Lowering the bike/seat

[connie_rider]

Like Maxtog, I haven't hit the fairing, but part of the reason is, I added preload to the springs, and I am a bit more careful since lowering the bike.

Maxtog, which Links did you use to get the 1" drop?
I looked thru the 7 pages and didn't see it quickly so I decided (out of laziness) to just ask.
I have the Muzzy's and {as I recall} the actual measurement change (Axle to frame / on center stand) was 1 1/2" 1 1/8" change.

As I noted earlier, I set the suspension and recently decided it's just too stiff for normal riding.
So, I'm wanting to change to links to a set that give's me less drop. {I can then soften the suspension a bit}.

MAXPWR, after you change your suspension preload, remeasure the seat height {using your method}.
I think you'll find that the seat height will be higher.

Ride safe, Ted

[maxtog]

Like Maxtog, I haven't hit the fairing, but part of the reason is, I added preload to the springs, and I am a bit more careful since lowering the bike.

I think my preload is stock.  I have hit some really hard/big/major things and never bottomed out on the front or rear.

Maxtog, which Links did you use to get the 1" drop?

Muzzy's

I have the Muzzy's and {as I recall} the actual measurement change (Axle to frame / on center stand) was 1 1/2" change.

That is not what I measured- on mine it ended up exactly 1" rear at the axle to frame.  I expected 1.5" but it wasn't.

[connie_rider]

Maxtog, I'm not sure we're on the same page when we're measuring.
In an earlier post you said;
As I warn in my first postings, the proper location to measure actual drop is from the axle center of the rear wheel.  If you measure the back of the frame, there will appear to be more drop, or forward of the axle, it will appear be less drop.  So who even knows what claimed numbers mean until you put it on and measure it yourself (just make sure to do it on level ground and make sure to bounce in the bike a few times first).

It sounds like your measuring from the axle to the frame, with weight on the rear tire?
If yes, that is not how I am doing it and does not give me the information I'm looking for.

To find the actual (geometric) change you get from changing the links, you have to measure from the axle to the frame {directly above the axle}, with the bike on the center stand, the rear tire off the ground, and the rear suspension fully extended..

PS: I am "not" saying your measurement is not good.
      Yours actually tells you how much the seat height changed..
      That is good as it is real world. But your methods includes spring sag.
         Spring sag is different on every bike, so the spring sag has to be out of the measurement to get an actual number.

I'm looking for an actual number to use in a calculation.

Ride safe, Ted

[maxtog]

It sounds like your measuring from the axle to the frame, with weight on the rear tire?

Yes, the sitting height change of the bike, after bounced a few times to settle the suspension.

PS: I am "not" saying your measurement is not good.  Yours actually tells you how much the seat height changed.. That is good as it is real world.

To me, the real-world was all I cared about (at the time).

But your methods includes spring sag.   Spring sag is different on every bike, so the spring sag has to be out of the measurement to get an actual number.

But it was held constant because I didn't change anything else in the suspension before/after the measurements....   You are quite correct, however, that this will not really address "bottoming out" the suspension on just any Concours.  I can't provide an exact number for that, unfortunately.   I am not sure anyone really can because there are just too many variables.   I do believe it is still useful as a "relative" number, though, because the suspension was "stock" at that point.  So if the bike is put back to stock settings (and weight, if applicable), one should still get my results with the Muzzy links and the listed raising of the front fork tubes.

[connie_rider]

All (Particularly Maxtog),, I went back and remeasured the amount my rear whell was lowered using the Muzzy Links.
Turns out that my memory was "wrong".   It was not 1 1/2". It was 1 1/8"...
     {Yea, I admit it. I made a mistake..}

I then used the corrected dimensions to calculate how much length change it takes to get different amount's of drop..

As I sed in an earlier poet, I'm trying to build my own Lowering Links. (Target is a 3/4" drop...)
  I'm doing this as I'm dragging things in the twisties, but don't want the bike raised to full height.
  and, I wanna see if I can do it.... <evil grin>

  Watch out world, Ted's homemade Lowering Link is nearing completion..

Ride safe, Ted

PS: I was also able to determine that a ZX-14 Link will lower a C-14   2 1/2"...
       I feel that is too much to lower a C-14, but {if you really need it low} it is a possibility..