Author Topic: Lowering Front End...how to get at lower fork bolts  (Read 3471 times)

Offline MAXPWR

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 33
  • Country: us
Lowering Front End...how to get at lower fork bolts
« on: October 19, 2016, 06:30:39 PM »
I would like to lower front end (also plan on lowering rear). Obviously I can get at allen bolts in triple tree but am wondering how to access the pinch bolts that are half way down on the forks. Is there a certain order in which to remove the front body panels? I'm ready to jump into it and just want to do it right. I do not yet have a service manual.

Offline MAN OF BLUES

  • Arena
  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 2898
  • Country: 00
  • WHISKEY.Tango.Foxtrot.
Re: Lowering Front End...how to get at lower fork bolts
« Reply #1 on: October 19, 2016, 07:53:34 PM »
Dig in and start pulling plastic, segregate the screws, and keep track of them, not rocket science.

46 YEARS OF KAW.....  47 years of DEVO..

Offline maxtog

  • Elite Member
  • ******
  • Posts: 8869
  • Country: us
  • 2011 Silver
Re: Lowering Front End...how to get at lower fork bolts
« Reply #2 on: October 19, 2016, 09:10:56 PM »
It has been a while since I did it, so I can't remember HOW I did it (had help from a friend).  But I do remember it was rather simple lowering the front.  We did not disassemble any plastics or body parts.  You will have to add handlebar risers.

Keep in mind it is not a great idea to lower the front or back without also lowering the other side the same amount.  Also, I would not advise more than 1" or you risk big problems from things colliding.

http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=260
Shoodaben (was Guhl) Mountain Runner ECU flash, Canyon Cages front/rear, Helibars risers, Phil's wedges, Grip Puppies, Sargent World seat-low & heated & pod, Muzzy lowering links, Soupy's stand, Nautilus air horn, Admore lightbar, Ronnie's highway pegs, front running lights, all LED, helmet locks, RAM Xgrip, Sena SMH10, Throttle Tamer, MRA X-Creen, BearingUp Shifter, PR4-GT, Scorpion EXO-T1200,etc

Offline MAXPWR

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 33
  • Country: us
Re: Lowering Front End...how to get at lower fork bolts
« Reply #3 on: October 20, 2016, 04:40:03 PM »
Thank you.

Offline angelo

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 107
  • Country: us
    • Some Ride Reports
Re: Lowering Front End...how to get at lower fork bolts
« Reply #4 on: October 24, 2016, 07:33:01 PM »
Well, since you've answered the OPs question, riddle me this.  Anyone lower the forks perhaps a cm or so to try to increase the steering performance in twisties?  I certainly love the 55 rear tire difference and would like to hear more about changing the front geometry of the bike nominally.  Anyone try?

Offline angelo

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 107
  • Country: us
    • Some Ride Reports
Re: Lowering Front End...how to get at lower fork bolts
« Reply #5 on: October 24, 2016, 07:36:11 PM »
To clarify, I mean raising the forks, thus lowering the bike relatively on them to sharpen the steering geometry.  Not raising the forks but lowering the bike along them a cm or half inch.

Offline maxtog

  • Elite Member
  • ******
  • Posts: 8869
  • Country: us
  • 2011 Silver
Re: Lowering Front End...how to get at lower fork bolts
« Reply #6 on: October 24, 2016, 08:32:24 PM »
My objective was to lower the seat as much as possible, without changing the attitude/handling.  So I can't comment as to what affect lowering just the front (or rear) would have, other than it will change the handling.  I would warn that it can produce negative consequences, perhaps even dangerous ones.

http://www.sportrider.com/tech/lowering-your-bike-safely-long-and-short-it

"Any time you lower either end of a motorcycle, you must lower the opposite end an identical amount. Unless you want to change the bike's steering characteristics (which should only be done if you have a comprehensive grasp of motorcycle steering geometry), you must maintain the bike's chassis attitude to avoid handling problems. Changing the front or rear ride heights by as little as 5mm can have a dramatic effect on how a bike handles in the corners"
Shoodaben (was Guhl) Mountain Runner ECU flash, Canyon Cages front/rear, Helibars risers, Phil's wedges, Grip Puppies, Sargent World seat-low & heated & pod, Muzzy lowering links, Soupy's stand, Nautilus air horn, Admore lightbar, Ronnie's highway pegs, front running lights, all LED, helmet locks, RAM Xgrip, Sena SMH10, Throttle Tamer, MRA X-Creen, BearingUp Shifter, PR4-GT, Scorpion EXO-T1200,etc

Offline angelo

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 107
  • Country: us
    • Some Ride Reports
Re: Lowering Front End...how to get at lower fork bolts
« Reply #7 on: October 25, 2016, 07:43:39 AM »
Exactly my point.   Has one tried on the Connie or is she just too big a girl to make any positive difference?  Just wondering. 

I guess we could say the same is achieved by cranking up the rear end with preload but that also has an impact on how the rear suspension responds and I have the sag set pretty well and like it. 

Offline lather

  • Arena
  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1591
  • Country: us
  • And I think my spaceship knows which way to go...
    • Louisiana Chapter MSTA
Re: Lowering Front End...how to get at lower fork bolts
« Reply #8 on: October 25, 2016, 08:53:24 AM »
Sorry to be late on this. For OP there is a plastic shield that blocks easy access to lower fork clamp bolts. You can remove it easy enough but I just bent it out of the way, it is flexible and springs back in place when your done. No need to remove any other plastic except the fender as I do suggest you remove the wheel to adjust the fork height. With OEM bars (no risers) you can only slide the forks up about 1/4 " before you hit the handle bars. I bought and installed 5/8" risers from Projekd (sp?) which allowed me to raise the forks about .9". It did make the turn in a little better but I don't notice a huge difference.   
Nothing worse than having your balls go missing.

Offline tthompsr

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 98
  • Country: us
  • 2009 Black Concours
Re: Lowering Front End...how to get at lower fork bolts
« Reply #9 on: October 26, 2016, 06:19:59 AM »
Well, since you've answered the OPs question, riddle me this.  Anyone lower the forks perhaps a cm or so to try to increase the steering performance in twisties?  I certainly love the 55 rear tire difference and would like to hear more about changing the front geometry of the bike nominally.  Anyone try?
I did by accident, I raised my forks to lower the bike for my short inseam and noticed right away that it changed the way she handled! then started running a 55 series rear tire, I like the way she handles now! Only issue is at slow speeds she feels and acts even more top heavy!

Offline maxtog

  • Elite Member
  • ******
  • Posts: 8869
  • Country: us
  • 2011 Silver
Re: Lowering Front End...how to get at lower fork bolts
« Reply #10 on: October 26, 2016, 04:17:03 PM »
I did by accident, I raised my forks to lower the bike for my short inseam

But by lowering only the front, you gain only half the effectiveness of the lowering (1" at the front is only 1/2" in the middle, for example).

Quote
and noticed right away that it changed the way she handled! then started running a 55 series rear tire, I like the way she handles now! Only issue is at slow speeds she feels and acts even more top heavy!

It can also cause very unstable behavior at high speed... one of the other warnings I have read about.
Shoodaben (was Guhl) Mountain Runner ECU flash, Canyon Cages front/rear, Helibars risers, Phil's wedges, Grip Puppies, Sargent World seat-low & heated & pod, Muzzy lowering links, Soupy's stand, Nautilus air horn, Admore lightbar, Ronnie's highway pegs, front running lights, all LED, helmet locks, RAM Xgrip, Sena SMH10, Throttle Tamer, MRA X-Creen, BearingUp Shifter, PR4-GT, Scorpion EXO-T1200,etc