Gas Gauge Fix

[deadzed]

I bought my '05 C10 about three weeks ago. I'd bookmarked several useful threads on the forums, and POOF! gone.

So...

How does one go about adding a resistor so the connies gas gauge gives a more accurate reading?

[T Cro ®]

I don't recall the resistance value but the resister leads are simply attached across the two wires coming from the gas gauge; some folks would stick the solid wire ends into the plug itself and add some tape to hold in place. Me I fixed mine long before the resister fix was around to which I kept pulling the sender from the tank and bending the float road litttle by little till it read like I wanted.

[Lodogg2221]

I just did mine about a month ago.  I believe it was a 220ohm resistor.  Got mine at radio shack.
I pulled the plug off the wires at the bike side of the fuel gauge connector, opened the wire crimp ever so slightly, slid the resistor in place, trimmed the excess off the ends, soldered the wires to the connector, trimmed the bridge between the connector terminals on the plastic connector so the resistor would sit inside the connector and hooked it all back up! 
Works well! 
Its a LOT more accurate than it was, but probably not perfect, even so, Im very happy I took the time to do it.

[DeansZG]

I just did mine about a month ago.  I believe it was a 220ohm resistor.  Got mine at radio shack.>>>SNIP<<< 

+1  yep,    it's a 220 ohm 1/4watt    even though I only used electrical tape, it's still offering great resistance (couldn't help it )  9 years later!

[oldsmoboat]

Sorry, mine was done when I bought it.

[medicevans]

Here you go:
http://cog-online.org/clubportal/clubstatic.cfm?clubID=1328&pubmenuoptID=30728


I just use the trip.  This is the first bike I've had with a fuel gauge on it.  I use the trip in my truck too, and that fuel gauge works perfectly, so who knows?

[throb]

I fixed mine long before the resister fix was around to which I kept pulling the sender from the tank and bending the float road litttle by little till it read like I wanted.

  Correct me if I'm wrong, but I read a post somewhere, not on this forum which said after removing the sending unit from the tank, you can plug it back into the bikes harness, turn the switch on and adjust (bend) the float arm until you get the reading you want.  Hence no need to keep pulling the tank off and removing the sender.

[snarf]

  Correct me if I'm wrong, but I read a post somewhere, not on this forum which said after removing the sending unit from the tank, you can plug it back into the bikes harness, turn the switch on and adjust (bend) the float arm until you get the reading you want.  Hence no need to keep pulling the tank off and removing the sender.

I suppose you could do that; but you would have to know exactly where the fuel level 'should' be in the tank.  I have never had my sender out so I dont know if it ever reaches  it's bottom stopping position.
Meh, I just ride till my odometer hits 250; then start looking for a gas station

[throb]

That's probably where it would be handy to have the tank right at the point where you would switch to reserve, and adjust the float arm so it placed the needle just into the red.  Low on my priority list, but maybe something I'll give a shot.

[Bluegray]

My gauge hits the  lower peg at reserve at about 250. That is great for me, no real need for me to adjust.

[Lodogg2221]

Just to clarify something...I dont think the resistor actually fixes the level, though the adjustable resistor may. 
As I understand it, and the reason I did it, was because there is a very fast drop from 3/4 to 1/4 tank.
Mine no longer does that...at empty, its at reserve or very close, so for me, no issue there, it was just something I didnt care for, and could remedy, so I did.
I had another Kawasaki that did the same thing, and it always bugged me.

[GeeBeav]

http://zggtr.org/index.php?topic=551.0

Good pics and instructions