Ran into a problem installing the front Canyon Cage's

[greycobra]

Since MCE is closed today thought I would ask if anyone has an idea how to resolve it.

They are going on a '12 Connie.  Got to the point where you install the 60 mm. bolt in the upper engine mount.  (the right  side)  I can get the bolt started just fine but, about 3/8th's of an inch before it would tighten I run into severe resistance.  Feels like the bolt threads have run out and the bolt shoulder is hitting the motor mount threads. 

I have looked for any misalignment between the motor mount points to make sure that nothing slipped out of place and all looks good.  I can put the original bolt back in with out issue. Also checked the length of the shipped bolts to make sure they are correct.  Eye balled the thread/shoulder length and it appears to be correct to accommodate the added thickness of the Cage mount.

Any ideas?  Thanks in advance.

[Caffeinated]

I had the same issue and ended up stripping the threads out of the aluminum in the engine. DO NOT force it.  I still have to install a Heli-coil to get it to torque correctly.
The motor mount is off a bit, and binds on the new bolt causing it to miss-align in the threads. loosen the motor mount, and see if you can get enough clearance. Also, if you are on the center stand, make sure the front wheel is completely straight. The center stand is directly attached to the engine, and if the wheel is turned, the engine can shift a slight bit when the mounts are loosened.

[greycobra]

Caffeinated,

Started this project on the side side stand. I'll get it on the center stand tomorrow and give your suggestions a try.

Which motor mount are you saying to loosen.  I have the 13 some inch bolt out and of course the mentioned bolt is currently out.  The left side is still untouched.

Yes, I quit as I did not want to deal with what you are  Aluminum and steel don't always mix well.

[Caffeinated]

Caffeinated,

Started this project on the side side stand. I'll get it on the center stand tomorrow and give your suggestions a try.

Which motor mount are you saying to loosen.  I have the 13 some inch bolt out and of course the mentioned bolt is currently out.  The left side is still untouched.

Yes, I quit as I did not want to deal with what you are  Aluminum and steel don't always mix well.

Loosen the upper front right side mount bracket. I believe there are three bolts holding it in place. Once they are loosened you should be able to wiggle the bracket a bit to get it centered.  If you look closely, you will see where the threads of the original bolt dug into the mounting brackets hole.

[Xelvic]

I installed mine 2 days ago too. I ran into the exact same problem. I ended up backing the bolts out and tried to run the factory bolts back in to clean the threads. It was a little tough so I chased the threads with my tap & Die set to clean them up which did the trick. The threads are 10mm by 1.25 if anybody wants to know.  I would recommend doing this because you probably already stripped your threads. You can buy just the 10mm by 1.25 tap for probably under 20 bucks. I would also buy the die to clean up your bolts. It's also a 10mm by 1.25.

I then ran the supplied bolts in without the cage and they went in all the way just fine. So this is what a figured out. If you put the front cage on and have the rear part of it attached to the back mounting point below the gas tank, and then try to attach the front engine bolt, it puts leverage on those engine mounting bolts not allowing the bolt to run in straight. You have to put the front engine mount bolt in with just the front part of the cage without the rear attached. This will elevated any unwanted leverage on those bolts. After you do that you can now attach the very back bolt under the gas tank.

[connie and me]

Thanks alot you guys,, so handlebars straight, on centerstand, and start from the front and work back...

[RBX QB]

I installed mine 2 days ago too. I ran into the exact same problem. I ended up backing the bolts out and tried to run the factory bolts back in to clean the threads. It was a little tough so I chased the threads with my tap & Die set to clean them up which did the trick. The threads are 10mm by 1.25 if anybody wants to know.  I would recommend doing this because you probably already stripped your threads. You can buy just the 10mm by 1.25 tap for probably under 20 bucks. I would also buy the die to clean up your bolts. It's also a 10mm by 1.25.
...

+1

Something else I noticed... the supplied (with the Cage) bolt is long enough that if you did eat a thread or 2, the new bolt is long enough to get deep enough to engage the previously unused threads in the engine. The factory install left about 3 threads on the inside (use a flashlight and you can see this).

I ate threads as Caffeinated did, and was less worried about that after I realized this. Should get you back to factory specs.

Of course, cleaning the red locker out before you try the install will likely eliminate eating threads (and you'll be smarter than me, in the process).

[Makz58]

The red Kawi locker was my issue cleaned out the threads and had no further trouble.

[greycobra]

Caffienated said to try loosening the two upper mount bolts in an attempt to get the bolt holes properly lined up.

My question now is how the heck do you access these bolts.  For the life me I cannot figure it out and I have a shop manual.

[Caffeinated]

Caffienated said to try loosening the two upper mount bolts in an attempt to get the bolt holes properly lined up.

My question now is how the heck do you access these bolts.  For the life me I cannot figure it out and I have a shop manual.

I used a long (7 or 10") extension, and weaved it through whatever was in the way.  I've got a 2011, so if you have a Gen1 or a California version, I'm not sure what's in the way.

[TallyRex]

I installed my canyon cage today and wanted to thank all of you for the tips in this thread.  Took about 1.5 hours, front and back and they look great. Fairing was not remeoved.  We did break an allen wrench when using the breaker bar (I guess that's where it gets its name?), but fortunately we had another one.

[CrashGordon]

Tried to install mine yesterday and it was a no-go. Right side went, though I had the problem mentioned earlier about not being able to install the bolt completely. Problem was too much thread lock gunk. Cleaned that out and bolt went home smoothly. Left side hit a wall. Motor mount bolt will not budge. Ruined two allen drivers and am starting to round out the hex in the bolt. I think my last option is a stuck/damaged bolt remover. Will have to wait until next weekend, though. Late last night I threw in the towel and reverted back. Half a day wasted.

[pistole]

- perhaps support the engine with a jack to get the necessary alignment right with the various mounting bolts.

.

[556ALPHA]

I supported the engine and used a jack handle as a breaker bar.  You may try heating the bolt, maybe that will help with the thread locker.

[RyanMCEnterprises]

Hey guys, sorry I just saw this thread this morning. It sounds like you guys got the problem figured out, though. If the hardware begins to "stick", NEVER force it. If you guys ever need replacement hardware, you can always order it from us as it's really tough to find this hardware at local hardware shops.

Also, if you're ever not sure about something during the install, it's always better to stop where you're at and give us a call. We have a tech here that can help answer any questions you have. It's better to be safe than sorry!

[CrashGordon]

I wasn't sure if heat would help but I can put some heat on it if it will. The right side gave with a lot of muscle and there was resistance over the entire thread until the bolt was out. Thread lock covered THE ENTIRE THREAD SURFACE! Left side will not budge and now my allen driver won't engage the hex head enough to turn it before slipping. I'm using a breaker bar that will give me enough torque to turn the bolt, I just can't engage the bolt now.

[556ALPHA]

I literally used a 3' breaker with the floor jack handle.   It would be best to use a thread tap to clean the threads on the engine mounts. 

[JJFLASH]

Hey guys, sorry I just saw this thread this morning. It sounds like you guys got the problem figured out, though. If the hardware begins to "stick", NEVER force it. If you guys ever need replacement hardware, you can always order it from us as it's really tough to find this hardware at local hardware shops.

Also, if you're ever not sure about something during the install, it's always better to stop where you're at and give us a call. We have a tech here that can help answer any questions you have. It's better to be safe than sorry!

Reading this tread has me starting to wonder......
Red Thread locker is usually high strength and designed for permanent installation (at least the Loctitte brand).  The recommended removal procedure is to use a touch to heat the area to 260 deg F before trying to remove the bolt.

I ordered a set of Canyon cages and am wondering if I need a torch to get these installed.  Does anyone have a factory shop manual?  Does it make any recommendations for removing these bolts?

Thanks

[maxtog]

Reading this tread has me starting to wonder......
Red Thread locker is usually high strength and designed for permanent installation (at least the Loctitte brand).  The recommended removal procedure is to use a touch to heat the area to 260 deg F before trying to remove the bolt.

I ordered a set of Canyon cages and am wondering if I need a torch to get these installed.  Does anyone have a factory shop manual?  Does it make any recommendations for removing these bolts?

We had similar issues with the top bolts being very/surprisingly difficult to remove on my bike.  We did not use heat.  I think we actually did have to use additional leverage on the wrench, most of the time getting the bolt out.

They did have LOTS of threadlock on them.  I have no idea why they had to be so incredibly "in there", even at 1/4 the effort they should never come out on their own.  When we installed the Canyons, I did not use any thread lock at all on the replacement bolts, although some was still left in the engine threads and when tightening the bolts, you could tell that stuff was in there.

[Madcow]

I didn't have any problems with mine but I used an allen socket set instead of allen wrenches.