When refiners cut ZDDP (zinc) levels due to EPA regs to compensate they increased molybdenum (moly) levels. The added moly is what is bad for wet clutches.

When refiners cut ZDDP (zinc) levels due to EPA regs to compensate they increased molybdenum (moly) levels. The added moly is what is bad for wet clutches.

No, they dont.  Very few do.  Some use higher quality base oils instead. 
And, the moly isnt (in and of itself) whats  bad for clutches, if it were, we would all have issues, as every oil has moly in it as part of an additive package.
BTW, if moly were bad, ZDDP works just as good or better, for a LOT less money to protect metal by making stuff slippery, so why doesnt high levels of that additive cause problems?  Because there isnt enough of it there to cause an issue.

Friction modifiers are whats bad....and they too are part of an additive package, but the way you know its bad is that little "energy conserving" warning on the label.
If it doesnt have it, its fine for use in a wet clutch application.  Period.

The moly is the friction modifier! They INCREASED the moly content when zinc was reduced. This was cussed and discussed all over the net years ago.

 DAMN!!!   Another oil thread.

I still like my oil better than yours   

DAMN!!!   Another oil thread.

Kinda feels like winter. That seems like when the tire/oil threads brew their ugly head

Just wanted to see if anyone WHO USES Mobil 1 15W 50 had noticed the wording on the back of Mobil 1 15w 50 bottle had changed.
Did this mean the 15W 50 had been reformulated?
If so was it still a good choice for those who use it?
I know it is a popular synthetic for C-10's.

You see, this is why I use Royal Purple automotive synthetic, that way I don't have any of these issues.
 

You see, this is why I use Royal Purple automotive synthetic, that way I don't have any of these issues.
 

What issues?        

BTW We use RP Synthetic Hydraulic Oil here at work on board ship in our steering and variable pitch propellers as while it is not a "veggie" base oil it is so pure that it has little if any affect on marine life if it leaks out. Plus it "coats" all metal with a stick protective surface (snot) and as it tends to be slightly solvent by nature the insides of our systems are spotlessly clean.

For all the oil info you can stand:

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?faq=haas_articles

I used oil once.

I saw Rotela T6 5w-40 at Wally World. I think I am going to buy it next time.

+1  Shell Rotella T6 5W40.

Another +1.  Love the stuff, smooth shifts, good for wide temp ranges (for those of us that ride in cooler weather as well as warmer), makes the bike feel sexier, etc.

What do we all think about Castrol Acteva X-tra 4t 10w40 part synthetic motorcycle oil? Any reason not to use it besides the $30 a gal. price tag?

Another +1.  Love the stuff, smooth shifts, good for wide temp ranges (for those of us that ride in cooler weather as well as warmer), makes the bike feel sexier, etc.

Agree.  I noticed that when I switched to Rotella last year, shifts were noticeably smoother. 

I recently swapped to the purple stuff because it was on sale and couldn't distinguish any difference in shift "smoothness".  Both oils shift great!

I've used Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 since they came out with it, my Connie is a 1990 with 52,000 on it.   I drove truck for 34 years, when synthetic oil first came out it was pitched as better because of it's ability to prolong drain intervals (25,000+ miles is common) and to take the heat of diesel engines.   Since it's doubtful any of us will ever let our oil go that long I think we're good with it.  I live in New York State and my bike shifts smooth as butter, shows no wear on the cams and works well whether it's 40 degrees F or 95 degrees F.

OK....just wondering how the masses feel about this engine oil weight.
Not that i have used it, yet, but I found a very nice semi-synthetic high mileage blend at the local autozone. Hey Baby is 11 yrs in and has a little over 83k on her. I have screened the last 5 oil changes and have not found anything at all as far as shavings or debris.
Those oil changes cover almost the last 20k miles. I know Mama Kaw doesn't recommend it, any ideas on this considering the age ang state of my motor. Inquiring minds would like to know.
Stay cool this weekend, and ride safe.
Greg

I used oil once.

I think both of ya were at the Marietta ride a few years back....I know someone who "centerstanded" my 86 barefotted....

and following that, I recall the harrumphing..and muttering, about how my 86 was the best sounding one thy all had heard....prior to my owning TouchOfGray Clyde used Honda oil for 98k miles... I ran the last 40k on it with Castrol GTX 10/40 and 20/50, depending on season.... it purred, and shifted correctly.

JMHO

Call me silly, but I run whatever SAE certified dino 10-40 I can find...if the motor makes it 10yrs and 100K, I'll be happy with that and consider I've gotten my $$ out of it. (05 model)

Call me silly, but I run whatever SAE certified dino 10-40 I can find...if the motor makes it 10yrs and 100K, I'll be happy with that and consider I've gotten my $$ out of it. (05 model)

Dont use energy conserving. Your motor might make but your clutch will not.

Call me silly, but I run whatever SAE certified dino 10-40 I can find...if the motor makes it 10yrs and 100K, I'll be happy with that and consider I've gotten my $$ out of it. (05 model)

  I won't call you silly. That's what I used for 90,000 miles and for the last 10,000 miles I used Rotella 15-w40. Had to replace a water pump a few thousand miles ago but engine is still great!!