FOB battery dead in maximum 10 days

[l.u.v]

Hi guys,

I didn't find anything on the forum.
Few weeks ago I saw that the battery (3V) from FOB does not last even for a 2 weeks. I have tried all battery brands but all go dead in 10 days maximum. I don't have some moisture or water, I cleaned inside with a spray for electronic parts and isopropyl alcohool, everithing looks clean there and nothing.  I also use CR2032 and CR2025 with no big difference, only 2-3 days.

Any ideea? Do I need to buy a new FOB?

[maxtog]

Few weeks ago I saw that the battery (3V) from FOB does not last even for a 2 weeks. I have tried all battery brands but all go dead in 10 days maximum. I don't have some moisture or water, I cleaned inside with a spray for electronic parts and isopropyl alcohool, everithing looks clean there and nothing.  I also use CR2032 and CR2025 with no big difference, only 2-3 days.  Any ideea? Do I need to buy a new FOB?

My guess is the active FOB is somehow defective in an irreparable way, or you have unbelievably bad luck with battery selection, or there is a freak-of-nature RFI thing going on.  The FOB just listens, all the time, for the bike ignition to request service, and then broadcasts.  If the bike isn't running, the only time it should broadcast is when you press the ignition knob down.  Otherwise, the FOB battery drain should be consistent across the average two service years life.

It is theoretically possible you are storing the FOB somewhere that it is somehow getting a stray signal that causes it to wake up and broadcast (which uses a lot of power).  As a test, you could try another new battery, and when not riding the bike, store the FOB somewhere far away from your typical storage location, alone (not near any other FOB or device), preferably in a metal box.  And see how long it lasts.  This would be a good test for stray RFI somehow being a factor.

Otherwise, you did everything else I would have done, especially making sure there was no moisture/corrosion/short in the FOB that might be draining the battery quickly/prematurely.

[MAN OF BLUES]

odd..
are you putting the battery in "right side up"?, (i.e. the center pole, and insulating internals ridge, visible from the top?), are you flexing the retainer pole pieces, in some strange manner, or using a screwdriver to pry stuff, that would result in a short, which will deplete it?

only 2 things that come to mind, to be a cause..

[connie_rider]

Where is the FOB when not in use?
Is it very near the bike?
If yes, try placing the FOB further from the bike and report back..

Ride safe, Ted

[Freddy]

It should not matter if it is very near the bike with ignition off - but stranger things have happened, like suggesting we drink Dettol.

[maxtog]

It should not matter if it is very near the bike with ignition off

It won't, unless it is something else in the area triggering the FOB to transmit.

[Freddy]

 

[l.u.v]

 I keep the FOB in a bag with Keys and another remote from a Mercedes and BMW.
But in the same bag I have also the second small key from bike, maybe this is the reason?
I changed the batery with the new one and separate the FOB from the rest.
Thanks!

[maxtog]

I keep the FOB in a bag with Keys and another remote from a Mercedes and BMW.

That might do it

But in the same bag I have also the second small key from bike, maybe this is the reason?

Nope, the small, passive FOB doesn't do anything without being powered.  If anything, it is likely those other fobs triggering the bike's one

I changed the batery with the new one and separate the FOB from the rest.
Thanks!

Good luck!  The chances are remote (pun intended), but it is good to rule it out.

[l.u.v]

Hi all,

Unfortunately it is the same situation even with a new brand battery - a good one, Renata.
In the future I must to buy a new FOB, around 330 euro.

Thanks to all for your advice!

[connie_rider]

If I recall, you will have to get the new FOB programed for your bike.
If so, maybe you could buy a used FOD and have that one programmed for your bike?

I do not know the answer to my own question, but might be possible?

Ride safe, Ted

[maxtog]

Unfortunately it is the same situation even with a new brand battery

So you were storing the keyfob far away (perhaps 20+ feet/7 meters) from the other fobs and far away from where you were storing it before?  If so, then you might be right about it just being defective

Because it is so expensive and will cost $ also to program, it might be worth a final test.  It would REALLY suck to spend hundreds of dollars only to find a new one does the exact same thing.   Store the large ACTIVE fob in a closed metal box on the other side of the house or even at work or something.   Use only your small PASSIVE fob to start the bike for the next couple of weeks.  Then test the active (large) fob again.

[Freddy]

A used fob cannot be programmed to the bike - unless the ID is with it, which they are not unless it was a replacement part and the purchaser kept the bag it came in with the ID number on it.  Note that there are 2 different fob frequebcy fobs.  North America and RoW.

I had a problem with my fob some months ago whereby it stopped being recognised by the bike's KIPASS.  I took it to an electronics repairer who examined the circuitry under magnificantion.  He found that a tiny transistor that had one contact 'open circuit.'  He replaced it once he sourced a new one - $30 for a strip of 200 of them!  Perhaps such a person could find the problem with yours.

[MAN OF BLUES]

So you were storing the keyfob far away (perhaps 20+ feet/7 meters) from the other fobs and far away from where you were storing it before?  If so, then you might be right about it just being defective

Because it is so expensive and will cost $ also to program, it might be worth a final test.  It would REALLY suck to spend hundreds of dollars only to find a new one does the exact same thing.   Store the large ACTIVE fob in a closed metal box on the other side of the house or even at work or something.   Use only your small PASSIVE fob to start the bike for the next couple of weeks.  Then test the active (large) fob again.

I've tested FOB functions, and can say for sure, even if a FOB was stored in the glove box, it is never "pinged" by the system until the Stove Key is depressed.. just doesn't happen, so a FOB near the bike, means nothing as far as battery life.. only time the battery comes into play, is during the normal "press down knob,(system "pings" FOB, and return signal), turn knob, start bike" sequence.. I also can say without a doubt, a FOB, sitting 10 feet (2-1/2 meters) from the bike, will not receive the "ping, and return a signal to start"  I sometimes carried my extra fob, inside an Altoids mint tin, in my tank bag, and can say it would not actuate the system when shielded even on the tank,
I'm actually thinking there is some debris inside your FOB, shorting out your battery, and draining it, or, a strange broken connection, allowing a current drain of the FOB batt.. it's all a passive system in whole, and nothing on the bike effects the FOB, till the Stove Knob is pressed.. there might be some vague possibility that something is wonky with the actual ignition switch, where it does not "break the signal after a start/shutdown", and if that is the fact, yes, it would keep "pinging" for a FOB's presence, and the FOB if present withing 6 feet (2 meters), may keep sending a signal.. but that is highly unlikely, and pretty far fetched to see occurring.. kinda like "never seen that before".

Still, really not a big seal, as long as your bike's immobilizer functions were positively set up, and the passive chip / rfid portion functions.. I'd make sure it was done that way, and suggest you pull the batt from your active fob, and follow the "place fob against lock" start to insure it works.

[maxtog]

I've tested FOB functions, and can say for sure, even if a FOB was stored in the glove box, it is never "pinged" by the system until the Stove Key is depressed.. just doesn't happen, so a FOB near the bike, means nothing as far as battery life..

I know and I agree.  But I wasn't talking about storing it near the bike.  All my posts have been about storing it near other active fobs from other manufacturers and other electronics, on the theory that it might be possible that something is waking the fob continuously and that is causing the battery drain.  It is very unlikely this would happen though.

I'm actually thinking there is some debris inside your FOB, shorting out your battery, and draining it, or, a strange broken connection, allowing a current drain of the FOB batt..

That was my first theory, also.  And is far more likely than mysterious radio waves on just the right frequency and coding causing the fob to wake up all the time.  But he said he took it apart and cleaned it well.  It is still possible that it is shoring in a way that simply can't be seen or found, though.  Or he only looked/cleaned just near the battery section or just the back (which is where such a short would most likely be found, but it still could be anywhere in the electronics).

Still, really not a big seal, as long as your bike's immobilizer functions were positively set up, and the passive chip / rfid portion functions.. I'd make sure it was done that way, and suggest you pull the batt from your active fob, and follow the "place fob against lock" start to insure it works.

He must be testing the active part regularly, or wouldn't know when it was working and then not working.  Not sure testing the passive part (which is nearly impossible to fail) matters much, though.  I was assuming he was actually starting and riding the bike regularly during this stuff.

Since it is so expensive and hard to replace, if it were mine, I would have already taken the fob completely apart and carefully examined and cleaned it, under magnification.

It really is a shame the bike doesn't come with two active/passive fobs, like it did for the first two years, instead of one active/passive and one passive.  I never understood the purpose of them replacing one with a passive-only one.  It can't have mattered much on cost on a $14K bike to turn the active system into a single-point of failure system for active operation, with that one point being something that as a good chance of being lost or damaged.  My last two cars came with two active/passive fobs.

[MAN OF BLUES]

my '08 came with 2 real Fobs.. still working, and I'm still happy.. just lucky I guess.. 

[l.u.v]

I come back with a happy answer!
I took the FOB to an electronics technician and he repaired it. He said he had a short circuit due to some electronic parts and he changed all these inside.
2o euro instead 350! 
Thank you all for your advice!

[Pilgrim]

I had a problem with my fob some months ago whereby it stopped being recognised by the bike's KIPASS.  I took it to an electronics repairer who examined the circuitry under magnificantion.  He found that a tiny transistor that had one contact 'open circuit.'  He replaced it once he sourced a new one - $30 for a strip of 200 of them!  Perhaps such a person could find the problem with yours.

Good to see the happy answer.      Freddy nailed it. 

[maxtog]

Wow!  That is great!  Thanks for letting us know the outcome.