Keypass dies on trip

[Son of Pappy]

I would think the same thing.  They want to sell bikes but they don't want to do any warranty work then they don't need to be dealers for the product.  A few calls to Kawasaki might solve that problem one way or the other.

Mark?

[Rhino]

I've never had warranty work done on a bike. But have had plenty of warranty work done on cars and trucks. If a dealer ever refused to do warranty work on one of my vehicles. I would take it up with the manufacturer and I would never, ever buy another vehicle from them.

[Conniesaki]

My local shop has been selling Yamaha, Honda, Suzuki, Triumph ... and Kawasaki for a loooong time.

And they just quit selling Kawasaki.

I couldn't get the sales guy to tell me why. All he would say is, "They wanted us to do something we didn't want to do."

He did say they will still work on Kawasakis, just not selling them.

And a few days later when I was there again a brand new bright red ZX14R they had on the floor had been taken away.

[stevewfl]

I agree with you all on how it "should be" and what they are "obligated to do". However, I know stealerships don;t do that, and its not uncommon is all I was saying.

Just sayin', its like the gentleman stated........ "call mark"   

[B.D.F.]

One does not really clean the KiPass activation switch; one simply squirts something down there and hopes for the best.

Kawasaki seems to be pretty good about replacing the spring on bikes out of warrantee but they can be picky about actually seeing the switch stick. If it sticks on an owner but then frees up, sometimes they do not seem to want to deal with the issue.

Besides all of that, the stiffer spring only reduces the chances of the switch sticking, it does not eliminate the problem. Fortunately it is pretty rare on most C-14's and even more rare on the ones with the heavier spring. That said, it does not do much good for the person who is stuck to know that they are in a small group :-)

I make and sell a KiPass activation switch bypass that is guaranteed to work around the stuck switch problem. It basically interrupts and resets the system so you can start the bike. The original switch should still be repaired but at least the bike will not be stranded. There is more info. about it here:     http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=6976.msg82841#msg82841     They can be purchased here:  http://incontrolne.com/incontrol_005.htm

Brian

So other than spraying some plastic safe contact cleaner down the key slot, how does one clean the plunger regularly with out taking it apart?

Will Kawasaki install the new spring if the bike is long out of Warrantee?

Thanks,

[B.D.F.]

Absolutely: that is one of the things that goes along with being a dealer for a product; servicing that product under warranty. If a Kawasaki dealership refuses to service a reasonably current Kawasaki that they sell, then Kawasaki should step in and insist that they do so. Should the dealer still refuse, Kawasaki should pull the dealership away from them.

It does seem like the manufacturers of motorcycles are far weaker regarding overseeing their dealer networks than auto manufacturers are. Motorcycle dealers seem to get away with a lot of things that the factory just should not allow IMO. At least Japanese motorcycle dealers; BMW dealers seem much better regulated but that brand comes with other.... considerations when purchasing.

Brian

I would think the same thing.  They want to sell bikes but they don't want to do any warranty work then they don't need to be dealers for the product.  A few calls to Kawasaki might solve that problem one way or the other.

[clogan]

Before I retired, I worked with a lot of car dealers. The unscrupulous dealers would "invent" additional warranty claims such that their warranty reimbursement made it worth their while to do the work on actual claims. Say you came in for a sticky ignition switch. As they were repairing the switch, they would also "discover" an exhaust leak, or maybe a faulty gizmo dooflotchit. Then they would submit warranty claims for this additional "work" as well.

Things went along merrily until the manufacturer did a warranty audit. You should have seen them scramble then!

Too bad there's not a similar audit program for "extra" customer-pay work that gets discovered to be necessary.

[Coomers]

Brought my 08 in last year out of warranty and the dealer called and got authorization from Kawasaki. The dealer got the parts in (spring and security bolts) but did not want to do the job because it is pretty involved and they don't get reimbursed from Kawasaki enough. I just kept up my routine of WD-40 under that square tab at 9 oclock every few months and told them to forget about it. Sold the bike and got a new 2012 and after several months the new owner forgot about the WD-40 routine, got stuck out on the road and had another dealer do the job for free.

Just so I'm clear, you sprayed the WD-40 under the square tab at the 9 o'clock position and not down the key whole? Or both?

Thanks,

[gPink]

I would not use wd40.

[JoeRau]

I would not use wd40.

Agreed.  I'd stick with cleaning and then teflon based lube.  Cuts back on the dirt attractant issues.

[ZG]

I would not use wd40.

+1...

[whatcom]

To start the bike, you first have to push down the ignition key before you can turn the key.

When you push down on the ignition key, to get things going, a little tab on the left (9oclock of the key and ignition switch) goes down and pushes on a 1/8 th inch square rod (plunger). The plunger goes along side the outside of the  ignition switch and operates a little separate momentary switch attached under the ignition switch assymbly to start the KIPASS and startup electronics.  It is this rod (plunger) that sticks and holds the little switch under the ignition switch on.

If the rod is stuck holding the little switch engaged, the bike does not see the momentary switch being operated and won't start the start-up electronics.

The rod gets dirty and does not slide very well, so cleaning out the dirt and grime is what's needed. I like WD-40 because it is good with the plastic, disolves the grime, the force pushes the contaminets out the bottom and i can get the little red hose under the tab to get to the plunger. I know the WD residue can attract more grime, but it takes a long time and you do get to get rid of the build up that is in there at the time.

[Son of Pappy]

This thread rocks!!!!!!!

[stevewfl]

This thread rocks!!!!!!!

+1

'cuz KiPass so rocks

[VirginiaJim]

Pun intended...

There's some good information in this thread so hopefully the OP will get this fixed.

[maxtog]

I would not use wd40.

+3 or 5 or whatever we are up to.

WD40 is a VERY poor choice for precision lubrication of such devices.  It attracts dirt and can gum up mechanisms.  Far better to use a dry teflon or graphic type lubricant.

[Tremainiac]

Name, brand, label of product recommended?
I got NOT WD 40 so .... What?

[VirginiaJim]

I've used electronic contact cleaner..

[Conrad]

I've used electronic contact cleaner..

If you use contact cleaner be SURE that it says safe for ALL plastics on the label. Not all are.

[JS_racer]

i have used a spray can straw to push in on the switch when cleaning and checking. works great. Most of the time, my key is in the unlocked position, just in case.