Front wheel bearing removal

[Armyguns]

I am going to take my slightly bent rim (thanks to a brutal encounter with a pot hole) to a local place that specializes in wheel straightening and refinishing.  They advised that if they can do it in-house, it would be necessary to remove the wheel bearings.  I've got the wheel off the bike and the rotors removed from the wheel.  The manual leaves a LOT to be desired as far as explaining how to remove the seals and bearings.  I've removed lots of bearings from car wheels, but never needed to from a bike.  Do I knock them out via a drift from the opposite side, like with a car wheel?   Any hints or warnings I need to know? 

Thanks- 

armyguns
2010 C14
 

[Jeremy Mitchell]

The front bearings are very difficult to remove.  If you try to hit the sleeve that is sandwiched between the bearings it is very likely that it will get damaged.  I just did it last week and had to use a bearing puller since there is very little surface area to use a drift to drive out the bearing from the other side.
Here is a link to a similar setup that I used.

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-4581-Hammer-Bearing-Puller/dp/B0002SRH7Y

[bbhzx12]

I haven't done the C-14 but on other bikes I've actually used an extension and socket.  being round and wider than the extension I had good luck getting it through the first bearing, getting enough bite to hit the bearing and move the spacer out of the way.  Not sure if the 14 even has a spacer in the center.  Good luck

[Jeremy Mitchell]

Yes there is a spacer, but not much room to get a good bite on it or the bearing.

[rcannon409]

I always used a pin punch. 1/4 in size was good. It also helped to use a heat gun on the aluminum rim. It expands faster than the steel bearing and helps break the bond between them. 

[B.D.F.]

The best way to pull the wheel bearings is with a bearing puller but they are fairly expensive and require a fair number of adapters for the various bearing sizes. The next best way is to use a split- drift which is a simple but effective tool; it is a drift but split down the middle with the sides sprung out somewhat. You squeeze the ends together, slip it through the bearing opposite the one you want to remove and it expands to grip the inner race edge of the far bearing. The bearing is then tapped out <gently> using a hammer.

Lacking any specialized tools, you can use a soft drift (either soft steel or brass) if you are careful. The drift will have to have a fairly sharp edge to catch the inside of the bearing race. Put the drift through the front wheel and push it sideways against the spacer tube while you slide it toward the far bearing. The drift should slip between the edge of the sleeve and the bearing's inner race and rest against the race sufficiently to nudge the bearing with a hammer (gently). Work the bearing out by tapping on each side so it drives fairly straight.

Once you remove a bearing by driving against the inner race it should not be used again; the balls will slightly deform the outer race where they transfer the hammer's force. Always use a new bearing and always drive it in by the outside race only.

Brian

I am going to take my slightly bent rim (thanks to a brutal encounter with a pot hole) to a local place that specializes in wheel straightening and refinishing.  They advised that if they can do it in-house, it would be necessary to remove the wheel bearings.  I've got the wheel off the bike and the rotors removed from the wheel.  The manual leaves a LOT to be desired as far as explaining how to remove the seals and bearings.  I've removed lots of bearings from car wheels, but never needed to from a bike.  Do I knock them out via a drift from the opposite side, like with a car wheel?   Any hints or warnings I need to know? 

Thanks- 

armyguns
2010 C14

[Son of Pappy]

I had success kinda following Brians frugal method, I used a tapered punch with a shallow grind on the face, tap and move 90 degrees, tap again, repeat until the bearing is out, don't try to get it out all at once, slow and steady.  Get a bearing driver for re install.  Worse case scenario?  The shop should be able to do it in under 5 minutes.

[rcannon409]

To put them in I used a piece of 1/4 bar stock and large washers. Then a nut at each end. It was easy to keep the bearings square this way as well as making it easy to avoid damaging the bearing. They basically squeeze into place.

[B.D.F.]

That is fine but you should really make sure you are pressing on the outside race only. A large socket from a socket set works well as does the old bearing's outer race as long as the old race does not actually enter the bearing's bore; if it does, it will be stuck in place behind the new bearing. Another method that works great is to take the old bearing outer race and grind down the OD so it will not be a press fit in the wheel's bearing ID. The race can be ground using a 1/2" drive extension as the spindle and held against a bench grinder or <better> a belt sander. Only a thousandth of an inch or so need be removed.

Brian

To put them in I used a piece of 1/4 bar stock and large washers. Then a nut at each end. It was easy to keep the bearings square this way as well as making it easy to avoid damaging the bearing. They basically squeeze into place.

[lather]

I put front wheel bearings in the freezer overnight and they dropped in.

[Tactical_Mik]

I put front wheel bearings in the freezer overnight and they dropped in.

If the cold bearings alone doesn't work for someone, heat the wheel hub up as well.  The combination will usually allow the bearing to fall right in place with out any kind of press. 

[Jeremy Mitchell]

+1 on the freezer technique.  Mine didn't fall into place but I was able to use a 27 mm impact socket and it was gently persuaded.  But it might have fallen in had I not just gotten my wheels powdercoated (I had to remove some powdercoat with a dremel).

[gPink]

Did the coater not mask the critical surfaces?

[Jeremy Mitchell]

Did the coater not mask the critical surfaces?

The message didn't get passed along from the "front office/wife"  It wasn't a big deal, I spent 20 minutes with the dremel and they were good as new.  For the price, I am still very happy but I will make sure to talk to the guy running the shop next time.

[MAN OF BLUES]

Don't use a tapered punch. Don't use a SOFT punch. Don't waste time trying to find a "split" bearing tool. All of these are futile.
This wheel in all arespects is no different than the original C10 bearing assembly, with the inner spacer sleeve.
It has been well documented on how to accomplish the task, over in that area, and I wrote a comprehensive artical in the Concourier, explaining the procedure, (Called "Shake, Rattle & Roll") if you have old issues or access to the library on the .ORG site.
if not, I'll explain:
Using a tool like shown, with a sharp square cut edge, slide it in from one side and down till you feel it catch the edge of the bearing. Then smack the punch "sideways", strongly a couple times, this pushes the spacer off to one side, and afords a catch on the bearing. With side pressure on the tool, smack the punch to force the bearing downwards, and as it begins to move, rotate the positions, until complete.
pictures for y'all.
THE TOOL, A SIMPLE TIRE IRON, CHOPPED OFF square, WITH AN ABRASIVE WHEEL.


SMACK THE TOOL SIDEWAYS


SMACK THE TOOL DOWNWARDS, WHILE PUSHING SIDEWAYS


I've replaced Conni wheel bearings in 1 hour, in a parking lot, it's not that tough.

best of luck.

Oh, I don't see why they want the bearings taken out to straighten the wheel....they need them in place to make sure it rotates true...? No?

[VirginiaJim]

Thanks, Rich!

[Armyguns]

Thanks to all for the great responses.  I will post back with progress and also with the results of getting the rim straightened.