Howdy, Everyone.
Hope everyone's having a good memorial day.
I have a 2010 C14 with 18000 plus miles on the odometer.
Original battery has to be replaced, cheap preventative maintenance.
I would appreciate any and all comments.  I have read previously posted thoughts,
just wanted to see if there's anything new.
Thank you for taking the time to read and responde to this post.
And for all who have served, those that are still serving and those will serve,
this weekend is for you.
Stay safe.

I got one of those new fangle lithium batteries. It cost double what a lead acid one costs but dang, it’s real light. That’s a huge plus in my book. I’ve had it for two years now.

Recently we discussed a 16ah-series-YUASA-battery.
Below is the discussion.
My old battery is still holding on, but I intend to go that way eventually.
Was found for $89 at the time of the discussion. {I think @ Revzilla}
NOTE: Will have to modify my battery cover slightly, but EZ to do.

http://forum.cog-online.org/concours-14-zg1400-general-chat-and-tech/16ah-series-battery-will-it-fit-a-c-14/msg666100/#msg666100

Ride safe, Ted

My Yuasa died last week, a YTX14H-BS. Apparently playing around with the new dashcam I recently installed and other items, it drained to a point even trickle charging wouldn't revive it. Judging from the date code, I got about 5 years which in my book is good. Luckily it happened at a park and ride and was able to get home to the car then pick up a new battery. Since I wasn't in the mood to drive further than needed for a Yuasa replacement, another local shop had a MotoBatt equivalent which has less CCA but for the upcoming trips I've planned, I'm happy I'm back on the road. Its another AGM battery, model MBTX12U. A little less in price when I was shopping for the Yuasa replacement, but warranty for 2 yrs (compared to 1 for the Yuasa) and what the service guys said and like is being AMA approved.

So yes, definitely recommend a new battery for preventative maintenance while you can before hitting the road!

I have been buying Deka AGM batteries for my bikes since about 2010 with good results.   I get them at my local farm supply store.

You can get a low cost AGM battery online.  Some guys on the Honda ST1100 Forum have bought them with good results

https://www.batterymart.com/p-ytx14-bs-agm-maintenance-free-battery.html

I bricked two Motobat's in one year. Ask for details...

Over 1,000 posts! Get some, Martha Faulker!

I also thought that the Deka AGM batteries from the farm store were pretty good. I also use them in my car and truck. They were also a really good value, but the last time I went to buy one the price was significantly higher than before. They are still ok for AGM batteries, but they were the same price as a standard battery before.

Lowes carries the Deka for the concours in some places for under $70. That seems reasonable I guess.

I do want to know how the two motobats were bricked. One way is to buy a trickle charger, but not install it. The concours seems to discharge batteries.  A lot of times batteries can recover based on just which charger you have.  Maybe you need a charger that will start at a lower voltage.

Walmart does carry AGM batteries too. They may vary, but I am pretty sure the last one I bought said it was made by Johnson Controls. It wasn't exactly cheap, but they did have it in stock. I am having a hard time justifying ordering a battery online that also costs a premium price and I also don't want just any generic battery so this seemed like a good compromise.

The concours seems to discharge batteries.

Most modern vehicles do.  I tested the "off/standby" current drain on the C14- it is 80mA for the first several seconds, then when the computer goes into full sleep, it was pulling 2.5mA.  That is around 16 days to consume 1Ah.  This will consume half a typical good-condition battery in 100 idle days (around 3 months).  But batteries lose their capacity over their life, so that would probably be enough to cause weak starting or prevent starting on the average battery that is a few years old (that isn't being trickle charged regularly).  Especially true when it is cold.

I ride year-round, so my computations indicate I shouldn't need a trickle charger, but reality seems to contradict my theory.  I use one to help prevent battery wear and hook it up anytime the bike is parked at home, regardless of how long it might be until the next drive.

That is good to know how fast the battery drains.

I wasn't sure if my battery was bad or not so I thought I would get the SigmaTek STX14-BS on Ebay since my local store was out. It was pretty cheap and it came 2nd day, but it is slightly too tall for a 2011 at least. It would probably fit without the foam pads in the upper cover. I  guess I just assumed it would fit.

I have motobatt batteries in all three motorcycles. They are lasting well for me, one is over 5 years. But replacements will be lithium. They are better now, and I am tired of cramming batteries in tight, with no room for extra terminals and wiring etc.

I have motobatt batteries in all three motorcycles. They are lasting well for me, one is over 5 years. But replacements will be lithium. They are better now, and I am tired of cramming batteries in tight, with no room for extra terminals and wiring etc.

actually, replacing a common battery with a lithium, for 3x the cost, is kind of silly... if you live in a cold place, it is hindered.. and altho people perceive "they are tech superior", they are still "infants" in durability studies, like "time"... yeah they are awesome in first use power, within certain temp parameters... and do offer greatly enhanced "life cycle charging s".. but they are still young

I'll also state that even people using a "tender", seem to miss the fact, that unless the terminations are "pristine", and even then, during repeated "cycling" of a tender, those connections still begin to form an invisible resistive connection, by the activity. Coupled with deep drain and deep charge that normally occurs, they produce a separate set of "failed" parameters, i.e., after many "cycles" by the trickle charger, it can't overcome the slight resistive coating between the connections... thus, false sense of it ever occurring (charging that is).

so, 5 years on a conventional battery, @ $100 or less... is like saying you want to make your tires go 20k miles... we know that ain't happening, on this bike... Jeepers, when I read all the oil threads about people doing 5k oil changes using $$$ synthetic oil, i just do double face palms.. and shake my head.

Lithium not silly at all. I was sold as soon as I lifted it off the counter, much lighter than lead.

I think each person will have to weigh (pun intended) the positives vs. negatives (again, pun intended) of lithium vs. lead acid. 

Lithium not silly at all. I was sold as soon as I lifted it off the counter, much lighter than lead.

That's cool. you like it, that's the important part. Your wallet was lighter also, at that point.
Give a feedback report on it's life cycle after 3 more years, or 5 years after initial install.
I'm never overly concerned with trimming weight off my bike, I guess If I was, I'd physically loose 20 lbs off my body..bt/dt, many times.
I wouldn't pay 2x $ for a battery based on its saving me 5 lbs on my bike. I guess that's why I don't drink "Lite Beer"..

joke, so smile, . Not making fun of you. Not trying to incite. Whatever works while it works, is great. When they go Teetzup in BFE we all end up mumbling and spending money, no matter which battery we buy.

when I make commentary about Lithium Polymer batteries, I'm not making stuff up, I was on the "cutting edge" of development on modern Li batt invention, and technology, and have some patents(just one below as an example)  to back my knowledge up.. I did a lot of testing, and development, and KNOW how they work, how they fail, and how they "ignite"... one of my most entertaining Engineering positions of my life.  see below...

Ride safe.

My original battery was 5+ years and I went the motobatt way..  I believe that one was 5+ as well.  Some get excellent life out of batteries regardless of what they are or what they are installed in.  Some don't get sh*t for life on them.  Personally I think it's the individual that determines life of batteries and not the battery itself....bad Karma, bad aura, bad juju...not thinking of anyone in particular of course.  I have no patents on that idea...although I probably should.  I do have some patent leather shoes, though, but I don't think that counts.

WPS Firepower Featherweight Lithium.
 Great for the C14 diet @ 2lbs.
3 months so far no issues. $100

My Yuasa battery has been weak for almost a year now.  It has very little depth, and when it was cold last winter, I was almost stranded once (100 miles from home).  But when the temps went up, shortly after, it was OK (although still no depth).  It is past time to replace it, and it needs doing before it starts to get cold again, so I did...

The Yuasa lasted 4-5 years, always connected to the Battery Tender when parked at home.  4 years if you count from it being weak, 5 total (the original battery only 3 years, but that was also before I started using a Tender).  I was fine with getting another, but they seemed to be impossible to find at a reasonable price.  Frustrated, I decided to just pick one off Amazon that had enough good reviews.  Ended up with this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E0GHUWU

A "Chrome" brand "YTX14-BS", semi-generic, from Amazon, for $48 (free shipping).  It is cheap enough that if it doesn’t last as long, I am OK with that.  I replaced the battery today.  When I removed the old Yuasa, tons of white crud was present on both posts.  More than 2 tablespoons worth of powder, if it were all consolidated.  I cleaned all the connectors and the new posts.  The new battery did not fit the top, snap-down plastic cap because the top of the battery wasn’t quite “standard” shaped, so I snapped only one side.  It seems to fit OK, despite that.  Started the bike quickly/easily.

It came pre-filled and my tester showed it was at least 90% charged.  Now we wait and see if it lasts.  When it is time for another, this one won't be around, so reviews are mostly meaningless.  That is the way it goes now days.

My Yuasa battery has been weak for almost a year now.  It has very little depth, and when it was cold last winter, I was almost stranded once (100 miles from home).  But when the temps went up, shortly after, it was OK (although still no depth).  It is past time to replace it, and it needs doing before it starts to get cold again, so I did...

The Yuasa lasted 4-5 years, always connected to the Battery Tender when parked at home.  4 years if you count from it being weak, 5 total (the original battery only 3 years, but that was also before I started using a Tender).  I was fine with getting another, but they seemed to be impossible to find at a reasonable price.  Frustrated, I decided to just pick one off Amazon that had enough good reviews.  Ended up with this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E0GHUWU

A "Chrome" brand "YTX14-BS", semi-generic, from Amazon, for $48 (free shipping).  It is cheap enough that if it doesn’t last as long, I am OK with that.  I replaced the battery today.  When I removed the old Yuasa, tons of white crud was present on both posts.  More than 2 tablespoons worth of powder, if it were all consolidated.  I cleaned all the connectors and the new posts.  The new battery did not fit the top, snap-down plastic cap because the top of the battery wasn’t quite “standard” shaped, so I snapped only one side.  It seems to fit OK, despite that.  Started the bike quickly/easily.

It came pre-filled and my tester showed it was at least 90% charged.  Now we wait and see if it lasts.  When it is time for another, this one won't be around, so reviews are mostly meaningless.  That is the way it goes now days.

I think the corrosion is a big part of the problem. Just saying.