Doing some fork maintenance...

[bbroj]

Unfortunately, I missed the tech session at the National that covered pretty much exactly what I'm planning to do. There are plenty of previous threads and lots of reading, most of which just adds to my confusion. I bought 10w, because it's all the local shop had, but I want to firm up the front end, it bounces like a beach ball! I'm hoping just the age of the oil will be enough to make the difference. The bike is an '06 and the fork oil is most likely original. The shop told me I could stiffen it up a bit by adding a few cm more than what is called for. It seems reasonable to me, but rebound damping is what I believe I want to improve, not spring rate. Will new oil improve the "bouncieness" I want to fix? Also, I am thinking about changing the oil in the rear shock, anyone have a link to a procedure?

[CRocker]

For the shock...

Try here:  http://cog-online.org/clubportal/clubstatic.cfm?clubID=1328&pubmenuoptID=29927

I just did this to a shock I will be putting on my bike next week...it went real easy...but, I haven't ridden on it yet...

Good luck!

[txfatboy]

Without sounding too personal, what is your normal riding weight (aprox.)? Just one up and under 200 lbs. the 10 weight oil will probably be ok. Over 200 lbs, or normally two up, I think most people go with the 15 weight oil. IIRC adding a little more fork oil will firm up the compression dampening, which can cause the ride to feel a little "firmer" but won't help with sag/droop or how much the suspension compresses when your sitting on the bike.

[bbroj]

Not too personal, I'm about 185 and usually ride solo. Sounds like just fresh oil should do what I'm looking for and if I wand a bit more rebound damping I can add a bit more oil to each leg, sound about right?

Thanks for the link to the rear shock procedure, I may give that a shot as well.

[bbroj]

From the info I got from the provided link, I won't be doing the rear shock tomorow. I thought it would use fork oil. I seem to need to get "suspension fluid".

[turbojoe78]

Murph sells a kit to do your rear shock ... http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1_97&products_id=119

[bbroj]

One thread I read said to check oil height with the fork compressed, the book says fully extended. Extended is easier for me, I'm doing this on the bike with a vacuum pump, which is correct?

[Strawboss]

I've done it both ways....forks that is. The real proper way is to remove the forks completely and dump out the oil as stated in the book. But this past week I extended the forks and vacuumed out the oil to change it. The book gives you two numbers concerning the amount of oil you put into the forks, dry and wet, if you are vacuuming it out, I used the wet number as a guide, always measure though, and after you pump the forks a few times after initially adding the oil. Now, I did one fork a time, if you do both forks at the same time, you should get the front tire up off the ground to keep the forks extended and to pump them, I use a piece of wood with a small jack under the belly pan crossbrace, tie off and secure the center stand so it doesn't fold up and retract, that would not be good. I've measured extended and compressed.

[bbroj]

My issue is do you measure compressed or extended, and which number do you use? I will likely measure what is in there before I drain (extended), and use the number that is closest to that when I refill. Elvin's Wiki says the book changed how the measurement is taken in the post '94 bikes, but I can't find where the book (I have the Kawi manual) says that, even in the supplement. I have Murph's tipover bars, a perfect spot for jack stands and I have a method for placing them myself. I may pull the wheel and fender so I can pump each leg by hand, without having to take the bike off the stands and get it back up on the center stand without the springs helping to hold it up.

[Strawboss]

I myself used the compressed method. Fill the forks with the initial maount of oil, no need to to remove wheel, with the bike secured grab the two forks and pump them up and down a few times, again, for me its easier to do this than remove the fender and wheel. Have a friend or use another jack and compress the fork all the way. Measure. The book tells you what number to use extended or compressed. I think the number for compressed was 155mm? About 6 inches? I can't recall the extended number, but its in the book. This is to the top of the forks, just oil, no springs or spacers, washers or emulators. Murph sells a nice measuring tool, I made one myself. Off the top of my head, I think the "wet" number for amount of oil was 322ml? Its in the book. Again, this is my method, others will chime in and add to it.

[Daytona_Mike]

The easiest way to drain the oil is with an air driven impact wrench. Simply remove the damper rod bolts and the oil drains out.
On an 06 model your supposed  use the fully  compressed method. The level should be 145mm to 150mm from the top of the tube.(no springs installed)
If your going to remove the forks and you have not replaced the seals in a while it would be a good time to do it.
That is also a good time to inspect, re-grease and adjust your steering stem. One of the most neglected and improperly adjusted parts on the bike (even when brand new)

[MAN OF BLUES]

......On an 06 model your supposed  use the fully  compressed method. The level should be 145mm to 150mm from the top of the tube.(no springs installed)
......

are you sure?
I don't have my book handy, but I think it's a bit more, and I pulled this from a note I sent to Greg (pfloydgad) a few months back, I know I had the book in hand when I sent this to him:
"you need to take the fill measurement with the forks compressed on your model year,
use a bungy to pull the fork sliders up and hold them up top for that. My old book is showing a level from the top of the fork, along the axis of the tube at the center, to be 171mm from the top (6.73 inches... 6-3/4" will be fine...).  "

also, make sure you have enough fluid before you start...I say this because I have been there, and done that....and having to run for a second bottle sucks....
post 94 bikes take 320 ml of fluid (10.82 oz.),  for each fork....so if you just bought a pint bottle, you are gonna need more....


as for the books giving 2 methods, compressed or extended, those are specific to model year, and cannot be interchanged. the forks internals differ in post 94 and pre 94. pre 94 used the fully extended measurment, post 94 uses the compressed method, and both are done with the springs out.

[Strawboss]

I thought I read 150 or 155 in the Kawasaki manual, I know it wasn't over that. I remember cause I asked here about the conversion to U.S. from metric and it was just short of 6 inches. 

[MAN OF BLUES]

I thought I read 150 or 155 in the Kawasaki manual, I know it wasn't over that. I remember cause I asked here about the conversion to U.S. from metric and it was just short of 6 inches.

hmmmmmmm
 hang tight, I have to fire up my laptop....that's where my manual lives.... be right back.

ok, back, my manual has 3 supplements, in addition to it's original form, the 94-97 (A9 thru A12) section is showing 379 ml +/- 4ml of sae 10w20 oil on a fresh build, and 330ml for a "change" without complete disassembly, oil level noted as 171mm, fully compressed, without spring, spring free length should measure 543.3mm, and service limit is 533mm

the section for A15 and up (2000) specifies that there was no change in the data in the 3rd suppliments data for forks.

I don't have a hardcopy book on the 2000-2006 to refer to, if you do, I will note it in my files as such...

[CRocker]

From the Supplement for newer forks...post '93

Capacity...379ml (+-4ml)...or 330ml at oil change

Level......171mm fully compressed without spring


And, to think...all I do is pour 330-335ml in each tube...and put 'em back together...!

[bbroj]

My supplement mentions nothing about compressed or extended, and the body of the book says extended. My supplement also says nothing about the longer spring length, and mine did measure close to 545mm as MOB stated, not the shorter length listed in the book. It seems I am missing a few supplements. In any case, I did my best to suck all the old oil out with a vac pump, both sides yielded about 320ml. I carefully measured 330ml (the "change" value from my book) of new oil and added it to each leg, pumped and tried to measure, with the legs extended. I say "tried" to measure as I was using an automotive oil dipstick with a tape "flag" on it as a reference. I don't have all of my tools with me (living in my RV), and a tape measure escaped being packed. I managed to measure the springs using a paper tape measure in an emergency sewing kit in one of the camper drawers! In any case it's done, I appreciate the help and hope it makes a difference in the way the bike handles. Only one short ride so far and it does seem better.

[Strawboss]

I'm at work, so I can't check till tomorrow morning, and the tool I used is just an old rifle cleaning rod marked with a piece of tape, it may well be 171mm, but I thought it was just under 6 inches not 6 3/4 inches. But, I did use the correct amount of oil, so, its got to measure 171mm, cause I filled it to the tape mark.

[Strawboss]

It bothered me all day about how I got the oil level switched. I looked in the Kawasaki manual, there it was 171mm, then I looked at the instruction Race Tech sent and looked at the chart in the instructions for the Concours emulator kit and there it was, "150mm" compressed no springs. So, I was going off the info Race Tech sent. Kawasaki say 171mm, Ract Tech says 150mm, I'll go with Kawasaki and drain 3/4" out of my forks, maybe thats why I've been having issues with the firmness of my front suspension?

[Summit670]

I see the 10w20 recommendation from Kawi.  Does that mean that 10w20 motor oil will suffice and does it allow for more consistent damping in hot and cold vs say using a 15w? 

[Strawboss]

I would not use motor oil in my forks.