Author Topic: 10wt fork oil with Sonic 1.1 springs (Read 8443 times)

hlh1 · « **on:** January 02, 2012, 11:41:44 AM »

There used to be something on this board about this but so much is missing since the crash. I just installed a ZZR rear shock and now the front feel a bit harsh with the 1.1 springs and 15 wt oil. Would going to 10 wt oil help this?

George R. Young · « **Reply #1 on:** January 02, 2012, 12:42:38 PM »

Front end bump harshness is a combination of taut springs and velocity-squared compression damping (thanks to el cheapo damper rod fork design).

Using thinner oil will reduce the harshness on compression, and unfortunately also the rebound damping.

I think the best answer is cartridge emulators, but they're not cheap.

westkyguy · « **Reply #2 on:** January 02, 2012, 01:10:18 PM »

What oil level you running? Drop it a bit to soften it up as the air space is a spring too. Try 170 mm of Dexron III .

hlh1 · « **Reply #3 on:** January 02, 2012, 01:23:18 PM »

I'm running the stock level, per the manual. What viscosity is "dexron III"?

Daytona_Mike · « **Reply #4 on:** January 02, 2012, 05:26:16 PM »

Quote from: hlh1 on January 02, 2012, 01:23:18 PM

I'm running the stock level, per the manual. What viscosity is "dexron III"?

That is GM's old auto transmission fluid back a few decades ago . They moved on to Dexron5 or 6 I believe. It is nice and thin but it is very hygroscopic like brake fluid. I am not sure about its use in emulsion tube type shocks. I guess it should be fine since it is not exposed to the moisture in the air.
I think your better off investing in cartridge emulators. They really work well. I am running 1.2 Sonics and emulators and I think I may go up to 25 wt. from 15wt. I softened the emulators and it soaks up the bumps pretty good but I want to lessen my rebound a little.

hlh1 · « **Reply #5 on:** January 02, 2012, 05:51:25 PM »

How easy is it to adjust the emulators once they're installed?

George R. Young · « **Reply #6 on:** January 02, 2012, 06:57:08 PM »

You can fish them out with a coat hanger, once the fork caps are off.

hlh1 · « **Reply #7 on:** January 02, 2012, 07:18:59 PM »

I have a set of emulators collecting dust because I've not had the "guts" to drill holes in my damper rods and then go through the adjustment process.

George R. Young · « **Reply #8 on:** January 02, 2012, 07:41:38 PM »

Maybe this will help:

http://web.ncf.ca/ag136/forkUpgrade.htm

Based on recommendation from SISF, I changed from yellow to softer blue blow-off spring. He also recommends drilling extra holes in the plate.

hlh1 · « **Reply #9 on:** January 03, 2012, 06:18:20 AM »

It's Winter. Maybe I should take a crack at this.

T Cro ® · « **Reply #10 on:** January 03, 2012, 07:04:35 AM »

Quote from: hlh1 on January 03, 2012, 06:18:20 AM

It's Winter. Maybe I should take a crack at this.

It is really no where near as hard as it sounds; plus you can come here to ask questions from those of us who have installed emulators before. Drilling out of the damping rod holes is not hard but does make some people squeamish as the idea of purposely ruining perfectly good parts sounds so "one way road" final.

hlh1 · « **Reply #11 on:** January 03, 2012, 08:07:18 AM »

It also gives me pause that I may have to pull the emulators, after installation, for tuning...

sas mayhem · « **Reply #12 on:** January 03, 2012, 08:19:33 AM »

Quote from: T Cro ® on January 03, 2012, 07:04:35 AM

It is really no where near as hard as it sounds; plus you can come here to ask questions from those of us who have installed emulators before.

+1
It really is not hard at all. I did mine in my garage with all hand tools. The drilling parts is a straight drill thru, just make sure you deburr the holes. But when you done your handling will be like night and day. It will really tie in your ZZR. Once you get everything apart you will see how basic it is...

Cheers
Ron

T Cro ® · « **Reply #13 on:** January 03, 2012, 08:29:12 AM »

Quote from: hlh1 on January 03, 2012, 08:07:18 AM

It also gives me pause that I may have to pull the emulators, after installation, for tuning...

Remove Fork Cap, Pull Fork Spring, Fish out Emulator with long reach magnet. A little messy yes but that's about all there is to it. Depending on how much research you do before and you may not need to pull them out at all; I was happy with mine as installed. If not it should only take a couple of tries.

hlh1 · « **Reply #14 on:** January 03, 2012, 10:35:28 AM »

I've just finished reading the Race Tech installation instructions for their emulators. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like the emulators will increase the spring preload by the amount of their thickness. Is this a problem? I don't think I want any more spring preload than I already have with the Race Tech 1.1 springs.

Daytona_Mike · « **Reply #15 on:** January 03, 2012, 11:14:52 AM »

Quote from: hlh1 on January 03, 2012, 10:35:28 AM

I've just finished reading the Race Tech installation instructions for their emulators. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like the emulators will increase the spring preload by the amount of their thickness. Is this a problem? I don't think I want any more spring preload than I already have with the Race Tech 1.1 springs.

Pre load does not effect the spring rate of any spring. Just change the word 'Pre-Load' in your head to the words 'Up and down' .
That is all pre-load means. It has nothing to do with stiffer or softer . Race Techs make the bike go 'up' by its thickness which is about one to two marks on your C10 factory pre load adjusters which you would unscrew to go back down

hlh1 · « **Reply #16 on:** January 03, 2012, 11:24:58 AM »

Quote from: Daytona_Mike on January 03, 2012, 11:14:52 AM

Pre load does not effect the spring rate of any spring. Just change the word 'Pre-Load' in your head to the words 'Up and down' .
That is all pre-load means. It has nothing to do with stiffer or softer . Race Techs make the bike go 'up' by its thickness which is about one to two marks on your C10 factory pre load adjusters which you would unscrew to go back down

Ok, understand, and my pre-load adjusters are already backed up completely with the 1.1 springs so this means my fork ride height will increase slightly.

Daytona_Mike · « **Reply #17 on:** January 03, 2012, 01:37:27 PM »

Yes and no. You have two options. You can loosen the bolts in the tripple tree and slide the fork tubes up a little which will lower the bike.
You can remove the spacers tubes you made for the Sonics and shorten those.

Why are your pre load adjusters all the way out? If you cut your spacers correctly you should be almost all the way in (2 to 3 rings showing) to the get the same height as stock.

hlh1 · « **Reply #18 on:** January 03, 2012, 02:08:15 PM »

Quote from: Daytona_Mike on January 03, 2012, 01:37:27 PM

Yes and no. You have two options. You can loosen the bolts in the tripple tree and slide the fork tubes up a little which will lower the bike.
You can remove the spacers tubes you made for the Sonics and shorten those.

Why are your pre load adjusters all the way out? If you cut your spacers correctly you should be almost all the way in (2 to 3 rings showing) to the get the same height as stock.

Pre-load adjusters are all the way out in the hopes softening the front end, which is the reason I've started this thread.

Now I just need a free Saturday to pull the forks and install the emulators.

T Cro ® · « **Reply #19 on:** January 03, 2012, 04:05:54 PM »

Quote from: hlh1 on January 03, 2012, 10:35:28 AM

I've just finished reading the Race Tech installation instructions for their emulators. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like the emulators will increase the spring preload by the amount of their thickness. Is this a problem? I don't think I want any more spring preload than I already have with the Race Tech 1.1 springs.

No it does not increase the overall preload as you will in turn make new preload spacers that are shorter...

News:

Author Topic: 10wt fork oil with Sonic 1.1 springs (Read 8443 times)