Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: Fixxer on August 21, 2014, 09:39:22 AM
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My ignition is stuck on the FSS position.
I can remove the stove key and tried using the fob key, but I couldn't get it to move. It seems locked in place.
When I press downwards, I get no response from the display.
This happened this morning as I was leaving for work.
Any ideas on how to fix this? I couldn't start the bike at all.
I did a search for other relevant topics, and a common solution was to examine and clean the battery connections.
Is there anything else I could try? Is this even a electrical/KIPASS issue?
Any ideas welcomed. Thanks!
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Sounds like you need a KROCK or B.D.F's fix.
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Where are you carrying your fob (Easy Boys!)?
I would suggest putting the active fob on the bike's saddle and again try pressing down the key. If that does not work, use the instructions in the owner's manual on how to use a fob with a dead battery.
If none of that works, you may have the dreaded 'stuck activation switch' problem. But try the above mentioned things first- let's go for the easiest solutions and work our way up to a hammer.
Brian
My ignition is stuck on the FSS position.
I can remove the stove key and tried using the fob key, but I couldn't get it to move. It seems locked in place.
When I press downwards, I get no response from the display.
This happened this morning as I was leaving for work.
Any ideas on how to fix this? I couldn't start the bike at all.
I did a search for other relevant topics, and a common solution was to examine and clean the battery connections.
Is there anything else I could try? Is this even a electrical/KIPASS issue?
Any ideas welcomed. Thanks!
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Brian,
I carry my fob in my jeans pocket, and it's been like that since day one. I also recently changed the battery (within the month) in my fob. No issues whatsoever until today.
Allow me to elaborate a little. I got on the bike this morning and went through my usual starting routine. Push down, display lights up, flick start switch to run, then nothing. Display went dark. I don't know how the key wound up in the fss position, but it did.
Now, I cannot get it to move from that position. I tried removing the stove key and used the fob key with no luck. The ignition is locked in the fss position. I tried placing the fob near the key. Nothing. I had to push the bike back into the garage and drove to work. <sigh>
I'll try your suggestions when I get home from work. Thank you very much for your help and suggestions. You too, Rhino.
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Remove battery in bike clean ;)
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Given this information, your problem is nothing to do with any part of KiPass but almost certainly a loose battery connection. We see this issue quite often on this bike; I do not know why that is but it is common.
Remove the battery covers on the right side of the bike, remove the battery and check both battery terminals to make sure they are clean and tight- odds are, one is not tight and that is what caused your problem. While you are there, also check the ground terminal where it connects from the batter negative terminal to the frame, just in front of the battery box on the frame.
This should eliminate the problem. A sure sign that the above was your problem is that the clock will have reset because the power from the battery was interrupted.
Brian
Brian,
I carry my fob in my jeans pocket, and it's been like that since day one. I also recently changed the battery (within the month) in my fob. No issues whatsoever until today.
Allow me to elaborate a little. I got on the bike this morning and went through my usual starting routine. Push down, display lights up, flick start switch to run, then nothing. Display went dark. I don't know how the key wound up in the fss position, but it did.
Now, I cannot get it to move from that position. I tried removing the stove key and used the fob key with no luck. The ignition is locked in the fss position. I tried placing the fob near the key. Nothing. I had to push the bike back into the garage and drove to work. <sigh>
I'll try your suggestions when I get home from work. Thank you very much for your help and suggestions. You too, Rhino.
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Roger that. I'll check the battery and connections today.
This was also mentioned in several posts when I did a search earlier. I hope it's something as simple as that.
I'll post back to report my findings.
Thanks guys!
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Great- good luck with it.
I would not worry about it, as I said it is a common situation with this bike and almost certainly your problem. The symptoms match perfectly with what we so often see on this bike. And not only is it a free fix (other than your labor of course) but it seems to be a permanent fix; once snugged up, the terminals seem to stay tight.
Brian
Roger that. I'll check the battery and connections today.
This was also mentioned in several posts when I did a search earlier. I hope it's something as simple as that.
I'll post back to report my findings.
Thanks guys!
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If none of that works, you may have the dreaded 'stuck activation switch' problem. But try the above mentioned things first- let's go for the easiest solutions and work our way up to a hammer.
Brian
Have hammer. Let me know when you need me. :salute:
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I don't have a hammer but I do have a rock ;)
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Absolutely primitive....sigh.
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Better save it Jim- I understand more vehicles will soon include KiPass (or HoPass, or SuzPass, etc.).
Take a look at this:
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f82/BDF08012008/KiPassextendedtoallvehicles.jpg) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/BDF08012008/media/KiPassextendedtoallvehicles.jpg.html)
According to Kirby (I do not read Japanese, and I am not sure he does either) this article is blaming the plane crash in the photo on the LACK of KiPass and is urging the Prime Minister and the entire gov't of Japan to pass legislation requiring it on all new vehicles built.
Like I said, I don't read the language but that's what the little fella' tells me....
Brian
Have hammer. Let me know when you need me. :salute:
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Brian and Cuda were spot on!
Checked the battery and connections after I got home and found that both were loose. I removed the battery, cleaned up the connections and reinstalled. I also checked and cleaned the ground connection.
Hit the key, and it unlocked! Rode to work, and everything is back to normal.
***THANK YOU*** to Brian, Cuda, and everyone who helped. You guys saved me time and possibly a unwanted trip to the dealer.
Hopefully I can help someone here the way you guys helped me. Mahalo!
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Great- glad it was that easy.
We have seen this quite a lot on the C-14, and given the symptoms it was an easy and almost certain diagnosis.
Now go ride the pants off that bike- you are in a beautiful area for it!
Brian
Brian and Cuda were spot on!
Checked the battery and connections after I got home and found that both were loose. I removed the battery, cleaned up the connections and reinstalled. I also checked and cleaned the ground connection.
Hit the key, and it unlocked! Rode to work, and everything is back to normal.
***THANK YOU*** to Brian, Cuda, and everyone who helped. You guys saved me time and possibly a unwanted trip to the dealer.
Hopefully I can help someone here the way you guys helped me. Mahalo!
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Great- glad it was that easy.
We have seen this quite a lot on the C-14, and given the symptoms it was an easy and almost certain diagnosis.
Now go ride the pants off that bike- you are in a beautiful area for it!
Brian
Too bad the Hawaii state speed limit is 60 mph. :-\
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And all the straight roads curve to the left or right to avoid the water :-) Still, the weather there is fantastic and that has got to make it easy to plan a bike ride / rally four months in the future without having to wonder 'I hope I can ride that day'.
Brian
Too bad the Hawaii state speed limit is 60 mph. :-\
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And all the straight roads curve to the left or right to avoid the water :-) Still, the weather there is fantastic and that has got to make it easy to plan a bike ride / rally four months in the future without having to wonder 'I hope I can ride that day'.
Brian
+1 I've rented bikes on Kauai and Maui. Fantastic to just cruise around and enjoy the scenery and weather. But you definitely can't be in a hurry. ;)
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Getting fuel last night my gas tank lock was sticking , was not rotating back , sprayed some Boeshield T-9 all is well .
www.boeshield.com (http://www.boeshield.com)
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Getting fuel last night my gas tank lock was sticking , was not rotating back , sprayed some Boeshield T-9 all is well .
www.boeshield.com (http://www.boeshield.com)
"The formulation, based on a unique combination of solvents and waxes"
I wouldn't use that in any of MY locks (wax). But the problem with the gas tank lock is pretty common on most (all?) Kawasakis. I just spray some graphite in the lock and on the latches about once or twice a year.
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Checked the battery and connections after I got home and found that both were loose. I removed the battery, cleaned up the connections and reinstalled. I also checked and cleaned the ground connection.
Hit the key, and it unlocked! Rode to work, and everything is back to normal.
Just one question- Do you use a baterry tender?
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Not sure who you are asking but in my case, no. I ride all year and the bike rarely sits for very long although it did last winter 'cause the snow in the driveway would not clear.
Brian
Checked the battery and connections after I got home and found that both were loose. I removed the battery, cleaned up the connections and reinstalled. I also checked and cleaned the ground connection.
Hit the key, and it unlocked! Rode to work, and everything is back to normal.
Just one question- Do you use a baterry tender?
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Not sure who you are asking but in my case, no. I ride all year and the bike rarely sits for very long although it did last winter 'cause the snow in the driveway would not clear.
Brian
+1 Then I moved to TX and now it gets ridden every day. No tender needed.
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Hey Max
"Most automotive locks are hardened steel wafers sliding in a hardened steel keyway. They are lubed with waterproof grease. This is unlike many padlocks and home locks, which have ungreased brass parts sliding against steel. These can be usefully lubricated with graphite.
Putting graphite in a greased lock will gum it up. A solvent based spray will redistribute the existing grease, so almost any type will work. An alcohol based lock deicer has the least chance of depositing an incompatible lubricant."
Boeshield T-9 does a good job of preventing rust without gumming up the mechanical parts. Graphite will clog & jam the lock mechanism over time and doesn't provide rust protection.
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Putting graphite in a greased lock will gum it up. A solvent based spray will redistribute the existing grease, so almost any type will work. An alcohol based lock deicer has the least chance of depositing an incompatible lubricant." Boeshield T-9 does a good job of preventing rust without gumming up the mechanical parts. Graphite will clog & jam the lock mechanism over time and doesn't provide rust protection.
Hmm, now I don't know what to believe anymore!!!! My world is shattering!!!
I do know that what appears to be the major problem with the gas tank lid is are the latches (below the lid). They seem to form a white corrosion over time, making it harder and harder for the mechanism to move... which I guess is technically a type of rust, although it is not ferrous oxide. Not sure what that material is.
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Not sure who you are asking but in my case, no. I ride all year and the bike rarely sits for very long although it did last winter 'cause the snow in the driveway would not clear.
Brian
Actually Brian- i was asking the thread originator- Fixxer. As more people use battery tenders, they do fewer inspections on the battery connections. The battery tender may be a good idea, but how many threads have we seen from owners with poor grounds/connections? In the old days when we pulled our batteries each fall, and installed them in the spring, this issue wasn't as prevalent as it is today. Just my $.02, I also forget that not everyone is bogged down in snow during the winter. chrs- mat
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Well, that certainly sounds logical. ??
What strikes me as odd about these bikes is that the problem is so common yet once they are tightened (and I mean merely snugged up, not tightened by a gorilla) they stay that way. Strange behavior IMO. But it works out for us owners because it is not something we seem to need to attend to on any regular basis.
Brian
Actually Brian- i was asking the thread originator- Fixxer. As more people use battery tenders, they do fewer inspections on the battery connections. The battery tender may be a good idea, but how many threads have we seen from owners with poor grounds/connections? In the old days when we pulled our batteries each fall, and installed them in the spring, this issue wasn't as prevalent as it is today. Just my $.02, I also forget that not everyone is bogged down in snow during the winter. chrs- mat
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Better save it Jim- I understand more vehicles will soon include KiPass (or HoPass, or SuzPass, etc.).
Take a look at this:
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f82/BDF08012008/KiPassextendedtoallvehicles.jpg) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/BDF08012008/media/KiPassextendedtoallvehicles.jpg.html)
According to Kirby (I do not read Japanese, and I am not sure he does either) this article is blaming the plane crash in the photo on the LACK of KiPass and is urging the Prime Minister and the entire gov't of Japan to pass legislation requiring it on all new vehicles built.
Like I said, I don't read the language but that's what the little fella' tells me....
Brian
Umm. You have the paper turned sideways. That is why you couldn't read it. ;)
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I've never used a battery tender on this bike. As far as the battery connections staying tight once they are tightened..on my bike with the stock battery...they wouldn't stay tight. I re-tightened them at every oil change.
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Now that right there is funny. :-) And I think you are right- told you I cannot read Japanese. Now I am starting to wonder if Kirby can read it either...
Brian
Umm. You have the paper turned sideways. That is why you couldn't read it. ;)
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Wow, I think this is the first time I've heard of that happening Jim.
Brian
I've never used a battery tender on this bike. As far as the battery connections staying tight once they are tightened..on my bike with the stock battery...they wouldn't stay tight. I re-tightened them at every oil change.
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Checked the battery and connections after I got home and found that both were loose. I removed the battery, cleaned up the connections and reinstalled. I also checked and cleaned the ground connection.
Hit the key, and it unlocked! Rode to work, and everything is back to normal.
Just one question- Do you use a baterry tender?
Aspire,
I don't use a tender. Like Brian, I use my bike to commute to work every day.
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I've never used a battery tender on this bike. As far as the battery connections staying tight once they are tightened..on my bike with the stock battery...they wouldn't stay tight. I re-tightened them at every oil change.
I think I'll be following this route as well.