Author Topic: Lowering the bike/seat  (Read 59896 times)

Offline Gabriel

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #80 on: September 07, 2013, 10:49:43 AM »
Why not just slide the fork tubes up in the trees? I never looked to see if the tubes are the same dimension all the way down but i don't remember seeing any rises of reduction in diameter?

Offline maxtog

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #81 on: September 07, 2013, 11:58:46 AM »
Why not just slide the fork tubes up in the trees? I never looked to see if the tubes are the same dimension all the way down but i don't remember seeing any rises of reduction in diameter?

Indeed.  You simply slide the forks up.  But you will have to add bar risers to do this, otherwise there is no room.  Perhaps he wants to lower the front (which is the right thing to do if you lower the rear) and yet wants to keep the bars the same.  In that case, I am not sure what one would do.
Shoodaben (was Guhl) Mountain Runner ECU flash, Canyon Cages front/rear, Helibars risers, Phil's wedges, Grip Puppies, Sargent World seat-low & heated & pod, Muzzy lowering links, Soupy's stand, Nautilus air horn, Admore lightbar, Ronnie's highway pegs, front running lights, all LED, helmet locks, RAM Xgrip, Sena SMH10, Throttle Tamer, MRA X-Creen, BearingUp Shifter, PR4-GT, Scorpion EXO-T1200,etc

Offline Gabriel

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #82 on: September 07, 2013, 12:07:21 PM »
I just lowered the rear 1" and did not change the front. I can't tell if it handles any different but I'm sure two-up changes it more than the amount I lowered it.
I put a ZX14 seat on it which lowered it a little also. I have a "33/34" inseam (depending on how fat or thin I am ::)), the fatter I get the shorter my legs are? :o

Offline MAXPWR

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #83 on: August 02, 2017, 07:15:07 AM »
I just dropped Connie at a "Zero speed" intersection (I should have known it would be a  matter of time before this happened).
I read as much as I could regarding lowering the bike on this forum.
I already have the Sargent lower seat.

I have bar risers installed and plan on dropping front 1".
I'd like to drop the rear 1" also.
So, are these SAFE and ok to use?

https://www.ebay.com/i/232284697312?chn=ps&dispItem=1
« Last Edit: August 09, 2017, 07:49:52 PM by MAXPWR »

Offline connie_rider

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #84 on: August 02, 2017, 09:25:40 AM »
I have Muzzy links on mine. I dropped front and rear 1".
They may work fine, but I don't like the links with 3 holes.
One reason is you can't/shouldn't lower the bike more than 1".

I've seen a 1 step link at T-Rex Racing. Looks to be a better link to me.
If you can weld, both stands can be shortened an inch.
Side stand is EZ. Center takes a bit more work. I have photo's of where to cut/modify.
If interested, PM me a phone number and I could send them that way.

Ride safe, Ted

PS: I'll be out of town until Friday.

Offline MAXPWR

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #85 on: August 02, 2017, 09:58:23 AM »
Thank you for the reply. I looked at the T-REX but they don't state if the center stand has to go. Also, do you have a web link for the Muzzy's? I cant seem to come up with anything there.

Offline maxtog

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #86 on: August 02, 2017, 03:32:48 PM »
I just dropped Connie at a "Zero speed" intersection (I should have known it would be a  matter of time before this happened).

Sometimes that can happen, even with longer legs- you can place your foot on slippery oil or loose gravel and wham.  So don't feel bad.  It is just more LIKELY to happen when you have shorter legs.

Quote
I read as much as I could regarding lowering the bike on this forum. I already have the Sargent lower seat. I don't mind loosing the center stand. I have bar risers installed and plan on dropping front 1". I'd like to drop the rear 1" also.
So, are these SAFE and ok to use? https://www.ebay.com/i/232284697312?chn=ps&dispItem=1

Yes, they are safe to use as long as you don't attempt lower more than around 1" (maybe a bit more, but certainly NOT 1.75"+, I can ONLY validate 1").  Anything more than that and you are running into unknown risks of bottoming out the suspension and slamming the rear fender into the bike's lower, etc.  With that particular design, I cannot tell if you must lose the center stand.  On most "variable" adjustable links, there is additional hardware that gets in the way and that is why the center stand must go.  The one you linked to is a bit different, so I think it will NOT require center stand removal.  Side stand should be fine.

I can't believe they would even offer a 4", there is no situation I can think of where that would work.  There are three holes, and their "details" don't say what drop is offered by each hole.... which is very concerning.  How are you supposed to know what options there are without any information?  You could buy those and end up with one hole being 0", the next 2" and the next 4", leaving you with NO USABLE/SAFE OPTIONS but stock!   I would Email him and ask, and also request they update their listings with that CRITICAL information.  Finally, with three holes, closely side-by-side in aluminum, with no reinforcement, how strong is that unit going to be?  There is a lot of force going through that thing.  If it fails, you could go down, and fast.

My recommendation is the Muzzys links ( http://muzzys.com ), which I am not sure is made anymore, or something like that design (which T-Tex appears to be)

See also http://projektd.com/product_info.php?products_id=85  (Which ALSO doesn't list drop amount!!!)

As I warn in my first postings, the proper location to measure actual drop is from the axle center of the rear wheel.  If you measure the back of the frame, there will appear to be more drop, or forward of the axle, it will appear be less drop.  So who even knows what claimed numbers mean until you put it on and measure it yourself (just make sure to do it on level ground and make sure to bounce in the bike a few times first).
Shoodaben (was Guhl) Mountain Runner ECU flash, Canyon Cages front/rear, Helibars risers, Phil's wedges, Grip Puppies, Sargent World seat-low & heated & pod, Muzzy lowering links, Soupy's stand, Nautilus air horn, Admore lightbar, Ronnie's highway pegs, front running lights, all LED, helmet locks, RAM Xgrip, Sena SMH10, Throttle Tamer, MRA X-Creen, BearingUp Shifter, PR4-GT, Scorpion EXO-T1200,etc

Offline gPink

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #87 on: August 02, 2017, 03:47:17 PM »
Looks like someone is trying to reconstitute Muzzy's.

Offline MAXPWR

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #88 on: August 03, 2017, 05:00:35 AM »
Thanks maxtog. I ended up ordering the T-REX links and side stand combo. These links do NOT have the multiple holes as I agree with you about the weakness of additional holes. They're claim is 1 1/2" drop so I'm gambling that will be 1" in reality and won't risk being too much. I'll report back with some before and after measurements after I install them as well as dropping front end too.
« Last Edit: August 04, 2017, 07:36:56 PM by MAXPWR »

Offline connie_rider

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #89 on: August 05, 2017, 11:05:50 AM »
Before you install the new links, put the bike on the center stand and measure center of axle to a point on the frame.
 After you install, {again, with bike on center stand} repeat that measurement.
The difference is your actual drop.

After your done, lower the front the "same" amount, and readjust your spring sag. {it will change slightly}

Ride safe, Ted
« Last Edit: August 05, 2017, 07:22:20 PM by connie_rider »

Offline maxtog

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #90 on: August 05, 2017, 01:02:42 PM »
 :goodpost:

+1
Shoodaben (was Guhl) Mountain Runner ECU flash, Canyon Cages front/rear, Helibars risers, Phil's wedges, Grip Puppies, Sargent World seat-low & heated & pod, Muzzy lowering links, Soupy's stand, Nautilus air horn, Admore lightbar, Ronnie's highway pegs, front running lights, all LED, helmet locks, RAM Xgrip, Sena SMH10, Throttle Tamer, MRA X-Creen, BearingUp Shifter, PR4-GT, Scorpion EXO-T1200,etc

Offline MAXPWR

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #91 on: August 10, 2017, 08:47:51 PM »
I finished installing the T-REX drop links and shorter side stand. Both were nicely made.
I then loosened fork clamps and dropped the front (fork tubes sticking thru the mounts 1").
All went pretty smooth and I found it easy to access the lower fork bolts by removing the panel (4 plastic rivets) just above the horn.
Bottom line for me was to measure the total, overall drop I'll ever do to this bike. The stock seat height, using a 4' level, and the bike stood straight up was 32 and 1/16". After I installed the Sargent Low seat, links, and dropped the front, the new seat height measurement was right on 30". I took it for a ride and I could tell the handling is a little better...which is already awesome ('specially compared to my VMAX lol) I'm sure this will help me from accidentally dropping bike the way I did again.
Thanks maxtog for your original post regarding lowering the C14, as well other contributors of this forum.





Offline connie_rider

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #92 on: August 10, 2017, 09:24:41 PM »
Don't forget to set your spring sag.

Ride safe, Ted

Offline MAXPWR

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #93 on: August 10, 2017, 09:44:13 PM »
oops! I overlooked that from your previous post connie-rider, thank you for the reminder. What is that and how is it done? I never touched the suspension adjustments.

Offline maxtog

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #94 on: August 10, 2017, 09:56:51 PM »
I then loosened fork clamps and dropped the front (fork tubes sticking thru the mounts 1").

Having the fork tubes rise 1" does not lower the front by 1".  Remember, the forks are at an angle, so it will require more than 1" to lower 1"; basic geometry, ya know.

Quote
Bottom line for me was to measure the total, overall drop I'll ever do to this bike.

Some of us were hoping you would do proper measurements on the rear axle before/after so we would know exactly how much the T-REX links actually drop the rear (to help future purchasers)....  Shame on you?  You need to know that measurement, anyway, so you can properly lower the front by the same amount...

Quote
Thanks maxtog for your original post regarding lowering the C14

That is what we are here for, to share info and help each other!  Well, at least I hope MOST of us are here for that :)
Shoodaben (was Guhl) Mountain Runner ECU flash, Canyon Cages front/rear, Helibars risers, Phil's wedges, Grip Puppies, Sargent World seat-low & heated & pod, Muzzy lowering links, Soupy's stand, Nautilus air horn, Admore lightbar, Ronnie's highway pegs, front running lights, all LED, helmet locks, RAM Xgrip, Sena SMH10, Throttle Tamer, MRA X-Creen, BearingUp Shifter, PR4-GT, Scorpion EXO-T1200,etc

Offline connie_rider

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #95 on: August 11, 2017, 05:49:46 PM »
oops! I overlooked that from your previous post connie-rider, thank you for the reminder. What is that and how is it done? I never touched the suspension adjustments.

If you never did it, the change is not important.
But, if you never set your suspension, it needs to be done.
I don't have the info handy. Will try to find it.
Or hopefully someone will post a shortcut to the discussion here.

Until then; Go to You Tube and research "Setting Suspension".

Ride safe, Ted

Here is a lot I found on this Forum.
Happy reading.


Help with suspension settings http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=4480.0
C14 suspension setup http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=2027.0
Setting up your suspension http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=7802.0
Suspension for the completely stupid  http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=14869.0
Suspension advice http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=13297.0
Setting suspension http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=13139.0


I went to you Tube when I did mine and watched several video's. Pretty simple to do after that.
I am NOT saying I got it perfect. But it sure feels better.

Ride safe, Ted


« Last Edit: August 12, 2017, 09:12:13 AM by connie_rider »

Offline MAXPWR

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #96 on: August 12, 2017, 06:36:58 AM »
Thanks Ted, I watched a few good vids on YouTube and will do this soon.

Offline TAL2013C14

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #97 on: August 31, 2017, 06:54:10 PM »
Great reads folks.
You all have convinced me to purchase T-Rex lowering links & adjustable kickstand, and Murphs' bar risers.
I watched a few YouTube videos, and the links and lowering the forks looks pretty straightforward.

Wish me luck! :)

Offline TAL2013C14

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #98 on: September 11, 2017, 09:40:10 PM »
Great reads folks.
You all have convinced me to purchase T-Rex lowering links & adjustable kickstand, and Murphs' bar risers.
I watched a few YouTube videos, and the links and lowering the forks looks pretty straightforward.

Wish me luck! :)

Update...
I installed the T-Rex lowering linkage & adjustable kickstand, and Murphs' bar risers.
Overall, the job went smooth.
The T-Rex links lowered the rear about 1-1/8" or so. And I slid the fork tubes up 1-1/4".
I went from balls of my feet, to flat footed.
Next step is to set up the suspension.

Offline maxtog

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #99 on: August 05, 2018, 08:45:07 PM »
Quick questions for anyone that has lowered their C14.  (Or not lowered for that matter.)  Have you ever hit your lower fairing on anything since you lowered your bike?  Like for instance, a speed bump.

No, but that is because I lowered safely, which is 1".  Anything more than 1" is risky.  1.5" is what I believe might be the absolute maximum, but I have no evidence that is safe, so I will not recommend anything more than 1".
Shoodaben (was Guhl) Mountain Runner ECU flash, Canyon Cages front/rear, Helibars risers, Phil's wedges, Grip Puppies, Sargent World seat-low & heated & pod, Muzzy lowering links, Soupy's stand, Nautilus air horn, Admore lightbar, Ronnie's highway pegs, front running lights, all LED, helmet locks, RAM Xgrip, Sena SMH10, Throttle Tamer, MRA X-Creen, BearingUp Shifter, PR4-GT, Scorpion EXO-T1200,etc