Connie Camper - work in progress

[Centex]

I wanted a way to get all my camping gear secure so I could leave the bike to go hiking, into museums, etc. with less worry about things stacked in duffel bags on my seat.  I also thought that packing and unpacking would be easier with a top box.  Traditional top boxes don’t have a long dimension that works for my tent/poles, sleeping pad, Kermit chair, etc. I don’t particularly like the way-high and far-back traditional topcase mounts anyway.

From the ADVRider Forum I learned of the Caribou Cases luggage system.  With that as inspiration and never shy about 'borrowing' a good idea, I decided to try making my own system using the relatively inexpensive waterproof SKB cases for my project.

As I toyed with the idea on paper, it grew from an ‘add a top-case’ project to a total re-luggage project.  I ride strictly solo so I took advantage of the opportunity to get my luggage narrower and, for me, in easier-to-pack shapes than the OEM cases.

Still a work in progress, but the working prototype luggage mount is complete and I've done some initial shakedown rides, first empty and then with loads.  All worked good, so here’s a peek.


Mockup in Styrofoam before ordering luggage; shock link removed to test full compression clearance


Purchase decision made, mockup with luggage strapped in place on wood blocks

[Centex]

The vendor I used upgraded the SKB cases to newly available keyed latches for an extra $10 per case.  They latch very secure without the key lock being used and yet are very easy to open (a much easier latch type than Pelican brand cases). They are absolutely submersible/pressure wash waterproof. The side cases are 19x14.5x8 (inside) = 36 liters each; the top case is 22x17x8=49 liters.

My Connie is a dedicated bagger/camping RV (my Ducati is for ‘naked’ riding) so for ease of fabrication and absolute ‘solidity’ I decided to bolt the bags to the bike.  Four bolts must be removed to lift the entire assembly off the bike, but the bags must be empty.  More to follow about wheel removal.

I made my mounts completely out of 6061 T6 aluminum plate, angle, strap and solid round bar.  The 6061 is nice to cut, bore and tap.  The working prototype is all bolted connections with SS M8x1.25 buttonhead bolts throughout.  That’s the size of bolt used to fasten the OEM bag mounts to the C10 frame, and to fasten the antlers to the bag mounts.


Side view of the working prototype luggage system


Front ¾ view


Rear view – remember, this is an incomplete project; this is 5” narrower overall than the Connie bags.  I made the custom mount for the Whelen LED ambulance brake/tail/turn lights and license back in early ’05.


Top view

[Centex]

I mounted the new luggage directly to the frame using the points where the OEM luggage sub-mount is bolted (I did not use the sub-mount that the antlers bolt to – I went straight to the rear frame mounts).  The M8 x 65 bolts pass through a 5/16 bored 1”diameter solid bar 6061 standoffs.


Inside each side bag is a 1/8” thick 6061 plate; outside each side bag is a 3/16” thick 6061 plate.  The sandwich of 1/8 alum plate. +  7/64 plastic + 3/16 alum plate, all bolted tightly together makes an extremely strong and rigid yet light structure.  No nuts are used – the short M8 bolts that don’t go through to the bike frame thread directly into the 3/16 backplate from inside the luggage. When I pull it apart for painting I’ll drill and tap the upper corners for 2 more bolts to complete the sandwich.  The two bolts mid-plate in this pic are the long-bolts that go to the tapped holes on bike frame where the OEM luggage sub-mounts bolted.


This closeup view of the backside of the left bag shows the standoffs near the bottom, the 3/16” thick backplate against the bag and extending up to hold the topcase, and the 1.5 x 1.5 x 3/16 angle topcase mount.  The OEM tailpiece is removed – more about that later.


Inside the top case showing the 1.5 x 3/16 6061 strap load-distribution plates for the bolted mount.  A perfect flush-fit in the reinforcing ridge molded in the case.


A closeup back view … imagine how much stash space there is between the fender and the top box if the unused pillion seat weren’t there ;-)

[gnuse]

Awesome. I have heard good things about their products when used on dual-sport bikes as well, where they get a good beating.

[Centex]

So, what’s next for the project?

1. Take a saw to the seatpan and an xacto to the RDL seatcover and foam (followed by needle and thread).  I’m going to cut the seat down to a true “solo” seat and use the pillion foam and cover on a new backing piece for a backrest.  Take a look at the top view of the seat in the first post, “squint” and you can see what I mean.

2. Grab the rear subframe from my local ‘86 parts bike.  Remove all the tabs, seatmount, etc from above main side tubes.  This is the basis for an aluminum tool/firstaidkit/stash box that runs the full length and width of the space under the top box.  Access will be through a hinged back door with the taillight raised and mounted on that.  This becomes the new ‘tailpiece’ to replace the plastic OEM seat surround and token rear luggage rack.

3. Remove the rear-half of the fender liner from the normal joint line that is under the pillion seat.  Replace with an aluminum fender that is hinged off the bottom/rear of the new toolbox.  This will raise to allow the rear wheel to be removed from the back of the bike while on the centerstand with no sideways gyrations.

4. Misc details like rubber mat liner in the topcase, snap-in cable lid-holders for the side cases.  I already have fitted sidecase liners to fit the new luggage custom made by Karla Kiefer at bagsforbikes.com.  If you don’t know about her, Karla’s been making Connie bag liners since waay back (I’ve had ‘em since I bought my ’04 new), she does excellent work that is guaranteed forever (literally!).

This certainly isn’t for everyone, but then neither is the Connie.  But it is a great bike for my purposes on the road and is an easy platform for tinkering in the shop beyond all sane investment of time and money – like riding and camping, another source of enjoyment in my life.

 

[SteveJ.]

Nice kit!

[connie_rider]

Looks like an interesting project.
Keep us posted.

Ride safe, Ted

[Uglydog56]

Don't forget some method of seat latching.  I like how tucked in everything is.  Looks like a cop beemer even moreso than normal.

[Jeremy Mitchell]

Looks great!  Are you installing the pillion seat for support of the top box or are you going to use that space for storage? 

[kzz1king]

Looks great!  Are you installing the pillion seat for support of the top box or are you going to use that space for storage?

You can't just look at the pics man!

2. Grab the rear subframe from my local ‘86 parts bike.  Remove all the tabs, seatmount, etc from above main side tubes.  This is the basis for an aluminum tool/firstaidkit/stash box that runs the full length and width of the space under the top box.  Access will be through a hinged back door with the taillight raised and mounted on that.  This becomes the new ‘tailpiece’ to replace the plastic OEM seat surround and token rear luggage rack.

[Jeremy Mitchell]

Guess I read it too fast.   

[Centex]

The pillion seat does not have anything to do with the top box support.

BTW, the mounting height of the top box also is not related to the pillion seat ... I have the top box as low as it can be without interfering with the side case latches.  The side boxes are as low as I felt they could be relative to the mufflers without an added heat shield.

The width between the side cases is 3/8" clear of the rear caliper with the wheel in full compression and the shaft-side is offset the same for symmetry.  The caliper clearance was the 'controlling' dimension when I did the mockup measurements.  The clear width between the side cases (the width available for the to-be-constructed stash box) is 13 1/8" which, by pure coincidence, matched the reinforcing ridges in the bottom of the top box (good karma  ).

Bottom line - everything is as "low-and-tight" as I can make it with the particular cases I'm using.

[emjayw]

Very tidy and well thought out.  Whose windshield is that you're running?  Looks nice on the bike.  Those cases should out-last the connie!  You are a very talented rider-owner, that is obvious.  Mike in TX

[Centex]

The windshield is a vented Cee Bailey I bought used through the marketplace on this forum.  It has been trimmed along the top so is not quite the original Cee Bailey shape.

[ATC Buckeye]

I was expecting a scary cobbled together setup, but wow, that really is a great job.  Im impressed!

[roadkoan]

Nice work Centex!
I had a Yamaha XS that I solo-ed. I bought a generic Harley tractor style seat and managed to bodge it together, but I was never really happy with the seat latch plan I came up with...
So I await your progress. 

[kreaky]

Very impressive work, thanks for posting. I've been looking for a practical top box, didn't know about the SKB boxes, great stuff, I'll be ordering one. Also, interesting that you cut down your Cee Bailey. My recently acquired '89 has a tall (too tall for me) vented Cee Bailey and I am not sure how much I can take off and not screw up the great airflow characterisitics of this screen. If you don't mind my asking, how much did you take off? And what difference, if any, was the result?

[Centex]

... I was never really happy with the seat latch plan I came up with...
So I await your progress. 

Work progresses, the seat is cut and a 1st gen mount done but for now I'm off to go camping and riding with Two Wheeled Texans for a few days to field-test the setup.  More to follow when I'm happy with it.

interesting that you cut down your Cee Bailey....I am not sure how much I can take off and not screw up the great airflow characterisitics of this screen....

My windshield had been trimmed when I bought it used and I cut it more so I can't compare to the OEM CB shape or performance.  I'm sure lots of folks trim them so you should start a new thread with that question.