It all started out so well

[Tree]

A beautiful day had dawned.  Then I attempted to start  my bike.  That was Friday morning.  2 days later and I'm still in the driveway watching the weekend disappear.

So, if any of the following makes any sense maybe someone out there can help me with the next step.  My next step is loading it on a flatbed and taking it to the local stealer.

I had rode it home from work 5 hours earlier.  Everything was OK.
No response to pushing the key and releasing it.  Then releasing it quickly (that internal spring).  During all of these steps: No message on the screen.  No cluster lights.  No motion from the speedo or tach.  No noise from the fuel pump.
I replaced the battery.  All connections were and are tight.
I replaced the batteries in both key fobs.
I checked all of the fuses beneath the seat with an ohmmeter.
I broke, inspected, and re-connected the KIPASS connectors in the front/left.
I removed the mechanical key from the fob and placed it next to the raised tit in front of the key, pushed in and held they key for several seconds.

I no longer see the flashing red light in the instrument cluster, left side.  I had always noticed that light when the bike was parked.  That means something but I don't know what.  It's like my bike got hit by an EMP.

[swojo95]

You said you checked the fuses under the seat, did you check the 30A main fuse, near the battery compartment? You need to disconnect the main fuse connector from the starter relay to get at the fuse. I have no idea if this is the issue, but I would check it, to make sure, if you have not done so yet.

[Hooligan]

You'll have to remove the battery to get to that 30A fuse, and the rubber that covers the plug and socket is a bastard to get back on. I had the same issue with the bike not starting a week ago. I also had no warning, and rode the bike the day before.

[Tree]

You said you checked the fuses under the seat, did you check the 30A main fuse, near the battery compartment? You need to disconnect the main fuse connector from the starter relay to get at the fuse. I have no idea if this is the issue, but I would check it, to make sure, if you have not done so yet.

You'll have to remove the battery to get to that 30A fuse, and the rubber that covers the plug and socket is a bastard to get back on. I had the same issue with the bike not starting a week ago. I also had no warning, and rode the bike the day before.

I will look in the morning.  I appreciate the suggestions.  What a PITA this bike has turned into.

AND THE KICKER = I just finished paying off the ^#$)@# loan last week.  FML, seriously.

[B.D.F.]

Did you try using a fob in passive mode? If not, try that next as it uses a different part of the fob entirely.

After that, as others have said, check the main fuse. You can also use a VOM to check that there is voltage at any / all of the fuses when the bike is off (resting).

Otherwise, it could be the dreaded sticking KiPass activation switch; I know you unplugged and then re-plugged the connector on the top / left, and that should work but it has to be done fairly quickly and so you could try that again.

Brian

A beautiful day had dawned.  Then I attempted to start  my bike.  That was Friday morning.  2 days later and I'm still in the driveway watching the weekend disappear.

So, if any of the following makes any sense maybe someone out there can help me with the next step.  My next step is loading it on a flatbed and taking it to the local stealer.

I had rode it home from work 5 hours earlier.  Everything was OK.
No response to pushing the key and releasing it.  Then releasing it quickly (that internal spring).  During all of these steps: No message on the screen.  No cluster lights.  No motion from the speedo or tach.  No noise from the fuel pump.
I replaced the battery.  All connections were and are tight.
I replaced the batteries in both key fobs.
I checked all of the fuses beneath the seat with an ohmmeter.
I broke, inspected, and re-connected the KIPASS connectors in the front/left.
I removed the mechanical key from the fob and placed it next to the raised tit in front of the key, pushed in and held they key for several seconds.

I no longer see the flashing red light in the instrument cluster, left side.  I had always noticed that light when the bike was parked.  That means something but I don't know what.  It's like my bike got hit by an EMP.

[Tree]

Did you try using a fob in passive mode? If not, try that next as it uses a different part of the fob entirely.

After that, as others have said, check the main fuse. You can also use a VOM to check that there is voltage at any / all of the fuses when the bike is off (resting).

Otherwise, it could be the dreaded sticking KiPass activation switch; I know you unplugged and then re-plugged the connector on the top / left, and that should work but it has to be done fairly quickly and so you could try that again.

Brian

I thought that is what I had done when I pulled out the key and placed the fob against the SLU.  Is passive mode something else?

[maxtog]

I thought that is what I had done when I pulled out the key and placed the fob against the SLU.  Is passive mode something else?

That was passive mode.

[B.D.F.]

Yep, that is passive mode.

OK, you are down to two choices I believe: 1) stuck activation switch or 2) main power failure. The power failure could be the main fuse, although I cannot think of why one would open under any kind of normal use, or it could be a main power [power] cable or ground cable anywhere between the battery and the 'spider' of the bike's wiring. I know you said you checked the battery and ground connections right near the battery but there are other connections as well, such as the starter solenoid and of course, chassis grounds.

Or maybe another choice.... 3) you have lost power to the ignition switch assembly. Perhaps a frayed wire that finally parted, perhaps a connector or connector terminal that separated; if a single wire pulled out from a terminal, it would not be very noticeable. Japanese connectors lock and seal quite well so I doubt an entire connector 'slipped' open unless it was not properly closed and latched in the first place and again, finally worked its way open enough to break the connection.

Again, at this point, a VOM used to check for incoming power from the battery positive to all the fuse blocks (only check one fuse per block) is what I would do at this point. Or you could do it the more manual way, pull the battery and check the main fuse and starter solenoid wiring, directly behind the battery.

Best of luck,
Brian

I thought that is what I had done when I pulled out the key and placed the fob against the SLU.  Is passive mode something else?

[Tree]

Last September I ran into the problem with the sticky microswitch/ignition switch assembly where the bike wouldn't start.  I read about the various theories why the microswitch wasn't functioning properly and even watched some entertaining U-Boob vids about it.  I didn't want to get into the habit of whacking the ignition switch whenever it got stuck so I just cut the 2 wires going to it and added a toggle switch.  No problems with starting the bike since then - until now.

What's bugging me is that red light on the console that use to flash and no longer does.  I haven't memorized the repair manual but I have looked for some sort of description as to what that light is signaling, and I haven't found anything yet.

I haven't been able to check the 30A fuse yet but I will this morning after I get back from work.

[maxtog]

What's bugging me is that red light on the console that use to flash and no longer does.

It will only flash for 12 hours or something, then turn off and stay off.

I haven't memorized the repair manual but I have looked for some sort of description as to what that light is signaling, and I haven't found anything yet.

It doesn't signal anything (with the power off), it is essentially just a fake alarm system light to frighten away would-be do-badders.

[Tree]

It will only flash for 12 hours or something, then turn off and stay off.

It doesn't signal anything (with the power off), it is essentially just a fake alarm system light to frighten away would-be do-badders.

This helps.  I was hoping it was some sort of alarm annunciator - "Armed and Ready" (I know there is no anti-theft device but it could be a deterrent).  The way it helps is that it shows that there is a definite power distribution issue that I still need to figure out.  I need that light to start flashing again.  This is just plain weird.

[chap]

Yes that light flashes for 24 hours. If it flashed until sat sometime that means your bike has some power. If you can cycle the bike power it will flash for another 24 hours. I would highly suspect the switch in the ignition. Brian's solution hopefully will get you going.

As far as passive mode in the fob. I may be wrong but don't you have to remove the battery in the fob to make it work that way (unless you are using the actual passive fob)

Good luck getting it started

[maxtog]

Yes that light flashes for 24 hours.

Ha- I originally typed "24" then changed it to "12" since I couldn't remember.  Now I looked it up in the manual, yep, 24.  I could swear I have seen it stop blinking much sooner than 24 before.  Hmm.

And as a bonus tip- you can stop it from doing the "off blinking" thing by pushing and holding the upper and lower dash buttons at the same time for 2 seconds within 20 seconds of turning off the ignition.  Why one would want to do this, I have no idea!

[Tree]

What a week!  I finally got 5 minutes to put my hands on the bike and that's all it took to find an apparent cause.  The 30A fuse in the starter relay was blown.  I say an "apparent cause" since I can't imagine a beefy-ass 30A fuse opening with out something bad going on downstream.  So I will replace it and put everything back together and pray to the Asphalt God that it doesn't blow again.  Wish me luck?

I did notice that the initial replies to this thread pointed right at the fuse.  Thanks to everyone who chimed in.  I appreciate it.

[Tree]

That fuse blew right away.  Got all sparky when I went to attach the ground cable.  This would be fun if it didn't suck.   

[B.D.F.]

Now this is going to sound like some kind of joke but.... you are lucky you have a 'hard' short (Easy Boys!). What that means is that you have a short that is continuous rather than intermittent; that will make it one million time easier to find the problem than a short that 'comes and goes'.

You can pick up an automotive breaker so you can keep breaking the breaker while you search for the short, or pick up a box of fuses- either way, you <may> have to go through a bunch of iterations to find the problem. Still, this is really a benefit to you in diagnostics.

I  would suggest removing the starter cable and then replacing the main fuse (or insert a breaker). If it does NOT open, you have isolated your problem to either the starter or something on the power side of the starter circuit. If it does open the fuse or breaker, start disconnecting the fuse boxes under the seat, or pull all the fuses in one box at a time, then try a new fuse (or reset the breaker). Keep going until it either will not open an fuse, and that means you have located the problem area, or it it continues, you will have to trace the power feeders to each fuse box for chafing nad where they might be shorting to ground. Again, in all seriousness, you have the benifit of a hard, certain short, which will show you exactly what the problem is if you keep looking. It sounds worse than it is; there are just not that many circuits on a C-14 and you will find it if you keep looking.

Best of luck but I believe you will find the problem. Then fix the problem, then ride the bike with the certainty that you HAVE found and ELIMINATED the problem. It is far worse when an electrical problem comes and goes for no obvious reason and you think you fixed it 29 times only to find you did not..... when a long way from home :-(

Brian

That fuse blew right away.  Got all sparky when I went to attach the ground cable.  This would be fun if it didn't suck.   

[tweeter55]

Hot wire a 12 volt lamp into the fuseholder sockets. It should go out when you've located the fault.

[B.D.F.]

Yep, a low- wattage, 12 volt lamp will work also and will not 'blow' like a fuse. Good idea. No, great idea. 

To expand on how to do this if I may: plug lamp in where main fuse goes, lamp will light. Tinker around (technical term for disconnecting circuits, one at a time) with electrical system; when light goes out, you have the circuit that is causing your problem.

Brian

Hot wire a 12 volt lamp into the fuseholder sockets. It should go out when you've located the fault.

[VirginiaJim]

Yeah, but if the current is enough to blow a 30amp fuse immediately, what's it going to do to the bulb?

[gPink]

use two bulbs