Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C10, aka Kawasaki Concours - The Original => The Bike - C10 => Topic started by: Eddie on August 16, 2012, 07:24:35 AM
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Bike has been overheating lately, can't quite figure out why. I just flushed the coolant, which scared me as oil came out. Until I realized I pulled the oil cooler line and not the coolant plug. Phew. I just sort of felt around for a bolt.
Anyway, the fan does not seem to be kicking it, I will check the connector and switch shortly.
Would a busted thermostat cause this issue?
It's not the water pump as it's not leaking. Or could it still be the pump even without a leak?
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While a defective T-Stat can cause the bike to overheat it has absolutely nothing to do with the fan switch or the temp sending unit. First off check the fan fuse it is located under the left side cover and is the exposed white (or is it black?) fuse holder just above the J-Box. 2nd check that the fan can actually run by jumping (shorting across the fan temp switch on the left side of the rad. core. When you flushed the coolant did you purge (burp) the air out of the cooling system by cracking the bleeder just above the T-Stat? If you have an air pocket in the T-Stat housing the stat will not open if in air it must be submerged in coolant or water. How old is the Rad Cap? Just because it looks good does not mean that it is sealing properly at pressure. When you flushed you did use a 50/50 mix? Undiluted coolant/antifreeze can and will cause overheating.
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Check all the things T Cro mentioned, but also make sure you bleed the cooling system at the water pump.
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Anyway, the fan does not seem to be kicking it, I will check the connector and switch shortly.
99% sure this is your problem. It should be coming on if you are saying the bike is overheating with the fan not running. As T-Cro said, jump the connector at the switch, and the fan should run. If it doesn't, it is either the fuse (stand alone - mounted just above the J-box with a white cover) or the switch (of course it could even be a chaffed wire).
The cooling fan switch is inexpensive if you go to an autoparts store and tell them you need one for a 1991 Honda Civic DX. The thermostat is from a 1983 Honda Accord (I'd recommend a 195 degree one, but stock is around 185? - your choice). A radiator cap can be obtained from a 1978 Ford Fiesta. This was all obtained from the parts conversion table. If you need the o-rings for the thermostat (and you will if you open it) order the kit from Murph for $12.50. I've used the switch and thermo on the list with no problems. Haven't needed the cap yet. Make sure the thermo has the little hole in it to burp, or drill a 1/16" one yourself.
O-rings - http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=428 (http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=428)
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I had a similar problem on my 86 Connie. Even though the fan switch was operating it was turning on too late or when the temperature was too high. Ordered a new switch from Murphs and all it well again or at least normal.
http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1_92&products_id=320 (http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1_92&products_id=320)
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I had a similar problem on my 86 Connie. Even though the fan switch was operating it was turning on too late or when the temperature was too high. Ordered a new switch from Murphs and all it well again or at least normal.
Perfect point! I forgot to say this was exactly what mine was doing. It would pretty much almost peg the needle, then the fan would come on. Two days later, the fan would not come on. If I could get moving, the temp would drop so I didn't loose any coolant.
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You can buy a car cooling fan switch for about $25 at the auto store. The actuation temp is a little lower and so is the deactivate temp. There is a link on here somewhere with part numbers.
I just found my notes. AutoZone has a Wells SW504 $23, Napa has Echlin $50, O'reilly has one for $23 but I can't remember which brand. Borg Warner TFS500. I have more but don't know who carries each one. Of course, you'll want to compare them before putting it in. Plug the hole in radiator with a small round object to give you a minute to compare the units.
I've used OEM and car type and can't say that one lasts longer than the other.
The OEM unit is about $50 and in my case is a few mm shorter but the car version is working for me.
No need to drain coolant to install. Just have the unit ready so when you unscrew on your radiator you can put the new one in right away.
I've replaced a few units in the 22 years I've had my bike.
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May be late, but here's the generic parts cross list.
http://www.randols.net/Connie/#CommonParts (http://www.randols.net/Connie/#CommonParts)
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May be late, but here's the generic parts cross list.
http://www.randols.net/Connie/#CommonParts (http://www.randols.net/Connie/#CommonParts)
Me thinks that old Eddie must work offshore or something as he has not been back since he posted on the 16th....