Yea, the chrome is pretty bright. What do you mean the rears match better, though? Do you mean they match the rear section of the bike better because the fronts overlap that flat black plastic subfairing towards the front of the bike?
Yes, that is what I mean. The bars are identical chrome on the front and rear, but the rears just seem to match better to the bike in chrome than the fronts do. I do think they look "OK", but I realized I couldn't win with the silver bike using chrome or black bars. I think a flat silver powerdercoat that matches the dull-silver hardware on the bike would be the best possible match.
I am curious about other forum members' opinions about how the chromes look on the silver bike.
I'm sorry to hear you're not totally satisfied with the overall attachment though. However, you did say yourself that with the correct tools (and knowledge from previously putting on and taking off the bars) it would take less than 30 minutes to put them on or take them off which really doesn't seem too bad.
Well that, to me, is a lot of time/work to remove something just to then have to remove the fairings. What I was expecting were just three user-facing bolts per side that would take maybe 2 min to remove.
If we were to use a design like you're recommending where there are brackets just inside the fairing that allow you to remove the exterior of the Canyon Cage while leaving the mounting brackets, you'd still have to work through some tight spaces which seems to be the most time consuming part of the install and would surely add cost as well.
To me, it wouldn't matter that is was a tight space if the bolts were facing toward the vent and not toward the front of the bike. Just stick in an extension and bam. That is my biggest problem. It also means I wouldn't have to re-insert the factory mounting bolts afterward, either. Yes, it might have increased the cost some; and might have affected some strength... just how much, I can't say (I am not an engineer
)
The only way to truly get a "quick-release" style would be to use a cotter pin and swage design which would severely reduce the strength.
Agreed. But I never really expected that. Far too weak.
We came to the conclusion that the trade off of a 30 minute install was worth the assurance that the bar wouldn't crumble when the bike was dropped. Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to argue with you or change your opinion. I'm just trying to explain our position and why we made some of the structural decisions we ended up making.
I understand.
