Mike, Do you know if the flared tool is flared enough to get to the lower race, anyone here tried it? It does look simple and effective if it will work on our bikes. I used a similar race driver ("free" rental from O'Riely Auto), but think a threaded press type would have been better. My races started out crooked and it was difficult to drive them in straight, especially from below. It worked, I just think the threaded ones would be more accurate.
If you are asking about the fixed "cup" portion, the lower can't be popped out with that "spead tube" type tool, there isn't sufficient exposed surface for it to work.
The factory tool uses a small blade like anuallar chisel edge on a split shaft, which wedges into the groove that exists only due to the radiused edge on the i.d. of the face and the i.d. of the cup , which is the same diameter as the head tube's bore unfortunatly.
if you have access to a mig welder, you can take a big washer. and weld it in the conical area of the cup from below, and use a drift from the top, same but opposite for the top cup.
the factory tools, and methods with photos for replacing both, are in an artical I wrote for the Concourier, entitled "Shake, Rattle, & Roll", and can be found in the COG online Concourier library.
