Author Topic: Advice on setting up a new trailer for Connie.  (Read 20638 times)

Offline Conrad

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Advice on setting up a new trailer for Connie.
« on: May 20, 2016, 05:39:34 AM »
I finally bought a trailer (6X12) for Connie. This will be used to take my bike on our camping adventures and will be towed behind our motorhome.







The trailer has tie down rings at the 4 corners inside but they're not really positioned correctly for the bike. I'll be mounting an e-track system for the tie downs along with a locking MC wheel chock.

My question is about where to place the bike inside the trailer in order to get the weight distributed correctly. I was thinking about placing the rear wheel directly over the rear axel. The salesmen at the trailer dealership said to place the rear wheel 8" in front of the rear axel.

What do you guys think?

I'll have other stuff in the trailer as well but nothing heavy. Our MC gear and maybe two bicycles, not much more than that. Maybe the kayak mounted to the top of the trailer at some point.   
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Offline Ron Dawg

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Re: Advice on setting up a new trailer for Connie.
« Reply #1 on: May 20, 2016, 06:12:13 AM »
Everything I've ever read about trailer loading says 10% of the payload on the hitch (i.e 2000# = 200#). How you get there depends on how you configure your inside. A motorhome won't notice the weight if you go over, the trailer will just sway a little more. If it "wig/wags" you may decide to add a stabilizer bar like on the bigger travel trailers. My toy hauler is a pig without that but pulls nicely when it's engaged.

 If you load up the front with permanently mounted cabinets, tools, etc. you'll set the bike a little further back than if you have an otherwise empty trailer, so you maintain the 10% hitch load, probably centered between the front/rear wheels. So, I suppose you can plan your toolbox, cabinets, gear racks, etc., then weigh the trailer tongue, and then place the bike. THEN place the chock centered under  the front wheel in the middle of the trailer so you get even axle load (L/R).

Otherwise, you'll place the bike with the engine, which is the heaviest component, very slightly ahead of the axle and work the rest of the load around that, keeping an eye on the front load. I've never weighed both ends of any bike, but a fairing, controls, & handlebars might offset the rear drive, seat, and luggage. Maybe you could find a road test somewhere that gives the weight distribution or someone else knows.

When you've balanced the load, as you said use a chock , (the $40 Harbor Freight locking chock works fine for me-plenty strong), to keep the loading spot fixed every time. If you have a changing load, the E-track system looks like it works great to give you flexibility.

One thing my toy hauler has that you might wish to add, is a somewhat rough rubber tread on the ramp and some non-skid tape on the aluminum door frame where your tires will cross it. I almost dumped my C-10 one day when I was loading across some dew covered grass and hit the aluminum frame. The back end kicked sideways and it must have been almost YouTube worthy to see. But once the tires are on the rubber, it's not slick. It's sort of a pebbled surface, not ribbed. You can get the tape at a building supply. Wipe the aluminum with alcohol and it'll stick nicely.

I'll look forward to the pictures.
Ron

2014 C-14 Red

Offline Rhino

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Re: Advice on setting up a new trailer for Connie.
« Reply #2 on: May 20, 2016, 07:55:18 AM »
Main thing is to keep the center of gravity of the trail well ahead of the axel. But don't exceed the tongue weight. If putting the bike as far forward as possible still does not exceed the tongue weight, then I would do that.

BTW: you should paint that trailer magenta  ;D

Offline gPink

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Re: Advice on setting up a new trailer for Connie.
« Reply #3 on: May 20, 2016, 08:16:38 AM »
 :rotflmao:

Offline Zacharykro6

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Re: Advice on setting up a new trailer for Connie.
« Reply #4 on: May 20, 2016, 12:22:10 PM »
That looks like a nice trailer, I have also used the harbor freight locking wheel chocks.

does your trailer have electric brakes?

what is your hitch rated for in terms of tongue weight?

not important to the discussion: When im using my JEEP to tow I always aim for 200-500 lbs tongue weight. Does your trailer have legs so that you can load/unload when it is not attached to the tow vehicle?
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Offline jimmymac

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Re: Advice on setting up a new trailer for Connie.
« Reply #5 on: May 20, 2016, 02:19:26 PM »
Just wing it, that's what everybody else does... ;D

That is a sweet trailer. Even if it does need some Kawi green paint here and there. 8)
The grass isn't always greener.

Offline Walker18

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Re: Advice on setting up a new trailer for Connie.
« Reply #6 on: May 20, 2016, 09:30:44 PM »
Could post 'This Space For Rent', make a few bucks on the way, but if you listen to me, you'll
probably end up with a sponsor like Depends..
COG#8443                                                  
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Offline Conrad

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Re: Advice on setting up a new trailer for Connie.
« Reply #7 on: May 21, 2016, 04:59:46 AM »
Main thing is to keep the center of gravity of the trail well ahead of the axel. But don't exceed the tongue weight. If putting the bike as far forward as possible still does not exceed the tongue weight, then I would do that.

BTW: you should paint that trailer magenta  ;D

 ;D ;D
Northern Illinois   Silverdammit '08 C-14 ABS

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Offline Conrad

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Re: Advice on setting up a new trailer for Connie.
« Reply #8 on: May 21, 2016, 05:05:08 AM »
That looks like a nice trailer, I have also used the harbor freight locking wheel chocks.

does your trailer have electric brakes?

what is your hitch rated for in terms of tongue weight?

not important to the discussion: When im using my JEEP to tow I always aim for 200-500 lbs tongue weight. Does your trailer have legs so that you can load/unload when it is not attached to the tow vehicle?

This is the chock I ordered, should be here on Monday. http://smile.amazon.com/Extreme-Max-5001-5010-Standard-Motorcycle/dp/B00GRRFLOK/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1463828502&sr=1-1&keywords=Extreme-Max-5001

No brakes on the trailer.

Hitch is rated at 5k lbs on both my RV and pick-up.

Yes, the trailer has jack stands attached at the back for loading and unloading.
Northern Illinois   Silverdammit '08 C-14 ABS

"Don't bother me with facts, Son. I've already made up my mind." -Foghorn Leghorn

Offline Conrad

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Re: Advice on setting up a new trailer for Connie.
« Reply #9 on: May 21, 2016, 05:07:03 AM »
Just wing it, that's what everybody else does... ;D

That is a sweet trailer. Even if it does need some Kawi green paint here and there. 8)

Thanks! I definitely need some Kawasaki stickers to break up all that white! 
Northern Illinois   Silverdammit '08 C-14 ABS

"Don't bother me with facts, Son. I've already made up my mind." -Foghorn Leghorn

Offline Conrad

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Re: Advice on setting up a new trailer for Connie.
« Reply #10 on: May 21, 2016, 05:37:11 AM »
Everything I've ever read about trailer loading says 10% of the payload on the hitch (i.e 2000# = 200#). How you get there depends on how you configure your inside. A motorhome won't notice the weight if you go over, the trailer will just sway a little more. If it "wig/wags" you may decide to add a stabilizer bar like on the bigger travel trailers. My toy hauler is a pig without that but pulls nicely when it's engaged.

 If you load up the front with permanently mounted cabinets, tools, etc. you'll set the bike a little further back than if you have an otherwise empty trailer, so you maintain the 10% hitch load, probably centered between the front/rear wheels. So, I suppose you can plan your toolbox, cabinets, gear racks, etc., then weigh the trailer tongue, and then place the bike. THEN place the chock centered under  the front wheel in the middle of the trailer so you get even axle load (L/R).

Otherwise, you'll place the bike with the engine, which is the heaviest component, very slightly ahead of the axle and work the rest of the load around that, keeping an eye on the front load. I've never weighed both ends of any bike, but a fairing, controls, & handlebars might offset the rear drive, seat, and luggage. Maybe you could find a road test somewhere that gives the weight distribution or someone else knows.

When you've balanced the load, as you said use a chock , (the $40 Harbor Freight locking chock works fine for me-plenty strong), to keep the loading spot fixed every time. If you have a changing load, the E-track system looks like it works great to give you flexibility.

One thing my toy hauler has that you might wish to add, is a somewhat rough rubber tread on the ramp and some non-skid tape on the aluminum door frame where your tires will cross it. I almost dumped my C-10 one day when I was loading across some dew covered grass and hit the aluminum frame. The back end kicked sideways and it must have been almost YouTube worthy to see. But once the tires are on the rubber, it's not slick. It's sort of a pebbled surface, not ribbed. You can get the tape at a building supply. Wipe the aluminum with alcohol and it'll stick nicely.

I'll look forward to the pictures.
Ron

Thanks for the advice Ron, I appreciate it.

Wells Cargo says to put 10-15% of the load on the tongue. So I think that what I'll do is once I get the chock on Monday is to put the bike in the trailer and weigh the tongue then position the bike and the chock till I get ~10% of the weight on the tongue (the trailer weighs ~1,300lbs and the bike is ~700lbs so that's ~200lbs tongue weight) I will be putting some cabinets and the like up front in the trailer to hold our gear, tools, and what-not. So that should bring the tongue weight up a bit too.

The GVWR of the trailer is ~3k lbs and with the weight of the trailer being ~1,300 that gives me around 1,700 lbs of cargo weight. Subtract the bike's weight and I have around 1k lbs to play with.   :)
Northern Illinois   Silverdammit '08 C-14 ABS

"Don't bother me with facts, Son. I've already made up my mind." -Foghorn Leghorn

Offline gPink

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Re: Advice on setting up a new trailer for Connie.
« Reply #11 on: May 21, 2016, 06:06:23 AM »
That's a lot of beer,C.

Offline Conrad

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Re: Advice on setting up a new trailer for Connie.
« Reply #12 on: May 21, 2016, 06:19:45 AM »
That's a lot of beer,C.

How much does a keg weigh?    ;)
Northern Illinois   Silverdammit '08 C-14 ABS

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Offline gPink

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Re: Advice on setting up a new trailer for Connie.
« Reply #13 on: May 21, 2016, 06:29:30 AM »
160.5 lbs

Offline Deziner

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Re: Advice on setting up a new trailer for Connie.
« Reply #14 on: May 21, 2016, 08:25:19 AM »
What if it's lite beer?
God does not subtract from a man's life the number of hours spent riding a motorcycle

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Offline gPink

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Re: Advice on setting up a new trailer for Connie.
« Reply #15 on: May 21, 2016, 08:33:11 AM »
 :banghead:

Offline tonedeaf1

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Re: Advice on setting up a new trailer for Connie.
« Reply #16 on: May 21, 2016, 08:56:09 PM »
I have two of these (LA Chocks) and I think they are the best solution for an enclosed trailer:


http://www.baxleycompanies.com/

« Last Edit: May 22, 2016, 10:17:13 PM by tonedeaf1 »

Offline Ron Dawg

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Re: Advice on setting up a new trailer for Connie.
« Reply #17 on: May 22, 2016, 06:19:40 AM »
If you think you might be dropping a fully loaded trailer, an electric tongue jack is sweet. I hate those hand crank jacks, but they do work.
2014 C-14 Red

Offline Conrad

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Re: Advice on setting up a new trailer for Connie.
« Reply #18 on: May 22, 2016, 06:30:33 AM »
What if it's lite beer?

Then it's a lite 160.5 lbs.
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Offline Conrad

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Re: Advice on setting up a new trailer for Connie.
« Reply #19 on: May 22, 2016, 06:40:25 AM »
I have two of these (LA Chocks) and I think they are the best solution for an enclosed trailer. http://www.baxleycompanies.com/

Your link points to an ftp site for some reason.

Nice chocks for sure but for occasional use I'm hoping that the $50 Amazon chock works out. 
Northern Illinois   Silverdammit '08 C-14 ABS

"Don't bother me with facts, Son. I've already made up my mind." -Foghorn Leghorn