Sometimes I will have to press down 3 or 4 times before the ignition will unlock, so I would like a permanent fix, but the video only showed me the tap method works.  Did I miss something?  Actually I would like to get rid of the entire KPASS system and just use the key as every other bike does.  Is there some easy, inexpensive way to do that?

Sometimes I will have to press down 3 or 4 times before the ignition will unlock, so I would like a permanent fix, but the video only showed me the tap method works.  Did I miss something?  Actually I would like to get rid of the entire KPASS system and just use the key as every other bike does.  Is there some easy, inexpensive way to do that?

Not that we're aware of...

I think that the video is good as far as showing the switch housing.  Everything we've seen so far echoes what Rembrandt said.  I've never heard of an issue with that side of the housing.  Brian is going to have to chime in here as he's fairly knowledgeable on that subject.

My bike is a 2009 but for now i have removed the top portion if the selenoid to get me by, will follow up on the ignition housing next time.. thanks guy.

I kind of like not needing to push in... just turn the knob no real need for the push in activation, they only did that so ur bike will not turn over without the fob, but even without the fob the bike will never turn on..

I've never been a fan of oily lubes for locks as they tend to hold dirt. I use a graphite based lock lube.

I believe the heavier springs appeared in 2011 and are being retrofitted to earlier models by dealers, at least in cases where the bikes are under warranty, and I believe even at least some that are not.

The heavier springs reduce but have not eliminated the switch sticking 'on' problem; I know of a '13 that got stuck on a trip and the new, heavier spring was replaced with the new, heavier spring :-) 

Changing the spring is quite easy; getting to where the spring can be changed is not and requires a couple of security bolts be drilled out from underneath the ignition switch assembly so it can be disassembled. I can be done by the shade tree mechanic but it is a fairly ugly job best left to a competent dealer if they will take care of it.

Sooner or alter, and it looks like it will be later, Kawasaki should re-fit this system with a positive- return system where the key will be rigidly attached (easy boys!) to the activation switch. This would not only show that the switch had stuck in the down or 'ON' position but would allow the operator to manually lift the key and switch with absolutely certainly.

Brian

<snip>

I know dealers were replacing this spring in the 2008 models with the newer heavier version....for a while...not sure if they still are or not. Like I said, if you clean it up and lubricate it, it will work just fine, even with the original 'weak' spring.

Yep, that is one method to get around a stuck switch. Clunky and cumbersome though- there are other, 'slicker' methods but I do not want to belabor that point.

No, you cannot start a C-14 without a valid, working fob that the bike has been coded to recognize. Any bypass methods we are talking about simply bypass the activation switch, not KiPass itself. KiPass cannot be bypassed using any feasible, practical method.

Brian

ive just tried the disconect the grey plug method in case i ever need this. With my Fob in range ive unplugged the grey box, nothing happens there is no click. to turn the key I still have to push down for the click

will this method allow the bike to be started without the fob?

If plugging the gray connector back in does not illuminate the dash screen, make an audible 'click' or anything else, then you do not have the 'stuck activation switch' problem.

That is all there is to it- just unplug the connector and re-plug it and if the activation switch is stuck, the bike will 'turn on', the dash will light and the ignition switch will unlock for (I think) 5 seconds. Then everything will lock up again.

I also sell a commercial product to do this same thing easier and more gracefully and you can take a look at: http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=6976.msg82841#msg82841   But again, if the gray connector being re-connected does NOT cause the dash to light up then you do not have the stuck activation switch and do not need and cannot use any bypass method, including mine.

Brian

When I unplug/plug  the grey block it does not allow me to turn the key, what am i doing wrong? can you explain the procedure to me, just want to know this bypass in case i ever get stuck

If plugging the gray connector back in does not illuminate the dash screen, make an audible 'click' or anything else, then you do not have the 'stuck activation switch' problem.

That is all there is to it- just unplug the connector and re-plug it and if the activation switch is stuck, the bike will 'turn on', the dash will light and the ignition switch will unlock for (I think) 5 seconds. Then everything will lock up again.

I also sell a commercial product to do this same thing easier and more gracefully and you can take a look at: http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=6976.msg82841#msg82841   But again, if the gray connector being re-connected does NOT cause the dash to light up then you do not have the stuck activation switch and do not need and cannot use any bypass method, including mine.

Brian

thanks BDF , thats very helpful.

While we are on the subject of bypass, a forum member that we have all foloowd for a number of years called MGvalerio claims he can defeat the kipass in 15 seconds. Ive read the thread on here where he made the claim and saw all your responses. Initially I dismissed it but coupled with the fact that he is somewhat of an engineering genius, have you seen the modifications he has come up with. He is adamant that his bypass is there . Now someone else on the Net is saying the same. Im inclinded to believe him now.
back in the uk several years ago we had a GM car that could be started by taking out the hazard light switch and plugging it in upside down,the ignition all became active!!

you just never know!

I would suspect a fob communication issue: try removing the key from the back of the fob, holding the fob against the boss on the front of the ignition switch housing and then press the key down. If that doesn't work, hold the fob in the same place and pull the fuse out of the by- pass harness and put it back in. What you may have is two different problems here: a dead fob battery AND a stuck activation switch. Unlikely to be sure but it could happen. But first, I am betting on the bike not sensing the fob due to a dead battery, the fob got damaged, or anything similar. The really easy way is again, use the RFID method in the owner's manual that I have outlined above: hold the fob against that boss and press the key down.

Also, try the other fob just in the odd and unlikely event that the main or primary fob failed for some reason (although both the RF and RFID portions failing at the same time, without tremendous physical damage having been done would be amazing).

Also check the battery cables and make sure you are getting power to any one of the three fuse blocks. If the battery is charged but the main fuse has opened, nothing on the bike will work. If you have a voltmeter or a small test- lamp, see if there is voltage inside any fuse box on the incoming side. I wrote an article quite a while ago on how to do this with an LED but I don't know if you are a COG member and got the Concourier.

One of those things should work. If not, more in- depth diagnostics will be needed.

Best of luck.

Brian

Yesterday after 6 year with my connie I had the same problem. I had read about that.
Ok. I did the procedure with the gray connector but nothing happened.
The battery is Ok
All the fuses are Ok.

Any idea ?
I have plans for this weekend