I broke my calipers apart and redid the seals and didn't have any issues like you're having but my bike was an 08.
It was awhile back but if I did anything I let them gravity drain first before going through the bleeding process.
Just tried the syringe method couldn't pump any fluid into it. Back to square 1.
yes, they're linked. The rear seems to work fine, like before.Does engaging the rear activate the front?
Going to try reverse bleeding again today, ziptieing the hose so it doesn't come out and make a mess.
If you're reverse bleeding the circuit why do you need to do this? Secondly, what are you using to reverse bleed it with? Thirdly, exactly what procedure, step by step, are you following?
If the bike has linked brakes don't you need to bleed the system at both ends using both the front lever and the brake pedal?
Just redid the right side as well, didn't see anything wrong with it, put it together. Did the bleeds, got a bunch of air out, now I have clear fluid coming out of all the orifices, and I still have super spongy brakes, they build pressure if I pump 3 times but lasts about 3-4 seconds and it's back to the handlebar after that.Well, this is a long shot but maybe ..this could be your issue. I have seen on another bike where a caliper was incorrectly installed The Caliper could not center itself on the slide pins. So when you applied the brakes it took two or three pumps and the brakes would work fine but then a few seconds later - no brakes- you have to pump 3 times again. What happened was the piston on the stuck caliper pushed on one side only of the rotor...the rotor would bend over slightly like a spring... then the rotor would push / spring back the piston back in again to create a large gap.... so you had to pump the lever several times again. Is it possible this is what yours is doing? The other front caliper could center just fine. The other side could not center which caused the problem.
Does anyone have any ideas? I'm quite frustrated and don't know what to do anymore..
I never heard of that procedure. Is it in a book or service manual?
I also don't tighten the caliper mount bolts until I squeeze the brake lever and have the caliper center itself
watched this thread from page one. and refrained from any responses, to allow all the other folks to do so, and find it a bit refreshing, with so little given, just waiting it out.
There is no link. It is just the computer adding pressure to the other half of the system.
There is no link. It is just the computer adding pressure to the other half of the system.
Plus, Gen 1 don't have linked brakes, anyway.
Plus, Gen 1 don't have linked brakes, anyway.
My bike is technically a Gen2? It's a 2011 with linked brakes
CONGRATULATIONS!!!
Well, poop.. I left it with the ziptie on overnight, just went to check, and there was no brake pressure until I pumped it a couple times. I'm going to reverse bleed one more time, see if I get anything out, and then order a master rebuild kit..
keep in mind "bleed down" on fluid pressure, differs from "air ingress'. and should be treated accordingly.. they are completely different, and come from differing issues.. 'member how I mentioned that air ain't coming in thru the master cylinder?, on another issue..? loss of pumping pressure can come from damaged seals, but as there is no "air" issue, it's just loss of "first pump" compression on fluid. Seal replacement is the cure.
Come on now. This thread is only 8 pages... Let's keep it going!I’m pretty sure okrider doesn’t feel the same way. LOL
Well, that's a big kick in the nuts. During my ride yesterday, my brakes were quite good, and today they were much worse, ziptied the lever after a quick test ride, and an hour later, the lever's dead. No pressure at all..
It's common practice to ziptie the lever shut overnight to let air bubbles escape. It also tells you if there's a problem with the system which seems to be the case with mine.
Freddy, someone accidentally discovered that storing with the levers partially compressed overnight allowed the system to improve.
Many (including me) have tried it {on a hard to bleed system} and it does seem to help.
The only think I can think of that seems to make sense is; pulling the lever back compresses' the trapped air, and opens a valve in the master cylinder that allows compressed air to migrate up into the reservoir.
Ride safe, Ted
they rise to the master reservoir? Either way, it's supposed to be able to hold pressure overnight
That's not so. Any air trapped in the line cannot escape/rise into the reservoir because the port thru which it would enter the reservoir is closed when the lever is moved from the released position. Check how a master cyl works.
It may allow any air to rise to the master cyl so that when the lever is released, it immediately enters the reservoir.
If that's true then I would suspect the ABS pump/linked brakes system is where the problem is, as the unit only activates when you ride it faster than 3 mph. Right?
Try NOT tying the lever and see what happens.
'..........and you coulld go ride' and we could have some peace. :rotflmao: