Pros & Cons on 5w30 oil

[julianop]

So... that's... your wife, then, Steve?

[SteveJ.]

So... that's... your wife, then, Steve?

Not mine, just an image from the inter-webs.

[SteveJ.]

I'm gonna try to attach a file of a recent Blackstone report. The Rotella dyno oil had 6500 miles on it, they recommended I extend to 8000 miles on the next change.

[Summit670]

Thanks Steve.  Can you give us a general idea what kind of riding was done in the 6500 miles?
Interstate, highways, city
Speedy or regular riding/rpms
What oil filter brand and was it cartridge or spin-on

[SteveJ.]

Thanks Steve.  Can you give us a general idea what kind of riding was done in the 6500 miles?
Interstate, highways, city
Speedy or regular riding/rpms
What oil filter brand and was it cartridge or spin-on

The oil had about 1100 miles of commuting, 12 each way. I take it easy in the am as it is dark out, but I'm not afraid to let 'er sing  on the way home, two lane rural.

5400 miles on a trip, probably about 25-3000 mi upper 70's loaded with camping gear, the rest except for about 150 miles of twisties, was about 60-70mph thru two lane in Ontario. About 1000 miles of slab was at 90 degrees++.

Cart filter, K&N, from Murphs', of course.

I'm using the Rotella syn this time. I intend to sample it at 8k miles and see if there's a difference.

[IraB]

Question for you guys.

My bike has 11,000 miles on it and has always been run with Castrol full synthetic  10w 40.
I also have an 81 VW diesel Rabbit pick up using Rotella 15w 40 dino and it would be handy and a heck of a lot cheaper to use the same in the bike also.
When you switch from synthetic to dino, do you change the oil at a very short interval again to get rid of traces of the synthetic or is that a non issue?

[T Cro ®]

Question for you guys.

My bike has 11,000 miles on it and has always been run with Castrol full synthetic  10w 40.
I also have an 81 VW diesel Rabbit pick up using Rotella 15w 40 dino and it would be handy and a heck of a lot cheaper to use the same in the bike also.
When you switch from synthetic to dino, do you change the oil at a very short interval again to get rid of traces of the synthetic or is that a non issue?

No issue whatsoever...

[IraB]

No issue whatsoever...

Thanks for the info.
"The Boss", drives an 05 Corolla and there was some chatter in those forums about changing from synth. to dino causing the oil to congeal in passages.   Sounded pretty bogus to me.

[timsatx]

I've run Mobil 1 15W50 Full Synthetic Oil year round for years and I find that the shifting remains smooth from oil change to oil change...

I have never had smooth shifting from my Connie. I think it is just the nature of some bikes. The smoothest I get is when accelerating and shifting about above 4k rpm.

[timsatx]

So most likely you are using improper weight oil in at least the Connie as it specs 10-40.

Yeah, and? The specs from my manual say 10w-40, I am using 5w-40. No biggie and the 5w provides easier starting and the oil is quicker to get to the parts.

[Cholla]

Yeah? The OP axed about 5W30 oil. Not 5W40.
And 5W30 will have the friction modifiers said to harm wet clutches.

[timsatx]

And yet I have never had a problem with any of my clutches using oil with friction modifiers. Indeed, reports I have seen show that most people have not had issues using those kinds of oil. It appears to be a minority in that regard.

[SteveJ.]

And yet I have never had a problem with any of my clutches using oil with friction modifiers. Indeed, reports I have seen show that most people have not had issues using those kinds of oil. It appears to be a minority in that regard.

I had problems with an XS750 triple, thought I would put in thinner, i.e. 5w30, oil for the cold months while living in MN.  It did not work out so well.  It also messed up the starter clutch. It had a kick start, that saved the day.

[timsatx]

Are you saying that you were using energy conserving oil and went with a lower viscosity oil and then had the problem?

[m hanlen]

Mobil 1, 5w 30, 60k, never a problem year round in Houston. Works for me, to each, his own. 

[Cholla]

If you used 5-30 from new and esecially in a hot climate and had an engine problem I doubt Kawaski would honor the warranty.

[timsatx]

How would they know?

[m hanlen]

If you used 5-30 from new and esecially in a hot climate and had an engine problem I doubt Kawaski would honor the warranty.

Kawasaki has never been consumer friendly.
This is a forum to share ideas and information.
I'm not trying to convince anyone, it works for me.
I believe in 10 psi per 1k rpm up to about 50 and then you'll wash out the bearings.
As long as the oil is not too thin while hot, I'm good.
I've also run AmsOil in 2 cycles at 128 to 1 without ash build up, heat or maintenance. Al Unser was using it at 200 to 1. I wasn't that brave.
Only the lead sled dog has a good view.

[Cholla]

Nor am I trying to convince anyone. I am stating what the factory says to use.
There are some bikes out there which call for 10-60 and you had better use it or...boom!
Big K also says 6k between valve adjustments but most go 10k, right?
I never had a problem with warranty service with Kawasaki. Two sets of wheel bearings and a water pump.

How would they know?
Take an engine in for a suspected lubrication failure and the oil gets sent to a lab, I ga ron tee.

[enim57]

If you used 5-30 from new and esecially in a hot climate and had an engine problem I doubt Kawaski would honor the warranty.

Not really an issue for a C10 as the bikes ceased production in 2006, warranties have expired.

Regards, Russell