Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C10, aka Kawasaki Concours - The Original => Accessories and Modifications - C10 => Topic started by: Lonestar Cruzer on November 30, 2016, 04:54:59 PM
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I know all about the putting the center stand on wood and all that, I'm just wondering if anyone has a front or rear stand for their C10 that works great, or grants clearance on the rear to do a tire swap. If not, are people interested in one?
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No need for wood or fender mod to remove the rear wheel easily.
Simply unbolt the four nuts where the drive shaft mounts to the Final drive.
Remove the wheel and final drive as one unit. So much easier to do and your supposed to check/lube in there anyway.
See pic and part number 92015A (4 nuts)
http://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/kaw/500b25caf8700223e478f53c/drive-shaft-final-gear (http://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/kaw/500b25caf8700223e478f53c/drive-shaft-final-gear)
For the front wheel a scissor jack or hydraulic jack works well under the engine but put a strap on the center stand (holding forward) to prevent it from flipping back up.
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Never thought of removing the rear like that, didn't run into that method scouring the CoG forums looking for bevel drive removal instructions either. Thanks for the tip Mike. As for the front tire, I used that method when I changed discs / new pads, sort-of. I had the wheel fender off for paint already so I just jacked it up enough to relieve the tension and rolled the front wheel out.
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No need for wood or fender mod to remove the rear wheel easily.
Simply unbolt the four nuts where the drive shaft mounts to the Final drive.
Remove the wheel and final drive as one unit. So much easier to do and your supposed to check/lube in there anyway.
See pic and part number 92015A (4 nuts)
http://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/kaw/500b25caf8700223e478f53c/drive-shaft-final-gear (http://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/kaw/500b25caf8700223e478f53c/drive-shaft-final-gear)
For the front wheel a scissor jack or hydraulic jack works well under the engine but put a strap on the center stand (holding forward) to prevent it from flipping back up.
Awesome trick. Thanks!
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I don't see any reason to do unneeded work for a tire change. I just lifted the bike higher and the wheel came out easily like any shaft drive. To get the axle out required muffler removal, but it came off very easily. No need to modify fender or remove drive.
I use a hydraulic lift, because my bike has had the center stand removed and I don't have it. But, if I had it to use I could still simply lift the bike higher by putting blocks under the stand. The easy way to do this is to roll the bike up onto blocks before putting the stand down onto other blocks.
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No need for wood or fender mod to remove the rear wheel easily.
Simply unbolt the four nuts where the drive shaft mounts to the Final drive.
Remove the wheel and final drive as one unit. So much easier to do and your supposed to check/lube in there anyway.
That is a great idea! My lift has a panel that can be removed to drop the tire out the bottom but its still a pain in the ars. Will let you know how reassemble goes.
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I just rode into a piece of 2x10, then put a 2x4 under the center stand. By pulling one of the bolts from the suspension link, the swing arm drops down giving access to the axle bolt and enough room to wiggle the wheel out.
If you use an axle stand, you won't be able to do that.