Jbox issue before trip?

[mcman56]

Recently I have just got a click when pressing the starter button.  I would just press again and it would start so I thought I was imagining it.  Today it happened 3 times in a row before it started.  I thought the click came from under the right side cover but see that is not the jbox or solenoid location.  (it is the starter button side)  I have not ridden at night so don't know if I have any light problems.  After the first start all was fine.

1.  Is this a sign of jbox failure or could the starter button make a click?  (it seems a little simple and the jbox issues I read about on the forum seem more complex)

2.  I'm due to take off on a trip Wednesday morning.  If this is the Jbox, are there any quick sources or is my best bet to try finding solenoids and DIY?

3.  Does the failure only affect starting?  Can you just jumper the starter solenoid like on 1960s fords?  I used pliers but sort of remember seeing a button with two alligator clips that could be used.  Do auto parts places still sell thing like this.  I would not consider this a permanent fix but could be a way to get home. 

[George R. Young]

Some fix-ups
http://web.ncf.ca/ag136/jBoxDiagnosis.htm

[DC Concours]

You are in a sticky situation. If your jbox is broken I would highly recommend fixing/replacing it before going on a trip. George has a nice link for you.

Some have had intermittent and then sudden and complete failures where you are dead in water. Doesn't matter if you jump start. You are done.

However, most times you will get warning signs your jbox is faulty (like you may be having) and the bike may run for a while but I only recommend riding around town in a situation like that.

[T Cro ®]

Totally not a "FIX" but very often one can whack the J-Box with the plastic end of a screwdriver a couple odd times to make work at least one more time...

[MAN OF BLUES]

my experience with the jbox relay syndrome, is not like yours, and I've done a lot of jbox issues for folks....
They either work, or don't... if you hit the starter button, it either hits... or nothing.  ( meaning no click)
So if it is doing the "click" I don't say its the box... more likely the actual starter button itself.... invisble resistive corrosion, careful removal of the pod, with towel in place over the tank and seams, and careful disassembly and abrasive cleaning of the buttons little copper contact, the ends of the spring, and the little blob of solder the contact has to hit, should clear this up...

Now, along with this, remove the battery cables, and abrasively clean them, and the terminals on the battery, also the ones on the solenoid by the junction box... don't just look and say they "look ok", remove and clean them.. and tighten everything back up



Do the free stuff, this is all free, you can do this all in about an hour...

Oh, every Connie owner has a spare J box, so buy one off e bay... and you will never need it... because if you have it, well, you know.

[mcman56]

Thanks for all of the input on this. 
I pulled the box apart.  The solder joints looked very good to my eye.  Frys had relays in stock so I decided to go ahead and install them.  My solder skills are not that great but it was very easy and looked good when done  The solder sucker made a big difference.  I also pulled the starter button and cleaned it with contact cleaner.  It looked difficult to get an abrasive in there.  There was a crack to get the battery terminal bolts loose but they were not very light.  The terminals looked good but I cleaned them anyway.     

[mcman56]

I went to go for a test ride and got another click.  It started on second try.  I could not reproduce the click but by feeling the starter relay, I'm pretty sure that is the source of the click.  So if the relay is triggering but the starter is not running, could this be bad connections to starter, bad starter or bad starter relay?

[gPink]

Have you load tested the battery?

[mcman56]

Is there a way to do that at home or do I need to take is somewhere?
I have 12.8 V with key off and about 12.4 with key on.   Hazard lights had little effect.   It won't crank with kill button on so I could not try that.  Hitting the starter it starts instantly any time except when I just get a click.  Battery is just over a year old and lives on a battery tender when not driven for a while.       

[gPink]

You can test the starting load with your VOM. Connect the leads to the battery, set the meter to the dc 20 volt range and hit the starter while watching the voltage meter. If while the starter is engaged the voltage drops below about 9.5 the battery is suspect.

[mcman56]

It starts instantly so there is no real way to watch a meter.  I took it to Oreilly's for load test.  The person seemed totally unfamiliar with the tester and it sat a 0 min charging for 5 or 10 minutes but was called good.  It had 12.8 volts so I don't understand why it needed any charging.

[Mettler1]

  I found my "click" was dirty contacts at the start button. I cleaned mine up with emery paper and it works fine. Just watch out for little parts and spring in the starter button.

[mcman56]

Any idea what resistance should be across a switch?  The button has about 82 K ohms static.  When pressed, I can get <1 up to about 33 pushing in different angular directions.

[MAN OF BLUES]

Any idea what resistance should be across a switch?  The button has about 82 K ohms static.  When pressed, I can get <1 up to about 33 pushing in different angular directions.

Should be zero ohms when button is pushed....
As noted, disassemble and clean using sandpaper on the items I said....
Contact cleaner spray isn't gonna acomplish anything...

[mcman56]

After cleaning the switch and checking all cables, the failure eventually became more consistent and I could nail it down as the solenoid.  I was taking off the next day and no local shops had a replacement in stock.  The only readily available option I could find was an old style Ford solenoid, $13 at OReilly's.  It took a little wiring but fits nicely under the seat and works great.