Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C10, aka Kawasaki Concours - The Original => The Bike - C10 => Topic started by: charlie gary on June 26, 2011, 07:14:46 PM
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I've done some searching and come up with nothing, so now I'll ask the world if anybody has wired a C-10 for trailer lights. I'm sure I could figure it out, but if some else has already done the leg work...............
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I think that you end up needing one of them wiring devises that converts from 4 wire tail lights back to 3 wire.
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I think that you end up needing one of them wiring devises that converts from 4 wire tail lights back to 3 wire.
T Cro, you just exceeded my electrical envelope of knowledge. :o Wasn't very hard, was it? ::) Tell me more about this magic device and what kind of smoke it might contain.
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http://www.etrailer.com/question-13249.html (http://www.etrailer.com/question-13249.html)
Check out this website, should tell you all you want to know and more!
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Most trailers are still wired the same today as they were 100 years ago with the turn and brake light coming from the same filament; turn is half bright and brake is at full bright; the running are each on a separate filament hence a 3-wire system. Cars started using a separate bulb for running lights, brake lights, and turn signals long ago and this required that you use an adapter box between the trailer and car to take a 4 wire system back down to a 3 wire system. You can find this box at any auto parts store that sells trailer wiring gizmo's.
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I think you mean a 5-wire to a 4-wire magic device. Wal-mart has then for less than $20.
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Hey Charlie,
I'm wired for sound, uh, I mean a trailer.
The tailight convertor is needed to take the seperate turnsignals and brakelight into the combined brakelight/turnsignal that is on most trailers. Wally world, auto parts places usually have them for 12-20 bucks.
I tapped into the bike harness between the tool tray and seat latch. Easy peasy, most convertors are even labeled as to what goes where.
Ping me direct if you need assistance.
victorsalisbury AT gmail DOT com
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I think you mean a 5-wire to a 4-wire magic device. Wal-mart has then for less than $20.
At 6:30 in the morning who says that I can even see clearly much less count; counting the ground wire yes a 5 to 4 would be about right! ;)
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I mentioned that because that is how they label them on the packaging IIMC. I just had to get one for my new/used van whne I put a hitch on it.
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To me, the best way to do it is to use a powered converter
http://tinyurl.com/3mbjl3z (http://tinyurl.com/3mbjl3z)
This way you don't hafta worry about changing the flashers, or extra drain on the Jbox and too much current through some wiring and switches that are only barely adequate for the stock lighting.
I've had mine for about 4 years now, works well, no flasher issues, very compact, and keeps the bike system mostly isolated from the trailer lights. It works the same as a regular converter, just an extra wire to hook up(switched power source).
Have fun!
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Expensive. But very nice! Good protection the j-box too.
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Expensive. But very nice! Good protection the j-box too.
My thinking is, it's cheaper to do it the right way first.
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That's a lot of really good answers. Thanks, everybody. The powered converter sounds like a good idea. Would my trailer lights need diodes to prevent backfeeding to the bike wiring?
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That's a lot of really good answers. Thanks, everybody. The powered converter sounds like a good idea. Would my trailer lights need diodes to prevent backfeeding to the bike wiring?
No. The powered converter is also an isolator. Good kit.
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My thinking is, it's cheaper to do it the right way first.
The shortest route to Grandma's house is not not take any short cuts.
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The shortest route to Grandma's house is not not take any short cuts.
In the case of wiring, don't take any 'short curcuits' either. ;D
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I bought an adapter at the local autozone similar to this http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Reese-Tail-light-converter-with-60-in-wire-and-4-way-connector/_/N-262o?counter=2&itemIdentifier=182754_0_0_ (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Reese-Tail-light-converter-with-60-in-wire-and-4-way-connector/_/N-262o?counter=2&itemIdentifier=182754_0_0_)
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I bought an adapter at the local autozone similar to this http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Reese-Tail-light-converter-with-60-in-wire-and-4-way-connector/_/N-262o?counter=2&itemIdentifier=182754_0_0_ (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Reese-Tail-light-converter-with-60-in-wire-and-4-way-connector/_/N-262o?counter=2&itemIdentifier=182754_0_0_)
Had you bought the power module, you would not have to deal with replacing both flashers and the extra load on your fragile J box.
Hope it works out for you.
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Had you bought the power module, you would not have to deal with replacing both flashers and the extra load on your fragile J box.
Hope it works out for you.
Just went and looked. The unit I have is made by Hoppy. I ride daily and the trailer is almost always hooked up. It has been working fine for about a year. I am running all led's on the trailer. The only bulbs on the bike that I haven't switched to led are the headlight, the front turn/running lights, the rear turn signals (Electrical Connections conversion kit installed) and the license plate light.
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Just went and looked. The unit I have is made by Hoppy. I ride daily and the trailer is almost always hooked up. It has been working fine for about a year. I am running all led's on the trailer. The only bulbs on the bike that I haven't switched to led are the headlight, the front turn/running lights, the rear turn signals (Electrical Connections conversion kit installed) and the license plate light.
Oops! My bad. Didn't even think of the LED angle.