it up on one side of the center stand, I then side the 2 by under the base pad with my foot and set her down. I then walk around to the other side and lean into the bike and do the same with the other piece of wood.

 wow, that came out great! nice work, and yes, nice to see another connie being upgraded.  Steve

As for me I've found that there is no way to get the 170/60-17 Shinko 005 Advance Radial in or out without dropping the rear end; this is with a bobbed rear fender. But what I do when I want the rear wheel higher up off the ground is to drop 2 small pieces of 2 by material on the floor next to the center stand base pads to which I lean into the bike to get it up on one side of the center stand, I then side the 2 by under the base pad with my foot and set her down. I then walk around to the other side and lean into the bike and do the same with the other piece of wood.

I'd end up dropping it. Twice.

As for me I've found that there is no way to get the 170/60-17 Shinko 005 Advance Radial in or out without dropping the rear end; this is with a bobbed rear fender. But what I do when I want the rear wheel higher up off the ground is to drop 2 small pieces of 2 by material on the floor next to the center stand base pads to which I lean into the bike to get it up on one side of the center stand, I then side the 2 by under the base pad with my foot and set her down. I then walk around to the other side and lean into the bike and do the same with the other piece of wood.

Same here as far as dropping the rear end, it won't fit with the rear end in place. I do like the trick with sliding the wood under the center stand, I'll try it the next time.  As it is there is no way I can get my bike on the centerstand without riding the back tire on a 2x4 and even then I still drop a testicle on the garage floor.

Thanks  Steve. It was good work.

Cheers
Ron

Ive been thinking about your center stand problem. If you took off the bags and emptied the case? From what I saw you would drop like 300 lbs off the bike.......

Ive been thinking about your center stand problem. If you took off the bags and emptied the case? From what I saw you would drop like 300 lbs off the bike.......

LOL, Louie it's not THAT bad....is it. 

Cheers
Ron

Grab a scale, I wonder. BTW, New Years day riding up here looking sweet...