Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: VirginiaJim on December 07, 2015, 02:08:41 PM
-
This is reposted from the UK forum...
http://www.gtr1400.co.uk/forums/index.php?topic=5184.0 (http://www.gtr1400.co.uk/forums/index.php?topic=5184.0)
Anyone with a 10 on up see this yet?
-
No, have not seen that one before- clearly a KiPass failure.
Looks like the screw may have been over- tightened.
Brian
This is reposted from the UK forum...
http://www.gtr1400.co.uk/forums/index.php?topic=5184.0 (http://www.gtr1400.co.uk/forums/index.php?topic=5184.0)
Anyone with a 10 on up see this yet?
-
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=18029.msg220697#msg220697 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=18029.msg220697#msg220697)
Similar, but different. This one looks like a screw problem, suppose mine could have been, too (where the grip heather switch mounts).
-
You might want to add an Easy Boys! after the 'screw problem' part of that second sentence.
:-)
Brian
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=18029.msg220697#msg220697 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=18029.msg220697#msg220697)
Similar, but different. This one looks like a screw problem, suppose mine could have been, too (where the grip heather switch mounts).
-
One of my panels failed right where the well nut is located. Just looks like a missing screw. Mainly because it is a missing screw. ::)
I must have used it too much when it was new... :P
Probably from landing a monster wheelie. 8)
-
No, have not seen that one before- clearly a KiPass failure.
Looks like the screw may have been over- tightened.
Brian
:goodpost: Probably didn't realize it at the time and the vibrations/time/environmental conditions compounded the issue.
-
Looks like the screw may have been over- tightened
I agree. I bet that sucker was just a little too tight and over time, it finally stressed the plastic too much and with a hard bump, game over. Sorry to see that kind of thing happen, it is a pain.
-
Doesn't happen on the 08/09 bikes.
-
You might want to add an Easy Boys! after the 'screw problem' part of that second sentence.
:-)
Brian
Ha! I thought about it, but didn't want to be accused of plagiarizing your lines.
-
I was relieved seeing the first picture here and it was a bike part. I feared this was going to be some Walmart type pics of diverse people showing there backsides.
-
VirginiaJim,
My 2011 has done that. Stinks.
-
VirginiaJim,
My 2011 has done that. Stinks.
It really is VERY easy to overtighten many of the bodywork screws on the C14. They like to use those rubber bushings below the screws. The bushings are nice because they can help to eliminate rattles and keep things from loosening. But they also crank up the force on the plastic and make it difficult when tightening to know when to stop. And I doubt there are specs for the torque for body screws :) (Nor have I seen a torque-metered screwdriver... and who would do that, anyway???)
-
It really is VERY easy to overtighten many of the bodywork screws on the C14. They like to use those rubber bushings below the screws. The bushings are nice because they can help to eliminate rattles and keep things from loosening. But they also crank up the force on the plastic and make it difficult when tightening to know when to stop. And I doubt there are specs for the torque for body screws :) (Nor have I seen a torque-metered screwdriver... and who would do that, anyway???)
I know, Max...
I've had to pull that panel a few times for various things like when I installed my Rostra, or when I change my air filter, etc.
Didn't think I overtightened it enough to cause that, but... It did.
If I had left it any looser, it probably would have vibrated out.
You wouldn't think using a 3" 3/8's extension with a torx bit by hand would have overtightened it enough to crack it, but mine split completely into.
It didn't break though when I tightened it. It waited for many miles later. Looked down one day... there it was... cracked in two at the bolt.
-
No, have not seen that one before- clearly a KiPass failure.
Looks like the screw may have been over- tightened.
Brian
Look exactly like that. Someone hamfisted it.
-
It really is VERY easy to overtighten many of the bodywork screws on the C14. They like to use those rubber bushings below the screws. The bushings are nice because they can help to eliminate rattles and keep things from loosening. But they also crank up the force on the plastic and make it difficult when tightening to know when to stop.
Well, now mine is cracked too (below glovebox trim near the heater control). And it has been months since I last removed that panel and pretty sure I didn't over-tighten. It just "appeared" after several hot days. For now, it is just a single crack, and doesn't connect to the screw (it is on the other side, near the handlebars). Makes me sick, but, oh well. Next time I take it out for some reason, I will look and see if there is a way to mend it from behind with epoxy or something :(
-
A new one is only about $65. So before spending a lot of money with plastic welding services or making something out of epoxy, you might just want to order a new one. It does, however, appear to me that this piece is under-engineered. The way it cracks looks like the stress of the openings and the inserts is just too much for that thickness and grade of plastic.
-
A new one is only about $65. So before spending a lot of money with plastic welding services or making something out of epoxy, you might just want to order a new one. It does, however, appear to me that this piece is under-engineered. The way it cracks looks like the stress of the openings and the inserts is just too much for that thickness and grade of plastic.
Yeah, it always seemed to me to be "too thin", from the first time I disassembled it. I thought "surely this is going to break, especially over time when it is bound to get more brittle". Interestingly, I found the part on one major site- it is the only one of all those shown in the explosion diagram that is "not available". $7 for some epoxy might do the trick. It isn't structural and I don't think it is like to get worse, and I am in no rush to fix it. Might be quite a while before I take that panel off for some other purpose.
-
You might want to add an Easy Boys! after the 'screw problem' part of that second sentence.
:-)
Brian
Screw problems in a thread titled 'Strange Cracks'. Yeah, we're gonna need a few 'easy boys' here and there.
-
Screw problems in a thread titled 'Strange Cracks'. Yeah, we're gonna need a few 'easy boys' here and there.
:banana
-
Word of the day is incorrigible.
-
"Strange cracks" ... this is what many males seek, especially in younger years.
-
Incorrigible: a state of being meaning one is able to be encouraged.
Brian
Word of the day is incorrigible.
-
To much torque
-
Well, now mine is cracked too (below glovebox trim near the heater control).
Finally have a photo of it. I pressed on the right side a bit to help let it show.
-
At least the split is so straight, it almost looks like a seam.
An easy way to repair/limit more damage:
On the underside, use fiber tape and E6000 glue. Rough up the plastic with sandpaper for bite. I used this method on my R2D2 scooter’s front fender and it worked well. The E6000 glue is flexible, but strong enough to keep it together.
The attached pic is the fibertape before adding the glue. Yours would be on a much smaller scale, of course. That whole fender was split pretty badly, but is holding up nicely.
You could always try some sort of epoxy, as well.
-
At least the split is so straight, it almost looks like a seam.
An easy way to repair/limit more damage:
On the underside, use fiber tape and E6000 glue. Rough up the plastic with sandpaper for bite. I used this method on my R2D2 scooter’s front fender and it worked well. The E6000 glue is flexible, but strong enough to keep it together.
The attached pic is the fibertape before adding the glue. Yours would be on a much smaller scale, of course. That whole fender was split pretty badly, but is holding up nicely.
You could always try some sort of epoxy, as well.
That is exactly my plan. My amazon order came in, I have JB Weld plastic epoxy, black. I planned on using some fiberglass mesh tape and the epoxy, after roughing the underside. Have no idea when next that panel will come off, but when it does, I should be ready.
-
Many photos lost when forum was reloaded.
Here are two I found. First is the crack, second is showing the repair I made from the bottom, using fiberglass mesh and JB Weld.
-
Many photos lost when forum was reloaded.
Here are two I found. First is the crack, second is showing the repair I made from the bottom, using fiberglass mesh and JB Weld.
Crap. I had no idea this was common thing. I noticed cracks in the exact same spot just this week. I attributed it to spilling a little bit of brake fluid when I bled the clutch and missing some wheb i cleaned it. Fixed mine with some expoy and hoping it lasts.