Noise at start up

[drohio]

Not sure if this is an issue or not.  The bike just turned 9k.  When I start it up to go to work or back home, the engine makes a knocking sound. Like it is starviing for oil. After it warms up, it quiets down and sounds good. I'm not sure when I first noticed the noise. This only happens when the engine is cold. This is my 4th bike and I don't remember them making this initial noise.

[snarf]

It could be a number of things from "not good to easy fix".   You may have a bent rod from hydro-lock; but before we get excited, can you tell what side the noise is coming from? It could be your alternator, it could be the alt chain, or cam chain tensioner isnt clicking over. Do a search for hydro-lock.
Good luck

[tweeter55]

I had the same noise after only 3-4K on the bike. Coulda swore a rod was going to come through the block at any moment. The dealer took it in to check & the cam chain tensioner was not taking up the slack as quickly as it should have. He manually adjusted it & it's been working properly ever since.

[snarf]

I had the same noise after only 3-4K on the bike. Coulda swore a rod was going to come through the block at any moment. The dealer took it in to check & the cam chain tensioner was not taking up the slack as quickly as it should have. He manually adjusted it & it's been working properly ever since.

I guessing this is what it is.

[T Cro ®]

I guessing this is what it is.

I would hope so.... First rule of engineering is suspect the simple stuff first.

[T Cro ®]

Not sure if this is an issue or not.  The bike just turned 9k.  When I start it up to go to work or back home, the engine makes a knocking sound. Like it is starving for oil. After it warms up, it quiets down and sounds good. I'm not sure when I first noticed the noise. This only happens when the engine is cold. This is my 4th bike and I don't remember them making this initial noise.

First off how long have you owned this bike and what year is it?

2ndly what type of bikes did you own previously; or more importantly is this your first fully faired bike?

Fully faired bikes funnel the engine noise up to your head by design and the ratcheting cam chain tensioner on this bike is known for being lazy and slow to respond to cam chain wear which will make for a noisy motor on cold start up.

The tensioner can be removed for inspection to make sure it is not stuck and there is a simple procedure to help it take up slack a little sooner if really needed; which is usually not but it helps some owners sleep better.

Where is the noise coming from? From the left and up high is the cam chain tensioner.

What does it really sound like; is it a true knock, or more along the lines of a loud tap, etc?

[mdr]

9k miles??  Wow.  Low mileage

Valves been adjusted?  For real?  The first adjustments are said to be the most important as things are wearing in then. <?>  Learn to do it yourself or find a wrench you trust to really do it and not just move it around the parking lot then charge for it.

With those few miles, could be the chain tensioner is arthritic.  I know after I sit for awhile, things don't move as well 

[T Cro ®]

9k miles??  Wow.  Low mileage

My 01 purchased new in the spring of 02 has just rolled past 13K...

Work and stuff keep me from pouring on the miles; couple that with a fetish for taking good care of my stuff like a cover and heated garage equals an 01 that that could pass for an 11 to the unknowing eye.

[JP]

What oil are you using? try a nice thick 15-40 or 20-50
Quiets $hit right down and helps improve shifting,

[snarf]

What oil are you using? try a nice thick 15-40 or 20-50
Quiets $hit right down and helps improve shifting,

And ear plugs.  I got used to wearing them for so many years the first time I forgot them I thought my bike was coming apart going down the hwy

[bbroj]

And ear plugs.  I got used to wearing them for so many years the first time I forgot them I thought my bike was coming apart going down the hwy

+1 

[drohio]

The bikes I had in the past were Yamaha Seca Turbo, Kawasaki Voyager and a Honda Nighthawk.  I don't remember any of them making this noise.  I bought the bike in March with about 5400 miles.  The previous owner had a 4k service done, carbs rebuilt, new battery and oil change. Since I've had it I've changed the oil.  I'm not sure what the 4k service included, so I am going to check the valves and cam tensioner.  The noise is more a knock than a tick and sounds like it is coming from the left side.  Thanks for all the feed back guys.  This is a great site!

[JDM]

The bikes I had in the past were Yamaha Seca Turbo, Kawasaki Voyager and a Honda Nighthawk.  I don't remember any of them making this noise.  I bought the bike in March with about 5400 miles.  The previous owner had a 4k service done, carbs rebuilt, new battery and oil change. Since I've had it I've changed the oil.  I'm not sure what the 4k service included, so I am going to check the valves and cam tensioner.  The noise is more a knock than a tick and sounds like it is coming from the left side.  Thanks for all the feed back guys.  This is a great site!

Loosen the two bolts that hold the cam chain tensioner about 1/8" out then re-tighten both and see if the noise goes away.

[Furbo]

If it's the cam chain tensioner - highly recommend one of Kriegers manual tensioners. 2 EZ

www.kriegercamchaintensioners.com] [url=http://www.kriegercamchaintensioners.com]www.kriegercamchaintensioners.com[/url]

[RFH87_Connie]

As mentioned in the second post above, the alternator could be suspect if it is more like a knock.  Pull the alternator (one connector and 3 allen bolts) and check the bolt that secures the drive flang/impeller.  A few people have had this come loose and it kind of rattles and knocks.  A few times back while dooing the valves, I took mine out and removed the bolt, then put it back in with locktite.

I also have that same manual CCT and just check it once in a while.  My bike is the red one on his site.

[m hanlen]

I adjusted my valves twice in the first 20k. Each time they didn't need anything worth mentioning so I let it go 'til one day at 62k, I felt a need or suspicion, so I did it and found several real tight. I gave them all a thousandth over specs. Closed it up, adjusted the idle mixture and speed. Everything seemed fine except the valve noise seemed to be louder and I thought I had a knock. Common sense would say I left something loose and I didn't want to do it again so I came to the forum and found possibilities that were worth looking into before going into the valve train.

1. Chain tensioner, Loosen the two bolts that hold the cam chain tensioner about 1/8" out then re-tighten both and see if the noise goes away.
2. Exhaust emission gasket out of place
3. Alternator drive bolt, Pull the alternator (one connector and 3 allen bolts) and check the bolt that secures the drive flang/impeller.  A few people have had this come loose and it kind of rattles and knocks.  A few times back while dooing the valves, I took mine out and removed the bolt, then put it back in with locktite.

I studied the pictures and procedures for Chain tensioner R&R, as well as what good ones and bad ones looked like and a manual tensioner.
I followed the manuals removal procedure and did not find anything wrong with it. I followed your 1/8" procedure for installing. Started it up and couldn't believe how quiet it was. I am impressed. I've twisted wrenches for over 55 years and knew something real bad was wrong. It sounded and felt bad.
I can't thank all of you enough, for sharing your problems and answers.

[VirginiaJim]

If no noise before the procedure and there is noise now, it was something with what you did.  I'd go back into it to double check.

[SteveJ.]

Generally speaking on a C-10, tappy valves are happy valves, within reason, of course. They should get quieter as the engine warms. They also are quiet when too tight. Anybody else around that could give a listen?

The self adjuster will tend to get noisy before it clicks to the next spot, or it could be defective and will not tighten up.



The only way to 100% assure yourself that nothing got messed up is to go back in.

[m hanlen]

If no noise before the procedure and there is noise now, it was something with what you did.  I'd go back into it to double check.

Generally speaking on a C-10, tappy valves are happy valves, within reason, of course. They should get quieter as the engine warms. They also are quiet when too tight. Anybody else around that could give a listen?
The self adjuster will tend to get noisy before it clicks to the next spot, or it could be defective and will not tighten up.
The only way to 100% assure yourself that nothing got messed up is to go back in.

I really thought it was something I did but I followed the suggestions and the first one (adjusting the automatic adjuster) worked. Don't know why it backed off or what happened. I didn't turn the engine backwards at anytime. It was just noisy and I attributed it to me setting the valves .001 extra loose on intake and exhaust and it was noisy immediately which bothered me enough to read on the forum before I rechecked the adjustment. I'm glad I didn't have to take that valve cover off again. Yes, I'm lazy and that's one reason I ride a Concours, ya don't have to work on it all the time! She's quiet and happy now like she usually is.