Author Topic: So my swingarm seems to need work: I guess? (Read 10256 times)

gpzrocker · « **on:** April 29, 2012, 04:13:36 PM »

On a ride this weekend I had to do some slab time. A friend confirmed what I thought: on the interstate he sees my swing arm moving side to side. He said he thought it was not my tire, but the whole assembly. At a stop we put it on the center stand and nothing moving, just like when I checked it when I put the Shinko on. I wrote it off as the Shinko, being that I did not notice it with the Avon.

Looked at the diagram, looks fairly simple, although I am used to one swingarm bolt all of the way through, I see one on each side. Correct? and I am assuming from my previous motorcycles and how this all works that the shock linkage could not cause any problem like this, although I am sure those bearings need replaced too.

Gratuitous photo shot of the ride this weekend anyway:

jim snyder · « **Reply #1 on:** April 29, 2012, 05:27:04 PM »

When was the last time your swingarm bushing bolts were checked and torqued?

Roadhound · « **Reply #2 on:** April 30, 2012, 05:28:29 AM »

I've found it to be a good idea to pull the swingarm, grease the swingarm bearings and torque the pivot bolts as explained in the Factory Service Manual. You will find that there is very little grease in the bearings, if the swingarm has been loose for a while the bearing races could be notched so take a good look at them.

gpzrocker · « **Reply #3 on:** April 30, 2012, 02:45:38 PM »

I have had the bike for 2 years around 5K miles and never have done the swingarm. Guess it is time. Have only noticed the issue in the last 500 miles or so, so I guess it is time.

Roadhound · « **Reply #4 on:** April 30, 2012, 05:36:55 PM »

I clean and grease mine once a year, same as I do the steering head bearings. That is usually around 25,000 to 30,000 miles. It's not a hard job and it gives you a chance to look things over and clean some things up.

Lodogg2221 · « **Reply #5 on:** May 04, 2012, 01:07:41 PM »

Are there any parts that could need replaced in there?
Anything specific to look for?

Im thinking I need to look at mine. Have noticed a bit of movement in the back end, and thought it was the tire, but maybe its not.

Do you need to buy any seals or anything when removing the final drive from the shaft? Not really sure how that comes apart, but I assume it has to since its part of the swingarm.

Mettler1 · « **Reply #6 on:** May 04, 2012, 09:30:05 PM »

I have a tall Rifle windshield on my '94. I had a similar problem with tail wiggle on E-ways. Turned out I did not have enough preload on my fork settings. When I stopped for gas I turn the preload adjusters in (down) until I only had 1 line showing on the adjuster.That cured the wiggle!
Bike had not done the wiggle until I went from the stock windshield to the tall Rifle. I'm pretty sure it was caused by the extra frontal area of the new shield. I read about it someplace and it came back to me that day.

Lodogg2221 · « **Reply #7 on:** May 05, 2012, 05:49:43 AM »

Quote from: Mettler1 on May 04, 2012, 09:30:05 PM

I have a tall Rifle windshield on my '94. I had a similar problem with tail wiggle on E-ways. Turned out I did not have enough preload on my fork settings. When I stopped for gas I turn the preload adjusters in (down) until I only had 1 line showing on the adjuster.That cured the wiggle!
Bike had not done the wiggle until I went from the stock windshield to the tall Rifle. I'm pretty sure it was caused by the extra frontal area of the new shield. I read about it someplace and it came back to me that day.

Ill try that too, since I do indeed have a tall Rifle on mine...only trouble is, I cant remember if it did it before or not! Darn CRS anyway...

redzgrider · « **Reply #8 on:** May 05, 2012, 07:12:11 AM »

Since the pivots are separated, you don't have to pull the swing arm out to service the bearings, you can do them one at a time -- to a point, anyway. It's been a while since I greased mine -- which were almost dry from the factory -- but I recall doing the L/H side first, then the R/H side. If you haven't looked at the breakdown, bikebandit has a good view of the set-up (attached). Pull the L/H pivot via the three outer screws -- since the outer races are fitted to the swing arm, the pivots are all that hold the bearings in place. Wash the bearing with your favorite solvent -- I like WD-40 -- then pack it with good grease just like it was a wheel bearing. Re-install the pivot and repeat for the R/H side. Bear in mind (pun intended) that the packed grease will have to settle as you install the pivots. The R/H pivot has the adjustment, which is a bit tougher, since you need to preload the pivot, then hold it while applying torque to the lock nut. I find a crow's foot for the nut works well, while allowing a socket for holding the pivot pre-load.

Leo · « **Reply #9 on:** May 06, 2012, 07:07:30 AM »

They are true bearings, not bushings. Get some extra grease seals ahead of time. I wish they had designed zerk fittings into the system. I did mine about 50,000 miles ago and they do not even need to be readjusted. One you really grease the bearings liberally with good grease, they should be good for the life of the bike. That is unless you store you bike underwater during floods. Good Luck

timsatx · « **Reply #10 on:** May 06, 2012, 07:16:04 AM »

Upgrade to the bronze bushings. I will before too long.

redzgrider · « **Reply #11 on:** May 06, 2012, 07:14:22 PM »

I'm sorry, but to me changing from an adjustable tapered roller bearing to a fixed bushing is never going to be an improvement.

Daytona_Mike · « **Reply #12 on:** May 06, 2012, 11:07:24 PM »

Quote from: redzgrider on May 06, 2012, 07:14:22 PM

I'm sorry, but to me changing from an adjustable tapered roller bearing to a fixed bushing is never going to be an improvement.

Most people would think that but in reality it is.
I will doing mine soon , right after I rebuilt the front forks. I am at 100k (no respect) hard miles.

Boomer343 · « **Reply #13 on:** May 06, 2012, 11:52:57 PM »

The bronze bushings are in the shock linkage....they replace the needle bearings.....good swap to do.....swingarm is the tapered bearings and that would take some major machining and modifications to change to bushings....

timsatx · « **Reply #14 on:** May 07, 2012, 10:37:08 AM »

Quote from: redzgrider on May 06, 2012, 07:14:22 PM

I'm sorry, but to me changing from an adjustable tapered roller bearing to a fixed bushing is never going to be an improvement.

You might want to read this thread:

http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=6061.0

Mettler1 · « **Reply #15 on:** May 07, 2012, 10:54:26 AM »

Looks to me like we are discussing 2 different items. Shock linkage bearings and swingarm bearings. So which is it ?

timsatx · « **Reply #16 on:** May 07, 2012, 11:53:49 AM »

What I am talking about is all the above.

redzgrider · « **Reply #17 on:** May 07, 2012, 06:18:08 PM »

You're correct -- different subjects. Shock linkage with needle bearings instead of the swing arm tapered roller.

gpzrocker · « **Reply #18 on:** May 07, 2012, 11:33:21 PM »

Yes, i was referring to the swing arm bearings, but I could see working up both at the same time. I have done the rocker arm bushings before on another bike and see the value of the solid bushings.

Still have not opened it all up yet. Silly life getting in the way.

T Cro ® · « **Reply #19 on:** May 08, 2012, 05:54:31 AM »

Quote from: redzgrider on May 06, 2012, 07:14:22 PM

I'm sorry, but to me changing from an adjustable tapered roller bearing to a fixed bushing is never going to be an improvement.

In the swingarm? NO

In the Shock Linkage? YES

Bronze Bushing work as good and better in the "correct" application such as the shock linkages; my rear end will agree.

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Author Topic: So my swingarm seems to need work: I guess? (Read 10256 times)