Kawasaki Concours Forum
Concours 1400 (C14) FAQ => C-14, aka Concours-14 GTR 1400 => Body and frame => Topic started by: Klavdy on March 12, 2012, 04:59:07 AM
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It's a trap for a young player if you don't realise there are another two bolts (one on each side)that need to be undone.
They are under the black plastic caps on the front of the screen.
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/20120128_122958.jpg)
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28/gnusblat/1400%20GTR/20120128_123351.jpg)
TAGS : Screen Remove Windscreen How to Kawasaki GTR1400 Concours
Thanks to "Kwikasfuki" (http://www.gtr1400.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic,1308.0.html)
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Word of advice for anyone taking the screen off is to use a 3/8 hex socket to remove the screws. The two hidden bolts are extremely soft. Please make sure that your hex bit is firmly seated in the bolt. Sometimes you have to wiggle the hex socket to make it seat correctly. If you don't do this you WILL round it out and make further screen changes a nightmare.
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Good call on the soft hex heads, mate.
Any reason they shouldn't/cant be replaced with better ones?
Cheers.
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I don't see why not. As to where you'd find it is another story. It's easier to just use the right tools to get them off, though.
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No worries,
the reason I've asked is that I want to add another cigarette/Powerlet outlet to the left hand side of the dash where there is a circular 'Blanking Plate" just next to the headlamp adjuster.
Needed to take the screen off to neatly get to the pop in/out plastic rivet that holds the infill moulding on.
Then I can hook up the cig/Powerlet outlet up to the male/female bullet connectors under that hood thing.
I'd rather not drill holes in panels and that knock out blanking plate hooked up to the fused 10 amp (on the 2008's) looks the biz.
(Thanks to Fred Harmon for the pics, clickity click (http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/accleads))
(http://i.pbase.com/g6/41/9841/2/82721876.eTHs5lpF.jpg)
(http://i.pbase.com/g6/41/9841/2/82721871.tjGO2fwL.jpg)
It's hard to find just the cig/powerlet socket on Powerlets (http://www.powerlet.com/product/standard-powerlet-socket/280) web site, you have to put "PSO-001" or "Standard Powerlet Socket"
(http://www.powerlet.com/images/imageResizer.php?image_type=PRODPRIM&fileName=PSO-001_p_571_webl.jpg&maxWidth=600)
Powerlet have been asked if they can provide a plain socket with a weather resistant rubber boot and a set of short leads terminating in bullet connectors to suit the fused ones under the left panel.
Tell you what they say when they reply.
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Do me a favor and start a new thread on that. Put it into the Electrical board. Document it as much as you can. I can tell you though from others doing that there's not a lot of room behind that plug.
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?board=30.0 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?board=30.0)
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Sears sells a nice set of "T" handle hex wrenches that work well for these soft bolts. If they are available separately, a 4, 5 and 6 will work well for this bike. I prefer them to the socket and hex as the t handle lets you stay centered over the fastener. I had no idea it was possible to zinc plate cheese until I worked with these bolts.
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The C10 had chocolate bolts. This is an upgrade.
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Do me a favor and start a new thread on that. Put it into the Electrical board. Document it as much as you can. I can tell you though from others doing that there's not a lot of room behind that plug.
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?board=30.0 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?board=30.0)
O.K will do,started into it today, took off the screen, infill panels etc but ran into a spot of bother.
What a bugger, there's a mounting bracket type deal directly behind that round "Blanking Plate" on the left hand side of the dash, just to the left of the headlight adjuster knob.
Can't get to the back of it without further, more involved dismantling.
Hmmm, time for plan B.
I'll do a write up with pics etc and put it in the suggested board.
Just have to come up with a cunning plan first,,,
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The C10 had chocolate bolts. This is an upgrade.
And all this time I thought they were made of compressed oatmeal. Go figure.
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O.K will do,started into it today, took off the screen, infill panels etc but ran into a spot of bother.
What a bugger, there's a mounting bracket type deal directly behind that round "Blanking Plate" on the left hand side of the dash, just to the left of the headlight adjuster knob.
Can't get to the back of it without further, more involved dismantling.
Hmmm, time for plan B.
I'll do a write up with pics etc and put it in the suggested board.
Just have to come up with a cunning plan first,,,
You were forewarned. ;)
Do me a favor and start a new thread on that. Put it into the Electrical board. Document it as much as you can. I can tell you though from others doing that there's not a lot of room behind that plug.
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?board=30.0 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?board=30.0)
I believe there were some other threads where people made this mod, but had to grind away the extra metal so that the plug could fit.
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Heres a goofy tip to help with the cheesy hex bolts. Toothpaste. Plain old colgate white, or such. Dip end of hex wrench in toothpaste and its less likely to slip. Plus, the slick paste lets the wrench slide in further. If you really want to do it right, try valve grinding compound.
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Heres a goofy tip to help with the cheesy hex bolts. Toothpaste. Plain old colgate white, or such. Dip end of hex wrench in toothpaste and its less likely to slip. Plus, the slick paste lets the wrench slide in further. If you really want to do it right, try valve grinding compound.
may need to try that. tried the remove wind screen awhile back and started to mangle one the the screw heads. stopped as soon as I saw the movement and never tried again. will give this a try along with a 3/8 hex.