Petcock question

[WTexCliff]

Hello, I have a question about the Petcock on my 2004 that I can not seem to find any reference to in the forum.  I was replacing a fuel hose because the one I had started kinking and cutting off the fuel.  Once I had it installed, I switched the petcock to prime to see if there were any leaks.  (I have overflow tubes.)  I noticed a couple of drops on the engine about one third from the left side.  After checking to see if the connections were tight, I turned it to prime again with the vacuum hose disconnected at the petcock.  I found gas dripping out of the vacuum line connection on the petcock.  I am not very experienced with this but this seems wrong.  Do I have a defective petcock or am I missing something here.

Thank you

[redzgrider]

Sorry buddy, but that's a problem. There is a diaphram ported to the intake, that pulls a shaft with an o-ring. The o-ring pulls from a seat, and fuel flows. If there is fuel coming out of the vacuum port, then the diaphram is leaking. At the very least, you'll be runnning a tad rich...

[WTexCliff]

Thanks for responding.  Now that I know that there is a problem I should probably go to Murph's for a new petcock.

[JDM]

If you have overflow tubes why not just get Murphy's manual conversion kit for the petcock and eliminate the vacuum connection altogether.

[T Cro ®]

If you have overflow tubes why not just get Murphy's manual conversion kit for the petcock and eliminate the vacuum connection altogether.

Murph's Manual Conversion Kit is not going to cure a leaking petcock thus if the cock is leaking fuel you will need either (A) Rebuild Kit or (B) Replacement Petcock as well as the Conversion Kit if so desired. If going manual was the intent I would rather invest in a Pingle Petcock over another OE unit; better flow with a more positive shut off design.

[WTexCliff]

I ordered a new petcock from Murph's but I doubt I will stay with it long.  I considered the leak through the vacuum port on the petcock and the fact that the port enters on the engine side of the carburetor.  Not knowing how much gas had dripped in and determined to not be the first person to have overflow tubes and hydrolock, I pulled the plugs and turned the engine over.  I am glad I did, although I was not ready for the face full of gas that came out of the number 2 cylinder.  I guess I will give it a while to let the rest evaporate.

Seriously, I am thinking I would rather trust myself to turn the gas off more than a small rubber diaphragm.

[Vic Salisbury]

Murph has that new manual conversion

http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1_94&products_id=483

and this conversion disables the diaphram side of the petcock and the petcock is completely manual, Off-On-Reserve
 It includes a new lever, back plate, all the sealing orings. A very nice set-up, works and looks great! 

[T Cro ®]

Murph has that new manual conversion

http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1_94&products_id=483

and this conversion disables the diaphram side of the petcock and the petcock is completely manual, Off-On-Reserve
 It includes a new lever, back plate, all the sealing orings. A very nice set-up, works and looks great!

Yes that is indeed a very nice set-up... I wonder what happened to the Bergman unit that he used to sell? This one may indeed address a leaky cock as well as converting to full manual.

[WTexCliff]

Thanks for everyone’s comments.  I will probably end up getting a pingle petcock in the coming month or two.  Based on the directions in the COG Tech pages, it seems the most challenging part is carefully enlarging the opening in the gas tank slightly.  The conversion kit from Murph’s looks good and I am a little squeamish about assembling my own.  I like the idea of just plugging in the pingle and having it work.

Thanks

[enim57]

Mine started leaking again for the second time so I converted it to manual by my own methods, very simple and can be converted back to original. It still has on/reserve/off positions. The rubber boot to block off the vacuum port on the carburetor is part number 92068-006.

Back in the "good old days" they were all manual and I didn't have any leaking or hear of hydrolocked engines. My other bike has a manual fuel tap and I haven't forgotten to turn it off, I guess old habits die hard.

Regards, Russell

[jim snyder]

Thanks for everyone’s comments.  I will probably end up getting a pingle petcock in the coming month or two.  Based on the directions in the COG Tech pages, it seems the most challenging part is carefully enlarging the opening in the gas tank slightly.  The conversion kit from Murph’s looks good and I am a little squeamish about assembling my own.  I like the idea of just plugging in the pingle and having it work.

Thanks

Hey WTex,
  Don't hesitate to do the Pingel install. I have been running the Pingel fuel valve
on my Connie for 3 years, and ran them on my dragbikes for 20 years. They are
quality units that will last longer than your bike. You can look at my webshots page titled "Pingel install" to see how much needs to be filed out.

[Nosmo]

Pingel.  Mine is a different P/N than Pingel recommends for the Connie, I just had to be dfferent.  Get the one they recommend, and you'll be happy happy happy.

And overflow tubes.

 

[JDM]

Thanks for everyone’s comments.  I will probably end up getting a pingle petcock in the coming month or two.  Based on the directions in the COG Tech pages, it seems the most challenging part is carefully enlarging the opening in the gas tank slightly.  The conversion kit from Murph’s looks good and I am a little squeamish about assembling my own.  I like the idea of just plugging in the pingle and having it work.

Thanks

I am sure you will not have any problems, and you will save your self a lot of money with the Murphy kit, and it comes complete and ready to install.  If you mess up on enlarging the hole in the gas tank you are SOL.  The tank is very light gauge materiel and to be safe you should do the enlarging by hand "no sparks".  HTH JD     

[RedEX]

I'll second the Murph's replacement petcock.  Easy installation, no problems, works great.  I was really worried about any hydrolock problems, since when I bought the bike, the original petcock had been left in the prime position.  I've also had problems with the EX500, had to rebuild the petcock on that one after I noticed the oil level rising in the sight window.  So, call me superstitious, but now I always turn the fuel off when I turn the bike off.   Well worth the peace of mind. 

[WTexCliff]

I finally got the pingle in and installed.  Everything seems to be working great.  I even got up the ambition to install Snarf's block off plates.  That only took about ten to fifteen minutes.

Thanks everyone

[Summit670]

Are either of these, Murphs or Pingle, rebuildable?

[GeeBeav]

Are either of these, Murphs or Pingle, rebuildable?

Pingel has rebuild kit, with enough stuff for 3 valves, for $50-60.
Pingel will rebuild it for you for $15.
I've had mine well over 10 yrs, never had a problem.

[Daytona_Mike]

Back in the "good old days" they were all manual and I didn't have any leaking or hear of hydrolocked engines. My other bike has a manual fuel tap and I haven't forgotten to turn it off, I guess old habits die hard.

Regards, Russell

Yes, they mostly all leaked back then ( I  carried a small rubber mallet just to wack the carbs) but then again  ALL bikes  had overflow tubes  and they did not have  ethanol back then ..  Also the problem with manual petcocks is and never has been turning them off. The turning off part is fine.
 The problem is turning them ON when the engine is not running and not turning them off the exact second the engine is shut off. You cannot ever be as accurate or as fast as an auto petcock there fore your chances of hurting your engine is greater because it only takes a few seconds of FULL  FUEL FLOW to hydro lock the  engine and a manual petcock is always at full flow when turned on.
Automatic petcocks when they fail (if they fail) only ever dribble a small  amount  of fuel  so it takes  a much longer time typically all night to fill a cylinder. Proper maintenance or periodic replacement means the auto petcock will not leak and  auto petcocks do not flow any fuel  when the engine is not turning. Your manual pet cock cannot do that, they flow full out when the engine is not running when you turn it on (and most people turn it on before starting the engine). It only  takes 3 seconds.
Overflow tubes are the only true  protection from manual and defective auto  petcocks (with leaky float valves). Floats  valves do  leak occasionally, they always will, they always have. Most times you would not  even be aware unless you have  overflow tubes. It just shows up as poor fuel economy.

[GeeBeav]

Overflow tubes are the only true  protection

 

Bored at work again?