Author Topic: Rostra Switch Question  (Read 2757 times)

Offline rocknrod

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Rostra Switch Question
« on: August 13, 2014, 11:32:13 AM »
Installing the Rostra Cruise Control, my switch say's it is a 250-3593 but there is no engage light on it. But when I  opened it up there is a small cree type light there on the engaged light side (top right), just the cover doesn’t have a lens like the power side (left top). Should I forgo the relay? Do I "need" the relay?
Master Chief, US Navy, Retired
2013 C14 Blue, Fenda Extenda, Radiator Screen, HeliBars, Glove Box Mod, 3M paint Protector, Rostra Cruise Control, TechSpec Tank Grips, Lowering Links and Side Stand, Front lowered, Lowered center stand, Balwin Seat.

Offline Daytona_Mike

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Re: Rostra Switch Question
« Reply #1 on: August 13, 2014, 12:56:17 PM »
I am pretty sure you need the relay if you run LED  tail light lamps.
If your running the stock incandescent lamps your fine with out the relay.
Where did you buy your switch? The part listed to buy is Switch 250-3592. I am pretty sure they both work the same.
If you still have fuel in the tank, you are not lost yet
Most motorcycle problems are caused by the nut that connects the handlebars to the saddle

Offline rocknrod

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Re: Rostra Switch Question
« Reply #2 on: August 13, 2014, 01:05:41 PM »
I have stock tailamps.
Master Chief, US Navy, Retired
2013 C14 Blue, Fenda Extenda, Radiator Screen, HeliBars, Glove Box Mod, 3M paint Protector, Rostra Cruise Control, TechSpec Tank Grips, Lowering Links and Side Stand, Front lowered, Lowered center stand, Balwin Seat.

Offline mikeb2411

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Re: Rostra Switch Question
« Reply #3 on: August 13, 2014, 03:22:50 PM »
You need the one relay for the brakes (located under the seat). The other relay is not needed unless you have the controller with the "engaged" light".
Mike
Ojai, CA
2016 Black Triumph Trophy SE

Offline rocknrod

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Re: Rostra Switch Question
« Reply #4 on: August 13, 2014, 04:00:54 PM »
Why I "think" I don't  need a relay is looking at the Rostra wiring diagram it shows using the Brake Light "Hot" side(red from the switch with a 4 amp fuse) and Brake Light "Cold" side (violet from the actuator). In Brian's write up he decided not to do that:
"Section 6 of the wiring section
"6) Power and Ground for the Rostra actuator and Rostra switch: The instructions that come with the Rostra use two different inputs for the power connections; one that is switched with the ignition and one that is 'on' or 'hot' all the time. Also Rostra uses an additional _12 volt wire to connect to the hot side of the brake circuit for safety. I did not wire mine this way as I wanted to make sure the Rostra was not powered up when the ignition was off and simply connected all hot or +12 volt connections to the auxiliary wires under the top left black fairing cover. This method may be less safe than what Rostra instructs to do as a brake light circuit failure on the bike would not be detected the way I wired it. I also picked up ground at the same place as there are a pair of bullet connectors in the black boot that are available. I also made all the switch +12 volt and ground connections at the same time. What I did is as follows: From the Rostra actuator, take the following wires:"
Master Chief, US Navy, Retired
2013 C14 Blue, Fenda Extenda, Radiator Screen, HeliBars, Glove Box Mod, 3M paint Protector, Rostra Cruise Control, TechSpec Tank Grips, Lowering Links and Side Stand, Front lowered, Lowered center stand, Balwin Seat.