Can someone please detail the 2 minute mod?

[PlaynInPeoria]

I understand there was a forum crash at some point, so the search produces limited results.  I am wondering

a) What is it and how to do I do it?
b) what are the effects on mileage?

I am not terribly happy with my last tank's mileage, I got 36. I do tend to flog it, my other bike is an FZ1 with nearly double the power to weight ratio.  I short shift, rarely rev it above 5k, and I also do something weird I have done since I had a Bandit 1200, which had a lot of power also.  I generally take off in 1st rather rapidly, get it to about 4k, then shift to 3rd and go to WOT till about 4k, then kick it into 5th or maybe 6th.  I like to scoot away from traffic but not make a lot of noise. The Bandit and the FZ1 both make so much stinkin hp and torque, you can do this. Plus, I am lazy and don't like rowing all the way up thru the gears, I wanna get it in 6th and lope along ASAP. 

I don't like to speak ill of this bike, but  when I ride the FZ1, it seems to say "Cane me, why are we not doing 9.5k rpm? You know I can do it and I love it, lets GO".  The C10 says "I will rev if I must but it's not really what I am made for".    Bear in mind, the FZ1 has sat in the garage since I got this bike as the C10 is way more softly suspended and comfy and also has 3 lockable hard bags on it (I have a Givi Maxia, came with it), so it's just so darn easy and convenient to jump on this thing and go.

I have addressed the windscreen and will address the HEAT  issue soon.  That's my only remaining complaint and my ankles will rejoice on that day.

[snarf]

I understand there was a forum crash at some point, so the search produces limited results.  I am wondering

a) What is it and how to do I do it?
b) what are the effects on mileage?

I am not terribly happy with my last tank's mileage, I got 36. I do tend to flog it, my other bike is an FZ1 with nearly double the power to weight ratio.  I short shift, rarely rev it above 5k, and I also do something weird I have done since I had a Bandit 1200, which had a lot of power also.  I generally take off in 1st rather rapidly, get it to about 4k, then shift to 3rd and go to WOT till about 4k, then kick it into 5th or maybe 6th.  I like to scoot away from traffic but not make a lot of noise. The Bandit and the FZ1 both make so much stinkin hp and torque, you can do this. Plus, I am lazy and don't like rowing all the way up thru the gears, I wanna get it in 6th and lope along ASAP. 

I don't like to speak ill of this bike, but  when I ride the FZ1, it seems to say "Cane me, why are we not doing 9.5k rpm? You know I can do it and I love it, lets GO".  The C10 says "I will rev if I must but it's not really what I am made for".    Bear in mind, the FZ1 has sat in the garage since I got this bike as the C10 is way more softly suspended and comfy and also has 3 lockable hard bags on it (I have a Givi Maxia, came with it), so it's just so darn easy and convenient to jump on this thing and go.

I have addressed the windscreen and will address the HEAT  issue soon.  That's my only remaining complaint and my ankles will rejoice on that day.

36mpg is not a horrible gas millage. You say she whispers  "I will rev if I must but it's not really what I am made for".  You need to listen closer.  What she is telling you is "please stop short shifting me. I WANT to run 5-8Krpms. Thats what I was made for".
The early 2MM was merely stuffing foam into one portion of the air box.  It improved take off performance, but hurt top end.  The 2MM in its refined state is a kit from SISF. He gives different needles and magic stuff.  It is the bomb.  Either of the two mods will increase MPG.

[PlaynInPeoria]

I never redline this thing anyway, that's what the FZ1 is for.  And I need to stop putting money into this thing.  I have way too much into it already, especially for an old bike.  And I am NOT gonna yank the carbs on this thing to gain 2 hp. I did that on the Bandit and the FZ1 and it was a pain on them and they were naked bikes. 

So can someone give me actual details on how to do the original (free!) 2 minute mod and what I can hope to gain out of it?

[Outback_Jon]

I never redline this thing anyway, that's what the FZ1 is for.

As snarf said, ride her in the 5-8k range for a bit.  She only makes a fraction of her power in the range you are riding her.  I don't redline mine often either, but 8k is still 2.5k away from the red.

If you go from first to third at 4k and then WOT until you reach 4k, you're lugging the bike with the RPMs way too low.  You're likely doing far worse things to the motor than you would by letting her rev.

[Daytona_Mike]

  And I am NOT gonna yank the carbs on this thing to gain 2 hp.
So can someone give me actual details on how to do the original (free!) 2 minute mod and what I can hope to gain out of it?

Free  2 minute mod will give you  better low end torque and  worse gas mileage than your getting now.


If you do not want to remove the carbs to gain fuel economy then there is nothing else you can do  other than shift the bike normally.
By normally  I mean  if you want better fuel economy why would you ever WOT it?
Ride it normal, keep the revs up above 3.5 to 4k range and never shift higher than 9k. If you are not getting over 40mpg then you have no other choice but to have the carbs removed and cleaned which at that point you have  several options to improve performance and  economy. You should also  do a search here  for Hydro lock. You may change your mind about pulling the carbs.
More reading needs to be done here:
http://sites.google.com/site/shoodabenengineering/

[Two Skies]

The two minute mod involves stuffing a piece of foam in the right side of the airbox intake.  I have the right side of my airbox blocked about 60-70% currently, which seems to work out pretty well.  My top end performance has been lessened slightly, but I'm loving the increase in low end torque.  The left side of the airbox intake is completely unrestricted currently on my bike.

The downside of doing this without proper jetting is that you will very likely take a slight hit in MPGs.  My bike has always done fairly well on the MPGs in the 65-75 MPH range.  I average around 45 MPGs with the foam in place, was about 46-48 before.  Also, your bike will run a little richer, which you will probably notice when you pull the plugs out for maintenance.

You should also understand that I am at altitude (around 4250 feet above sea level on average here), and have several long straight roads on my way to the freeway, so not a lot of stop and go.  Both of these help my MPGs.  I also shift between 3-4K RPM, and run the bike in a relaxed manner most of the time (i.e. gentle use of the throttle).

I like the low end torque too much, so I've accepted the MPG hit for now, but when I hit the lottery, etc. I will of course get the economy kit from Steve.

Both of Steve's Jet kits have been noted to increase MPG's, with the economy kit of course giving a better increase in MPG's.  Plus, the increase in low end torque is always a good thing, especially when you are tooling around at low speeds in parking lots and such.

R.E. your MPGs - which are on the low average depending on who you talk to, btw my MPGs drop down to around there above 75 MPH.  If you haven't drained/flushed your carb bowls lately, it just might help, should you have some debris on your float needles and such messing with the metering of your fuel mix.  It's fairly easy to drain your bowls, and who knows, it might help!   

This did wonders for my bike, but then I hadn't drained my bowls in a while, due to the fact I run my bike nearly year round.  I'm at 41,000+ miles on the odo now, and still haven't pulled my carbs, as I'm still getting decent performance/MPGs despite the factory jet settings.  I also use Seafoam every so often as part of my preventative maintenance.  Of course, if my bike sat for any period of time, I'm guessing I'd be due for some carb work by now...

[MAN OF BLUES]

I never redline this thing anyway, that's what the FZ1 is for.  And I need to stop putting money into this thing.  I have way too much into it already, especially for an old bike.  And I am NOT gonna yank the carbs on this thing to gain 2 hp. I did that on the Bandit and the FZ1 and it was a pain on them and they were naked bikes. 

So can someone give me actual details on how to do the original (free!) 2 minute mod and what I can hope to gain out of it?

there ain't no free lunch, sorry....
let me explain;

The 2 minute Mod as it originated, was an experiment bubba asked volunteers to perform, to see if they liked the immediate effects, this mod took 2 minutes to accomplish, and was simply blocking off one side of the airbox intake with a piece of foam, and responding how it changed operation of the bike relating to performance....it was only a "feedback experience" for you to see what happens...

Steve then went into production of a "kit" of finely chosen parts, specially drilled jets, and a combination of these, with him as the builder, and you sending him your carbs to get it installed..... this is called the "2 Minute Mod KIT".

to achieve the benefits, you need to remove tha carbs and send them to him, with a $$ fee, he will build them up, test them, and ship them back to you for installation....you need to understand this all.

It isn't free, it is'nt going to be "divulged here as to the secrets" for free, it's his "product".

understand now?

I generally take off in 1st rather rapidly, get it to about 4k, then shift to 3rd and go to WOT till about 4k, then kick it into 5th or maybe 6th.  I like to scoot away from traffic but not make a lot of noise. The Bandit and the FZ1 both make so much stinkin hp and torque, you can do this. Plus, I am lazy and don't like rowing all the way up thru the gears, I wanna get it in 6th and lope along ASAP. 

Conni don't play like that.....it ain't an FZ, get over it.... It WILL however perform great if you learn (or at least try) to wind it out a bit. It's a generally quiet bike, and it loves to be ridden between 4-7k rpm, it will perform there.... and as for 6th gear, fugggetaboutit....
lugging this bike like that will chug fuel, and that is what you have found.

[Nosmo]

MOB is correct about spinning the Connie engine and not lugging it.  This becomes even more apparent for those of us with the "7th gear" mod and SISF's cam retiming done.  With the engine speed 12% lower in each gear, and increased low-end torgue, there is a greater tendency to loaf along at less than 3000 RPM.  The engine will do it, but it just isn't happy in the long run.  I have to make a conscious effrfort to run in a lower gear and spin up to 3500 - 4000 RPM to keep oil pressure up and vibrations to a decent level.  And I find that mid-range RPM, combined with reasonable throttle (as in non-WOT), yields better fuel mileage than lugging along at 2500.  The carbs aren't working efficiently down there.  While there is plenty of torque to run in 6th down to about 45 MPH I don't use it until I'm up around 65 or 70.  I average right about 45 MPG.  To each his own.

[jim snyder]

a) What is it and how to do I do it?
b) what are the effects on mileage?

 

The "2 min mod" is a carb rejet kit in combination with a partially blocked off airbox intake snout.
The results are instant throttle response and very good mileage. The kit comes in two versions
economy and power. Being a former dragbike racer I naturally went with the power version. Like
mentioned above the carbs must be removed to install it. The airbox must also be removed and
inspected to be sure you do not have any leaks in the airbox. This is critical to the operation of the
kit. The kit is designed to work with controlled airflow so any leaks will take away from that airflow
control. I know all of this sounds like a lot of work but its really not. The end results are amazing.
My bike has Steve's 7th gear unit, and his exhaust cam sprocket mod, K&N filter, and my 4 into 1
exhaust and I can get 45 mpg pretty regularly. The Connie ain't an FZ-1 or a Bandit, but it does
alot more for the money than any bike out there. Give the old girl a chance and she will pleasantly
surprise you.

[Equito]

Unless Steve's changed his procedure, you don't need to send the carbs to him to install the jet kit - he'll sell you the kit to do it yourself, and it's best to use a tube (included with the kit) to properly set the float levels in each carb.

What the carbs have to go to Steve for is the installation of his overflow tube kit.  That kit allows excess fuel (caused by a leaking petcock) to leak from the carb, rather than go into the cylinder and hydrolock that cylinder.  A typical busy purchaser will send Steve his carb bank for a comprehensive cleaning, installation of the jet kit, and installation of the overflow tubes.  He does good work.  That said, however, you can install his jet kit yourself.

And I think somebody above said the kit includes new needles, but it does not.

[SteveJ.]

I generally take off in 1st rather rapidly, get it to about 4k, then shift to 3rd and go to WOT till about 4k, then kick it into 5th or maybe 6th.

Yer killing that engine, oil pressure under 3k rpm falls quite rapidly. The engine is basically a Ninja engine, detuned. It is made to spin. At least do not ask a lot from it under 3-4k rpm. Others have covered the benefits from the 2 MM, they are real. The replacement exhaust cam sprocket is also a good thing for low-midrange. The reground cams are an even gooder thing.

BTW, if the carbbies have Allen bowl screws, you do not have to fully remove them to replace jets. You can rotate the bank of carbs "in place". If you still have the chocolate Phillips screws, the carbbies pretty much have to come out.

With the way you are running the engine, your MPG sounds about all that you can expect. You are asking it to do things it is not designed or tuned to do efficiently. YMMV

Good Luck.