Transmission problem

[Brad Baerwald]

Hey Dan. you have the Clymer manual?   page 301  photo 99a  that's the neutral swicth there (so the switch (it's self)  is NOT "in" the motor   but I still don't know what mechanically activates or deactivates it   So (while you wait for clutch parts to arrive) I would pull that and ohm it out,  also see (IF YOU CAN??) what "state" that switch is in?   my point is first see if the switch even works... then if it does work  then measure what "state the switch is when installed"  also remember the neutral switch  works in conjunction with the  side stand swich!  So if something is wrong with the wires or swicthes the bike could think that you are in (any gear but neutral) and that the kickstand is down (even though it isn't)  and "presto" the engine is (intentionally) "killed" because the bike "thinks you are trying to ride off WITH the kickstand down!  (even though that would be an error in this case.

[MAN OF BLUES]

Dan,
when you replaced the star springs,.did you stagger them 30* so the tabs are offset, or did you stack them? they should be staggered...
also
did you buy the new style nut with the springs?
the dual spring setup requires a different nut than the original, it must be used, as the original system was.spaced to use a single spring....
Murph sells them....

as for the neutral switch...
that is not an issue.
the only issue would be a sticky sidestand switch, or the switch at the clutch lever, both can be cleaned by shooting wd40 in them.
sidestand, stick the red snooter tube up inside the rubber boot, and spray a bunch, and manualy actuate the switch/stand... it should free up

remove the clutch lever switch, and spritz inside it and actuate it also...

both those switches can be temporarilly defeated by shorting the connections at the plugs on either, just for testing purposes.....

[Dan in Grand Rapids]

Thanks for all the replies. I will check out the neutral switch, clutch switch, and sidestand switch.

MOB..I replaced the star springs with the kit from Murph and they are staggered. I followed the directions he sent when I bought them. Now to buy a new clutch. Murph has been getting a lot of business from me lately.

[Brad Baerwald]

So how goes it?    sorry I'm just a little impatient Ha Ha! 

Dan you are probably too busy with life to bother with what I'm about to ask, but... Any chance you could tell the story of what happened at the point you had the stuck thottle (I'm imangining, wide open?) as you were stuck infront of a semi.   Not so much for diagnostics (because you have one of the best on the case (MOB))  But just because I've been trying to imagine what actually happened.  Not only that but I've always thought of the "wet clutch" as nearly indestructible, so I'd love to hear how you got that one to self destruct.   Just curious.   thanks!

[Dan in Grand Rapids]

So how goes it?    sorry I'm just a little impatient Ha Ha! 

Dan you are probably too busy with life to bother with what I'm about to ask, but... Any chance you could tell the story of what happened at the point you had the stuck thottle (I'm imangining, wide open?) as you were stuck infront of a semi.   Not so much for diagnostics (because you have one of the best on the case (MOB))  But just because I've been trying to imagine what actually happened.  Not only that but I've always thought of the "wet clutch" as nearly indestructible, so I'd love to hear how you got that one to self destruct.   Just curious.   thanks!

I have not done much with it except ordered a clutch and new cable bracket.

Here is how this thing happened. There is a peg or something on the outside of the carb that the cable bracket sits on. For some reason this broke on mine a while ago and if you pulled the throttle hard the whole cable bracket assembly would pivot forward and the throttle would stick slightly. I tried to JB weld that piece back on the carb, but the only way I can see fixing it is replacing the carbs. The piece that broke off is part of the carb body, so it can't just be replaced. I fashioned some wire on the throttle bracket  that anchored it to the frame and kept it from rotating forward.

So, last week I was heading to work and decided to pass a semi hauling two dump trailers full of dirt. It was a two lane road and the truck way just starting from a 4 way stop so it was going slow. I was passing and when I was almost passed I realized that the car coming toward me was going way over the speed limit. I pulled the throttle as hard as I could. Then the wires keeping the throttle cable assembly broke and the throttle was stuck on full. I was in 4th gear and the bike was taking off like a rocket. I tried to unstick it, but it would not come. I was now in front of the semi and there was a drainage ditch on the side of the road and I could not pull over. I pulled in the clutch  while trying to unstick the throttle. I then had to let the clutch out and pull in back in when I started going too fast. I went about a half a mile like this until there was a dirt road that I could pull off on. By this time smoke was flowing out of the clutch side of the engine. I shut it off and then got the cables unstuck. The whole bracket on the carbs is destroyed from me trying to unstick it on the road.

These clutches should be indestructible, was they were not set up for the abuse that I gave. I hope that clears things up.

Will pull the carbs this weekend and see what can be done. Also will probably put the clutch in this weekend.

[DC Concours]

Wow. This is the first I have heard of such an issue with the throttle. I am glad you are safe.

When you take the carbs off consider posting a pic for analysis.

[RFH87_Connie]

If you haven't already, put an ad in the "Wanted" section for the appropriate carb body (which number carb if it matters).  Someone's bound to have one for a good price.  Maybe even PM SISF to see if he has one he would part with.  You might consider at least new fuel rail o-rings from Murph at this point too.

[jimmymac]

You might be able to switch two carbs and be ok.

[Dan in Grand Rapids]

I have the clutch replaced and it works the way it should. No more stalling when I let out the clutch.
Now for the carbs. I have one question. Do all years use the same carbs? I am doing some research and I am not sure if there were changes along the way. Thanks for you help.

[Steve in Sunny Fla]

All years use the same carbs.

 I have seen the exact issue you had. there's a post on the #2 carb and it got broken off. the only fix is another set of carbs. steve

[Dan in Grand Rapids]

Steve is helping me out with a new carb. Thanks Steve! Here are some pictures. One of two of the friction plates (4 actually cracked into pieces), and two pictures of the carbs. You can see the piece that is broken off and how I destroyed the connectors for the cables when I was trying to get the throttle unstuck.

[DC Concours]

wow. How did you mangle it like that? You must have used a lot of force.

[Mettler1]

   "OH POOP!!!" or something of that nature.