Author Topic: Throttle body sync (Read 21286 times)

lather · « **on:** July 15, 2011, 06:38:03 PM »

OK, cam chain is unbunched and valve cover, sticky coils and PAIR valve re-installed (but blocked off) so now time to move on to the TB sync. I notice that Video Fred Harmon removed the fuel tank and accessed the #2 vacuum plug through the left throttle body hatch. I see no mention of this methodology on the FSM! After extensive flash light aided peering it looks like Fred's way is the only way. Has anyone been able to connect a line to the #2 without removing the fuel tank?

What have I gotten myself into

MAN OF BLUES · « **Reply #1 on:** July 15, 2011, 10:11:30 PM »

the trick is to install hoses routed out to the left side of the frame prior to re-installing the valve cover and all the other stuff....bit late now....
with the hoses routed out to the left, numbered, plugged and held in a spark plug loom clip, it makes it easy for the future use....

B.D.F. · « **Reply #2 on:** July 16, 2011, 06:57:54 AM »

Yeah but like Rich said, it really helps to have the valve cover off to get to that port without removing the fuel tank. If the valve cover is already back in place you will have to decide if you want to remove it again or pull the tank. Removing the tank is really not hard nor does it take long to do and it is only difficult to handle if it is full or nearly so.

And again, as Rich said, put vacuum tubing on each T. B. port, route them all to the left and be done with it for all time. Cap the lines and either route them to someplace like under the frame support rail or capture the ends in a tie- wrap or similar.

The T.B. synch will be far easier than the valve adjust was do don't worry, you are on the down hill side of the trip.

Brian

Quote from: lather on July 15, 2011, 06:38:03 PM

OK, cam chain is unbunched and valve cover, sticky coils and PAIR valve re-installed (but blocked off) so now time to move on to the TB sync. I notice that Video Fred Harmon removed the fuel tank and accessed the #2 vacuum plug through the left throttle body hatch. I see no mention of this methodology on the FSM! After extensive flash light aided peering it looks like Fred's way is the only way. Has anyone been able to connect a line to the #2 without removing the fuel tank?

What have I gotten myself into

lather · « **Reply #3 on:** July 16, 2011, 07:13:09 AM »

Quote from: B.D.F. on July 16, 2011, 06:57:54 AM

Yeah but like Rich said, it really helps to have the valve cover off to get to that port without removing the fuel tank. If the valve cover is already back in place you will have to decide if you want to remove it again or pull the tank. Removing the tank is really not hard nor does it take long to do and it is only difficult to handle if it is full or nearly so.

And again, as Rich said, put vacuum tubing on each T. B. port, route them all to the left and be done with it for all time. Cap the lines and either route them to someplace like under the frame support rail or capture the ends in a tie- wrap or similar.

The T.B. synch will be far easier than the valve adjust was do don't worry, you are on the down hill side of the trip.

Brian

I wish

see my next topic...

B.D.F. · « **Reply #4 on:** July 16, 2011, 10:37:40 AM »

Well, technically the throttle body synch. went fine, it is the starting of the bike you are having trouble with....

Brian

Quote from: lather on July 16, 2011, 07:13:09 AM

I wish see my next topic...

lather · « **Reply #5 on:** July 16, 2011, 11:06:15 AM »

Quote from: B.D.F. on July 16, 2011, 10:37:40 AM

Well, technically the throttle body synch. went fine, it is the starting of the bike you are having trouble with....

Brian

I haven't started the sync yet!

VirginiaJim · « **Reply #6 on:** July 16, 2011, 11:25:21 AM »

Oh my....

Shoe · « **Reply #7 on:** July 16, 2011, 05:34:43 PM »

Quote from: lather on July 15, 2011, 06:38:03 PM

OK, cam chain .................
What have I gotten myself into

I did it Fred'd way. And like Fred I had to redo it because access to the screw on the hose clamp was the hardest part. Wait until you have to tighten that hose clamp on the rubber funnel.

stevewfl · « **Reply #8 on:** July 16, 2011, 11:04:51 PM »

How do we know when the throttlebodies need syncing? Mine is at 39,000 miles. Is this one of those deals such as the plugs....book says do it and its a joke?

Mine ran strong in the desert as an ADV bike too. 108 degrees and at speeds of "idling". Maybe mine don't need syncing? This was last week:

It also ran strong at 12,000 feet in the sky. This was up there a week and a half ago:

lather · « **Reply #9 on:** July 16, 2011, 11:22:46 PM »

Mine has a bit of a rough idle. I have had it die on me a few during low speed manouvers, once causing me to drop the bike. If I didn't have any issues I defintely would not try this.

lather · « **Reply #10 on:** July 16, 2011, 11:24:48 PM »

Nice pics. Is that Independence Pass or Trail Ridge Road?

lather · « **Reply #11 on:** July 17, 2011, 06:48:33 AM »

Quote from: Shoe on July 16, 2011, 05:34:43 PM

I did it Fred'd way. And like Fred I had to redo it because access to the screw on the hose clamp was the hardest part. Wait until you have to tighten that hose clamp on the rubber funnel.

Thanks for the heads ups Joseph!

Wild_Bill · « **Reply #12 on:** July 17, 2011, 08:44:22 AM »

I was able to install the hoses from the left side without removing the tank or the valve cover. I used extra long needlenose pliers from harbor freight

Bill

lather · « **Reply #13 on:** July 17, 2011, 11:29:31 AM »

Do the vacuum lines need to be identical length and ID?

B.D.F. · « **Reply #14 on:** July 17, 2011, 11:31:46 AM »

Nope, it does not matter.

Brian

Quote from: lather on July 17, 2011, 11:29:31 AM

Do the vacuum lines need to be identical length and ID?

lather · « **Reply #15 on:** July 17, 2011, 12:30:13 PM »

Great, thanks.

lather · « **Reply #16 on:** July 17, 2011, 01:31:17 PM »

This is not going as smoothly as I had hoped

I hooked up my Motion Pro ProSync syncronization tool to calibrate it, carefully following the instructions. I immediately noticed the adjustment screws would not turn smoothly at all. When I fired up the engine and attemped to calibrate I got these gaps.

After following the instructions for getting rid of the gaps I have many more gaps.

I think this tool is junk. I will see if I can get a better one quickly. Any suggestions? I recall someone else used a Carb Tune.

C1xRider · « **Reply #17 on:** July 17, 2011, 03:42:12 PM »

Quote from: lather on July 17, 2011, 01:31:17 PM

This is not going as smoothly as I had hoped
I hooked up my Motion Pro ProSync syncronization tool to calibrate it, carefully following the instructions. I immediately noticed the adjustment screws would not turn smoothly at all. When I fired up the engine and attemped to calibrate I got these gaps.

After following the instructions for getting rid of the gaps I have many more gaps.

I think this tool is junk. I will see if I can get a better one quickly. Any suggestions? I recall someone else used a Carb Tune.

Yikes!

I couldn't see the pictures at first, but after switching the backslashes to forward slashes in the URLs, I now see what you're talking about.

Did you try swinging it with the bottom at the outside of the arc? No idea how to help here, but maybe/possibly/probably couldn't hurt to try.

Their instructions say to "shake like a thermometer", but I think "shake" is the wrong word. More like flick your wrist...

lather · « **Reply #18 on:** July 17, 2011, 04:22:29 PM »

I'll try the swing technique but I am doubtful.
I went ahead and connected a hose to the #2 TB, it was easy. It was harder to get the boot and clamp back on. Tightening the clamp was no problem. Next I played with a mirror and flasglight. I can get a good look at the adjustment screw but need another hand to operate the 90% screwdriver! I will need to get a skinnier flashlight and tape it in place. Looks like these delays might mess up my end-of-July trip to Colorado. I am not really that bummed because I can't really afford to go anyway. I have already paid for IndyGP tickets and I have a feeling that trip will not be cheap.

C1xRider · « **Reply #19 on:** July 17, 2011, 05:16:58 PM »

They say it's filled with propylene glycol, which should allow the air to slip by with gentle coaxing. Possibly gentle tapping. Anything like shaking would make the problem worse.

My guess is it takes a gentle hand to get rid of the air pockets.

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Author Topic: Throttle body sync (Read 21286 times)